Advise on building weld/fab table using 1" plate

[sberry]

You are really getting to it here. Its something to ask yourself with some clarity,,, do I need a 5x10 table? I have over 6 K shop,,, don't have one. Personally would cut 42 inches or 4 ft off and make a 5 ft long unit and put a cut hopper on the end, the whole thing could be designed differently and so much more economical and useful.
Make a jig and guide, practice the set up a little and cut it with a torch. Good time to get a new tip. Grind a little scale off first and preheat some.

 

[Razorhunter]

Yeah, I know what you mean, and although I could probably pull it off if absolutely necessary, I still doubt I'll be freehanding it with a torch. Even with a guide clamped to the plate, I just don't know how thst would end up, and this is not a risk I feel I should take.

 

[sberry]

As I mention,,, I worked from a lot of benches,,,, lots of them. Not 1 or 2 or the pet one I built but whole truck load of them. I know a guy wants to unload a platen type he got a gleam in his eye over at an auction,, found out it was a pain and he has a real fab shop, got the crane to prove it etc. No one wants to pay for what he has in to it. 6 ft of that plate might sell. The whole underside at a smaller scale can be redesigned and make it even more useful and practical.

 

[sberry]

Even with a guide clamped to the plate, I just don't know how thst would end up, and this is not a risk I feel I should take.

2 things here. 1,,, its not a space shuttle and "risk" is a subjective term here,,,, it could always be trimmed and would even be manageable to move in a pickup truck. Only one side need to be ground.
2nd,,,, something I didn't outright say at the beginning of this thread before the fuggin pile on with the "you go girl posts" is someone that knew what they were doing,,, that needed this monster would be way ahead of this game vs basically having this dumped in the driveway. I get some threads wrong on occasion but been at forums long enough to have a decent guess as to where this is at.
Not to sound mean but,,,, you don't know what you are doing but decide you need all these features, need a 1 1/8 plate cause you wont be happy etc just screams this,,, ant them drool over every feature seen on the internet,,,, most of which have very narrow application and while the owners may love them don't add up to squat if I was paying men to do this.
This isn't a stab at you but to encourage practical advice,,, to match the practical needs of a guy asking a question he doesn't have the experience to make decision.

 

[sberry]

I don't even like a plate that thick. Have used welding benches from 1/4 to 6 inches which was purdy but near worthless and built by someone spending others money who really didn't know squat. I went down to my neighbors yesterday to have something machined. I thought of this thread when I looked at his welding bench. piece of 3/4 plate, 12x18 inches on a post or a stand, its nice and flat with a hole or 2. Man is an absolute master mechanic fabricator welder. Could have it perfect,,, has it simple.
I see a couple on here,,, in general shops where a young sprout really cant afford it save up money from week to week to buy materials and build a deal that is complicated and **** ugly. We have all made this same mistake but he really get a dis service from some forums for not encouraging a practical version he would really get some use from.
Probably kept him out of the tavern but this will be a pain in the *** to work from,,, in 10 yrs will look back and realize,,,, wtf. The things I harp on in the forums are not stuff I am particularly proud of but where I have substantial experience and hindsight. 20 yrs later,,, would I do this again? I understand its the "best" but would I buy this welder,,, machine,,, build this thing again,,, how much did it really make me,,, how much did I use it or even outright abandon it?
Had a guy here recently cut a monster in half,,, might have used it early on but found it was too big.

 

[sberry]

Do you want something you can afford,,, use, manage if humanly possible? This would all be different and probably not even get a comment from me if a guy says my Bud drop off the rollback to my forklift, to the saw, to my machine shop an guy like a couple here, the cost a minor factor even but could make this a 1 cut job, sell the rest. Could get a start with a half a stick of tube or even pipe legs but if I gonna buy its tube for it and 10 ga so again, heavy is ok if it was free or salvage but with a thick top would weld posts to a 4x5 with 4 inch from the corners and a foot from the end 4 inches in on the other. Push or pull with the legs to straighten some as needed and weld in angle shelf bracing. When the top is thinner then the bracing needs go up and I like angle as good or better than tube, stitch weld it some a couple places and at both sides of the post. Narrower are really setting an H from angle on and plates as light as 1/4 often sufficient without end cross brace.
I need a drawing program but it adds complexity to build too light or too heavy. He lives here now might move and then count on a wrecker bill to move it again. He aint a machine shop owner, doubt he is building nascars and even then I think a couple of them guys have jigs.
**** with inch could make the fundamentals in 8 pieces torch or chop saw cut. You could cut the top with a big chop saw and even a sawzall in an hour or 2 of fukkin off and a couple blades. Lighhter top might take 2 more pieces depending on length.
Even a small piece is heavy. If I didn't have means to move it might add 2 steel wheels to one end move the other with a floor jack.

