Hello everyone! Things are drying out and I’m getting pretty serious about building a dream shop. It will be 40x60x12 with two 16x8-10’ overhead doors , metal roofing and vinyl siding. My main concern is the best style of foundation . Monolithic or stem wall. I like the idea of digging my footing setting rebar, mesh plastic and so on then pouring all at one time. I live in southern Illinois with frost line around 18-20”. I’m not a block layer, so if I went with stem wall I would have to pay to have that part done . I was also thinking about using attic trusses. I love the idea of more room, but it will change my roof pitch from a 4-5/12 pitch to 8/12. This would make it harder to roof. The garage will have a bathroom too. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. There is a lot of experience on this site. I hope to get a lot of advice to hopefully degrease regret later. Thanks!!
Advice with diy 40x60x12 garage
- Thread starter Jared1982
- Start date
My advice as a builder and what I will do on my own personal shop. It will be a thickened edge monolithic pour. I will also be doing icf walls.
Are you doing vinyl just for cost? Or to match existing?
Attic trusses are nice. Makes for insulating and sealing up a little more difficult. I personally will stick with normal truss as my main concern will be heating costs and comfort inside the shop. I also have a fair sized storage shed as well. I’m sick of mixing household items and junk that my wife wants in my shop lol
tomroblee
Well-known member
If you are thinking of attic trusses, spend a LOT of time choosing your trusses. My rural home has a 36' x 64' footprint and is built with 12/12 pitch attic trusses. The floors have more "bounce" than I would like. You may want/need a "truss" bottom cord.
Consider how you are going to insulate and vent the second floor, then make sure your trusses provide adequate room for installing the insulation.
Plan your stairway carefully. It will be less pleasant to use your second floor if you have narrow, steep stairs----especially as you get older.
Consider putting a half bath on the second floor.
Consider how you are going to insulate and vent the second floor, then make sure your trusses provide adequate room for installing the insulation.
Plan your stairway carefully. It will be less pleasant to use your second floor if you have narrow, steep stairs----especially as you get older.
Consider putting a half bath on the second floor.
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ConCretin
Well-known member
For a detached structure a monolithic slab should be more cost effective and support your structure just fine. Make sure you start with a well compacted granular base.
The primary reason for stem walls i.e. frost walls is to prevent movement from freezing/expanding soils. You can let your mono-slab 'float' or if you want to protect the structure from frost, lay rigid insulation under the slab and extend it out a few feet under the soil.
You could always place a concrete curb wall on top to lift your structure up a bit. When I did mine, I built a 24" perimeter form and after I placed the slab, I stood up a 12" inside form and placed the curb wall. Makes for a strong structure.
The primary reason for stem walls i.e. frost walls is to prevent movement from freezing/expanding soils. You can let your mono-slab 'float' or if you want to protect the structure from frost, lay rigid insulation under the slab and extend it out a few feet under the soil.
You could always place a concrete curb wall on top to lift your structure up a bit. When I did mine, I built a 24" perimeter form and after I placed the slab, I stood up a 12" inside form and placed the curb wall. Makes for a strong structure.
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That is a good sized slab.
If you haven't done it before, hire it out.
It is harder than it looks
And any mistakes are cast in concrete.
Go with at least one row of block around the edges for water resistance.
(I went with 3 rows for a 10 foot eve with 8 foot stick walls.)
6 rows will give you a 4 foot base wall for your 12 foot eve with 8 foot stick walls.
It should not be too bad a cost to hire it out since it needs no scaffolding.
You can side over the block if the look is a concern.
If you haven't done it before, hire it out.
It is harder than it looks
And any mistakes are cast in concrete.
Go with at least one row of block around the edges for water resistance.
(I went with 3 rows for a 10 foot eve with 8 foot stick walls.)
6 rows will give you a 4 foot base wall for your 12 foot eve with 8 foot stick walls.
It should not be too bad a cost to hire it out since it needs no scaffolding.
You can side over the block if the look is a concern.