Advisable to Use HardiPlank Or Equivalent for Wall Bottom?

[StrongEagle]

1956 garage construction. Currently mostly open 2 x 4's in garage. Wall height (from concrete footer) is 100.5 inches - 8 ft, 4.5 inches. The walls have a single 2 x 4 footer and double 2 x 4 headers.

My garage flooded to a depth of about six inches during Hurricane Harvey. I want to sheetrock the interior, and, given the kinds of downpours we have had over the last three years in Houston, I fully expect my garage to flood in the future.

Six inches of water is enough to wet the bottom one to two inches of sheetrock. Therefore, I have been considering putting a strip of hardiplank or hardipanel along the bottom, six to eight inches deep so that the sheetrock won't be destroyed by the water.

I've also been toying with the idea of hinging this bottom portion so that if flooding does occur, I can simply lift and prop up the hardiplank to let things dry out and spray for mold.

Has anyone done something similar? Is this realistic? Are there other options?

And finally, given that my walls are 8' 4.5" header to footer, what's the best way to apply sheetrock? Use 4' x 8' sheets and cut strips? By 9' sheets?

TIA

 

[vtcat]

Maybe 1x? pressure treated?

 

[Aaron_W]

Hardiboard tends to be thinner than sheet rock in my experience. I'm sure there are ways to mitigate that, but it would add to your work.

For someone in a flood prone area it doesn't sound like an unreasonable plan. As you are hardly in a unique situation I'm sure there must be some sort of go to way to prepare for that.

Around here we have some areas along the rivers that flood every 10 years or so, but it seems like the solution there is to build on raised foundations.

 

[Lelandwelds]

You have put some thought into this.

Why not two feet of panel on the bottom that simply unscrews? Trim top and bottom with PVC 4x8x 3/4" ripped into strips.

I have an uncle in law whose place floods annually. Cinder block. French cleat. Acid stained floors. When it starts raining in the right place, he starts moving everything upstairs. Cabinets, furniture, everthing. Quick pressure wash, some disinfectant, and bring down the fans.

He has refined his system through lots of practice. The government hates him and his place.

 

[Drycreek]

Saw one that used pressure treated plywood 2 ft wide and hinged in side and outside. The guy let the plywood dry (pressure treated can be wet from the lumber yard) and sanded it down sealed and painted it a different color than the rest of his walls. This was in Louisiana along the Ms River and was a large farm shop. They had nothing in the way of the lower walls that weren’t on rollers (got flooded at least once a year).

 

[ddawg16]

They make 1/2" Hardibacker (cement board).

You can paint it....the **** is pretty tough. But I would screw it. If you only have to worry about a flood every 4-6 years, screws would be best.

And.....it would let the bottom plate dry out faster.....

I think it's a good idea....

 

[dirtbikingdad]

I'm building 9' stud walls in my pole barn and have sheathed with them thin plywood. I plan to use galvenized tin on the bottom to make up the difference. Should add some style and be replaceable. But not too resilient...

 

[sreeb]

I would just leave the bottom 18" open. I have so much **** piled along my walls that no one would ever notice anyway.

 

[lakeroadster]

We used composite decking along the bottom of the walls in our attached garage due to it's ability to stand up to moisture. Might work for you too.

You also might want to apply a liberal amount of Rust-Oleum Coppercoat Wood Preservative to the existing studs and sill plate.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would think no matter what you would want it to be removable after it floods so you can dry it out good. Keeping it sealed would retain moisture and that would rot the internal timbers and cause mold...

 

[KenC]

I second the PVC trim idea. Lighter, doesn't soak up water, _(Hardie is sorta like a sponge) and resists mold. Attach with rust resistant screws.

 

[DFB]

I would rock the walls two horizontal pieces and make up the difference at the bottom with baseboard of AZEC type lumber and not tight to the floor either

Don't over think it

 

[theoldwizard1]

I second the PVC trim idea. Lighter, doesn't soak up water, and resists mold. Attach with rust resistant screws.

Third. Not cheap.

 

[2gslse]

Why not use metal panels with perforations in them? They wont rot or hold moisture and will allow the wall to dry behind it.

 

[jbwilkins]

Keep in mind that the studs will 'wick' water.....Actually draw water up well above the level of the flood level if they 'soak' any time during your 'flooding'.......so you may want even more height on you're protection you're installing.....

 

[Skiff Builder]

I’d think about a nice #1 2x10 or 12. Either Doug Fir or treated. Hinges at top. Yes it’s thicker than your drywall but will act as a nice base/ kickboard. Water won’t hurt either species and you save money over the PVC, which can get beat up if you have a “working” garage.

 

[CraigStu]

W/ jbwilkins thought that water will wick up the studs how about something like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...VC-Fascia-3-Piece-per-Box-827002000/205448750
I would install w/ the minimum number of SS screws so it's easy to remove for drying.

 

[dave_dj1]

James Hardi siding is known to fail when exposed to wet conditions IE: too close to the ground or snow sits up against it all winter. It has it's place but damp wet environment is not it.