 

[sberry]

Should have pics of work benches in scrap yards. I saw some with 2 beams between 2 pipes. All square cuts. Beam post beam stiffner is the best, seen some shop made in shipyard. Cut simple square cut pieces. Big band cut beam drops.
I gave one of the production run benches to my mechanic bud, used it daily for 30 yrs fixing cars.
From a practical standpoint a 1/4 and up to 1/2 is a lot easier to do and can simply be done with a battery drill that modification is simple. I clamp along the edges, along the end, rest of the stuff in a vise and cant even recall the last time had to do anything I couldn't rig up with simple clamps.
With lots of factory design it cut at fancy angles but one reason for hand jobs is the fabricator is the designer and can make it easier on occasion. I saw one a while back, had 200 pieces and weeks work for same thing coulda been professional design and morning chore. One size material on some benches. I saw one had 1/2 plate and rest 4x4 angle, 2 sticks, 40 ft

 

[dr_clyde]

Hey guys,
A couple of you mentioned cutting the big 5'x10'x1" thick top.
This is actually something I've been struggling with somewhat.
I would love to have this full 5x10' table, but truthfully it is going to be a bit large, and take up more space than I really need it to.
Yes, I've considered selling it, and buying a smaller plate, but honestly thats a hassle, not a ton of buyers, and still not even sure how I'd make out financially speaking.
SO, I had considered cutting it down to something like a 4x8 or 5x8, or even 5x5 all along. However, I dont have easy access to a track torch and I would have to pay at least $100 (times two) for my rollback tow truck buddy to haul it somewhere to get it cut, not to mention the cutting fee.
I had also considered fabbing up some kind of 7" angle grinder "track/guide" and just cutting it slowly with a big 7" angle grinder. A hassle, yes, but possible I feel.
How would you guys go about cutting it? At this time I am still planning to leave it 5x10 and just deal with the monstrosity, but if I had an easy means to cut it I may still consider.
5x10 is going to kill me on shop space, but I dont plan on being here forever and damn if a 5x10 wouldn't be a sweet table. I could definitely make use of it when building some of these driveway swing gates we do. Still kinda torn, but irregardless, I would still like to have options to cut this plate if I decide to go that route. Interested in what you all have to say about cutting methods. Keep in mind I do not wish to pay a ton of money to pay to move it, then have it cut, then move it again. I would love it if someone told me they've successfully used a cutting wheel and some sort of guide/track to do this. Yes, I know it would be one hell of a cutx but doable, no? Or am I insane for even considering?

I have never, ever regretted a big table.

I have 3 tables in my shop. A 48" x 120", a 60" x 96" and a 36" x 48".


It all boils down to what you want, how much space you have, and how much work you are wanting to do.

I personally would just leave it big for now. Make a nice base for it, and use it. If it becomes unwieldy or you find you don't like the size, sell it and make another one.

Steel is cheap.

If you really think it won't fit as one big table, consider two smaller tables. The ability to split and re-configure around the shop is pretty valuable. Make them adjustable and able to join together easily when you need a big surface, and have them apart when you don't.

I currently have the two big tables aligned and leveled with each other, as we are building some 12' diameter weldments and having the big tables aligned to make an extra large table is a huge plus.

Yes, its a bit different in a commercial shop vs a home shop, but the principle scales. I have a small shop with lots going on, and we manage to kick out some pretty big and complex weldments with only 2k square feet. Two guys working full time in here, and we only start to feel cramped when we get 3 or 4 customers all wanting things at once.

 

[sqznby]

Wow, a 5' x 10' x 1" plate, for next to nothing. I consider that the score of the century

If possible, keep it 5x10 unless space is really the deciding factor.

This may be a far reach but back in the day we used to carry a slugger skill saw for random cuts on beams, road plates and other misc. metals. 1" may be it cutting it close but, slow and steady, I think it could be done and cleanly too. Clamp guides on both sides so you cant wonder and run some wax on them for easy sliding.

But, I think once you do cut it, you will regret it.

 

[bad_idea]

I would cut it into 5 pieces: (2) 2.5'x5', (1) 4'x5', (1) 1'x5'. Make two smaller benches to go along the wall 2.5'x5', one weld table 4'x5', and throw the strip of steel into the junk pile for another day. My weld table in my 30'x40' home shop is 30"x48". I have built plenty of projects on it. Cut it with a torch and a piece of angle iron clamped to the plate as a guide. If you don't have a torch, buy one - definitely worth having. Get the torch dialed in on the drop section - cutting straight with minimal slag.

Marctrees hit the nail on the head - what level of flatness are you looking for? A 1/16th out over 5' is plenty for most any fabricator. It's just not worth worrying any tighter than that for a weld table.

 

[Razorhunter]

Yeah guys, like I said, I am torn on whether to cut it or not, and quite frankly, I would never consider cutting it if my shop was bigger. Regardless of whether or not I cut it, ultimately I still want as big a table as possible. I do know from many past experiences that I want this table as big as possible. NO sberry, it is not for the coolness factor. I had a bit of trouble understanding your posts, but I do believe I gather that you think I should cut it. (I THINK?)
Anyhow, I was just looking for ideas and to promote conversation regarding the subject.
Most likely, I will buy a few hundred dollars worth of steel/framing material and build this puppy up into a nice 5x10 that could always be cut down later if so desired.

