Advise on fitting

[BurtEggley]

Replacing siding on shed. Had to pull wiring to panel. Thickness of new siding is probably 7/16". The way I had it was 3/4 PVC conduit came out of ground, glued a male thread fitting on, into a 3/4 LB conduit body that protruded thru siding to inside. Inside a 90 degree coupling for flex conduit screwed into it and the conduit proceeded to the panel. The LB mounted to the shed siding with a screw hole drilled thru it and everything caulked.

Taking it apart, the 3/4 plastic male shattered, and the screw holding it was loose. My electrician friend always tells me that a Bell Box is a better solution for this than an LB so I wanted to change out the LB to a Bell box. I also planned to add a length of watertight flex conduit to the end of the PVC so as the shed shifts over time, I don't get the PVC riser stressing. The shed floats on a concrete pad.

Here is my problem. The Bell box would be flush with the outside of the siding. The 90 degree coupling to flex conduit on the inside is not deep enough to go thru the siding and screw into the Bell box. I thought someone must make a fitting that would screw into the Bell box and pass thru the siding where the 90 degree fitting would fit into it. Basically a 3/4" male to female about 3/4" to an 1" long. Can't find anything like that. The closest I could come is a watertight rigid conduit hub but it so bulky it will require a pretty large hole. Is there such a fitting or should I go back to the LB conduit body?

Attached is an image of the only thing I could find that might work. What I wanted was a ****** with a male thread on one end and a female on the other, or a 90 degree flex coupling with a female and a ****** to replace the one I have. Also attached.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Will two of those back to back work for you?
edit: I see you were trying to avoid enlarging the hole. Never mind.

 

[mm08822]

Close ****** or 1" ****** and a coupling. Screw 90 degree flex connector into coupling.

 

[BurtEggley]

Thank you. I considered that but it moves the fitting farther out from the wall on the inside instead of being flush. I may do that though. The male to male would bring it into the other side, and the length of the female would extend that about 1 1/2" on the inside of the shed, add the elbow turning to flexible conduit and it would be 2" off the wall. Before with the LB it was almost flush. I was hoping someone knew of a shorter male to female coupling or equal that would keep the elbow closer to the wall, and that I was just missing it in searching for one. The published bend radius on FMC is 4" so running it straight in is even worse. Below are what seem to be the solutions.

 

[BurtEggley]

I'll just use a new LB. It is the simplest solution.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its frustrating when you can't find "what you want the way you want it" and can't make your own solution.

I can commiserate with you!

 

[mm08822]

cut down the coupling and/or chase ******.

 

[BurtEggley]

Each side has its own threads with a stop in the middle. I don't have that size die for the connector, or a tap for the ****** and the cost is prohibitive. I'll just use a new LB. The original worked for 25 years until the shed siding rotted from old age. My goal was to appease my electrician who prefers bell boxes. I try to use his skills when I can. That way no one at the city or insurance company can tell me something was DIY and not to code. They are getting a bit bizarre these days anyway. They tell one neighbor they HAVE to do something one way, then the next inspector tells another neighbor who does it the same way that was the wrong way and they go with something else. It all changed when the old timer inspectors retired out during covid.

 

[mm08822]

A 4" grinder with a cutoff disc followed by a wire wheeling and it's good.

 

[BurtEggley]

A 4" grinder with a cutoff disc followed by a wire wheeling and it's good.

how does that rethread a fitting? I am seeing that the same as cutting most of the threads off a bolt with a long shoulder to shorten it. The middle of each fitting has a non threaded area. That would be cutting off the threads on either end wouldn't it?

 

[mm08822]

Couplings are straight threaded through. Still going to thread the same if the coupling is 2" long or only 1.5" long.

 

[BurtEggley]

Resolved, all electrical reconnected and functional. This was the easiest path. Ground rod wire will be caulked in a few minutes. Thank you too all who made suggestions.