 

[Marctrees]

Project size dictates table size.

The smaller the table the sooner you will be working on your knees on the floor jigging off of your relatively uneven concrete slab.

But it is also true the bigger the table the more walking around you wil do... but even worse... possibly further reaching across w the table edge digging into your belly.

All compromises.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

If you had a biz doing stair railings your table would be 4 x 12.

If you made go kart frames would be like 4x5.

Trailer hitches 2 or 3 x 5.

IMO. YMMV.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

If you do cut it... it is critical you cut at an accurate 90, and the smoother the better, because you will typically be often measure referencing from edge.. distance, and for square or parallel, angles etc.

So, just my opinion... unless you have better options... I would clamp a well chosen straightedge very accurately and make multiple shallow passes w an abrasive blade in a circular saw.

Some will laugh, I have done up to 3/4" w that.

Obviously a pro steel fab shop would never do that, use other methods, but I worked w what I have.

Produces a very very clean cut.

Very minimal cleanup if you apply thinking to the job.

You may use 10 $5 discs and kill an old saw w filings, and it may take an afternoon, but the edge will be nice.

Marc

 

[sberry]

I do know from many past experiences that I want this table as big as possible. NO sberry, it is not for the coolness factor. I had a bit of trouble understanding your posts, but I do believe I gather that you think I should cut it. (I THINK?)

Nothing to do with coolness,,, just to get it to a manageable workable size.

I will buy a few hundred dollars worth of steel/framing material and build this puppy up

I could get all this in 2 pieces, all in square cuts. I havnt bought new lately but could get it in 150$ on a modest size bench.

I do know from many past experiences

I am always curious as to what the future use is intended and what past experience led to this conclusion.

 

[sberry]

The smaller the table the sooner you will be working on your knees on the floor jigging off of your relatively uneven concrete slab.

I very rarely work on the floor and most stuff too big for the bench would be too big for a big bench. I would rig it up on occasion but my floor is decent and the last real large fab we set on jackstands. 6 or 7 20 ft trailers plus tongues.
This thing didn't require a massive bench, was nice to have enough room to wheel the picker in.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'm in the camp that says make it as flat as possible. I've never wanted an uneven table, but there's been many times I wish mine was flatter. I understand why some members don't care about flatness, but it doesn't cost much more or take much more time to make a really nice table. A nice table is more versatile and faster to work on.

As far as size goes, it really depends on what you work on. My table is tiny (2x3), but I primarily weld smaller items. If I had more space I'd probably go with a 4x8 for building chassis and larger items. Right now, I'm working on a go kart for my daughter and I really wish my table was a 3x4. The other factor to consider is what kind of welding you will be doing. I've been to some shops where they stand on their table while welding, and others where they primarily sit. As with most things in life, bigger is typically better if you have the space for it.

 

[Razorhunter]

Well sberry, as for future/intended use, this table will be a general shop use table for anything and everything that requires a large welding surface of course. Currently, as stated earlier, we are doing very large driveway entry gates. One we recently landed, is almost 11' tall, and I don't recall the width at the moment. Its abnormally tall, due to something about tractor trailer/big rigs coming and going to a business. I didn't sell this particular job, so I've not got further details yet, but honestly, most average sized driveway gates we do are pretty wide and this table would be of great value with all gate jobs we do.
As for past experiences that led to a desire for larger welding table surface, well take your pick. Asode from the driveway gates, most recently, I laid out an 8'ish long set of ramps, designed to help load/unload equipment off my flatbed truck. This was yet another job that had to either be done off the concrete floor, or with two smaller tables, or it was left hanging out in midair, all of which are doable, but all of which would have benefitted from a larger table.
I've gotten by for years with less-than-ideal equipment, and sometimes its no big deal, and of course, at times, it can be a major PIA.
Thanks so much for all your input sberry. I appreciate yours and everyone elses comments.

 

[sberry]

I did miss that you were doing gates and ornamental.

 

[dr_clyde]

I would absolutely not cut it if you’re doing handrails and gates. You really, really need a large flat surface for that kind of work.

 

[BukitCase]

For what you're doing, I'd knock a wall out before I cut that plate down (only HALF kidding) ... Steve

 

[bimmer1980]

Just curious.... What height are you guys running for welding tables?

I think mine is currently about 43" tall..... I'm 6'3" tall... Seems to be a nice height for me.

 

[dr_clyde]

34-1/2” tall with adjustable feet.

It’s low enough for heavy work and high enough to sit at.

I’m 6’3”. If all I did was light small things I’d have it a few inches taller.

 

[sberry]

For general fab make a fist and reach down so knuckles just touch it. This lets a guy pick up a soapstone or tape without much bending. I am a little shorter than doc,,, 6 ft and mine is 33. His 34 1/2 is good for him. These measurements make it decent for others too.

 

[tarbellb]

Keep it BIG and make it FLAT, you will likely never regret that.