To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Affordable, Accurate method to cut steel?

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,593
Location
VT
Just won a NIB Lincoln MIG on eBay by accident (threw a bid out for the hell of it, it stuck) so figured now is a good time to stop lurking.

I've got some accessories to purchase, so not much $$ available for cutting tools. Has anyone used a 12" woodworking miter saw with an abrasive blade?

Not sure I want to beat up my nice compound setup, but I frequently see used makita's on CL for $50.

As far as 3/16" plate goes, anything better then a grinder, cutoff wheel and patience?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
P

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,593
Location
VT

JoeFin

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
717
Location
NorCal - where the Rednecks Race
OP
P

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,593
Location
VT
First the Horizontal Saw will burn up the motor, then after you replace the roller bearings will start to cut straight, and almost immediately you realize not to buy blades from Happy Fart

Way ahead of you there, wouldn't ever think of buying anything like that from HF.
 

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,600
Location
Colorado
Just won a NIB Lincoln MIG on eBay by accident (threw a bid out for the hell of it, it stuck) so figured now is a good time to stop lurking.

I've got some accessories to purchase, so not much $$ available for cutting tools. Has anyone used a 12" woodworking miter saw with an abrasive blade?

Not sure I want to beat up my nice compound setup, but I frequently see used makita's on CL for $50.

As far as 3/16" plate goes, anything better then a grinder, cutoff wheel and patience?

Miter saws have plastic components all over the place. The act of using an abrasive wheel in it will destroy it. I think there's an RPM difference too. Cop saw spins slower IIRC.

Affordable and "cut steel" don't really belong in the same sentence with plate. Every cutting method has its drawbacks. Angle and rectangle/square tube is a slightly different story - bandsaw, sawzall, or chop saw. Thicker makes the chop saw less desirable and leans you more toward the bandsaw. You can do some interesting things with a sawzall up to 3/16 but doing it with no experience/guidance may not be a great idea. Bandsaw is the same but the throat depth can make some cuts impossible. All three leave a nice edge that requires little to no cleanup.

There are metal circular saws that work great for longer straight cuts but aren't cheap. Edge requires no cleanup...almost a machined edge.

ary5u3en.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M8R9X2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A heavier duty version for thicker cuts

6y8ahave.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WUQI4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The real ticket would be to find a radial arm saw, ditch the saw, and mount the above saw in it. It would change the game for most.

An acetylene torch setup can be had for cheap but you'll need practice to get good cuts and you'll spend a lot of time cleaning/grinding the edge.

Plasma cutters really shine but don't fit into the low budget categories unless you can find a guy who's needing a few bucks and damn near gives it to you. Believe it or not, it happens all the time around here. You've just gotta find the deals/have connections.
 

neonnblack

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
4,913
Location
Reno, NV
First the Horizontal Saw will burn up the motor, then after you replace the roller bearings will start to cut straight, and almost immediately you realize not to buy blades from Happy Fart

Get a good 14" Chop Saw off CL or bite the bullet and buy 1 new

probably never even used one, and just jumping on the bash wagon.

Ive ran hundreds of cuts on mine with no issues. I did get a blade from lowes, though. A little tweaking and it cuts fine, smooth and fast.
 

Guster

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
1,543
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Depending on what you plan to do you may find a little 4.5" angle grinder to be quite handy for cutting and grinding. Small enough to use with one hand, usually same motor as the 5" version and the disks are just a little cheaper. Usually a good compromise. If I need to a job away from home I always grab the little grinder and 99% of the time need nothing more. Use thinnest disks for cutting and grinding disks or flap disks for grinding and finishing.

Cutouts, mitering and beveling are sometimes easier done free-hand once you gain confidence. I also have bandsaws, chop saws, plasma etc. and the one I cannot do without is the little angle grinder.
 

PCO6

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
4,573
Location
Newmarket, Ontario
First the Horizontal Saw will burn up the motor, then after you replace the roller bearings will start to cut straight, and almost immediately you realize not to buy blades from Happy Fart

Get a good 14" Chop Saw off CL or bite the bullet and buy 1 new
I've never replaced my bearings. Adjust the bearing cams and the blade will cut straight.
 
Last edited:

Stephenw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
1,911
Location
Utah
I've had my Harbor Freight bandsaw for 15 years now. I've worn out more than a dozen blades and made countless cuts without any problems. I don't use Harbor Freight blades on the saw.

I've had the Harbor Freight metal cutting circular saw for 10 years. I've cut up quite a few pieces of 3/16" and 1/4" plate with the saw and am still using the original blade. For straight cuts, I prefer this saw over my plasma cutter.

Harbor Freight power tools might not be top shelf quality, but they can be very useable.

In case you haven't noticed, almost all power tools are now made in China.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
2,409
Location
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
When I was doing sheet-metal roofing, I used a 40 tooth carbide in my regular old 71/4" circular saw. I also used the same setup to cut up to 3/16" plate. A old worn out melamine blade works good as it has a negative tooth set so you don't lose as many teeth. And don't force the saw to go fast, that leads to losing teeth. Wear leather gloves, long sleeves and eye protection, as little shards of steel will come flying out.
A 4 1/2" grinder is the other tool I used, especially when cutting 1/8" or better. I use 1/16" blades for cutting. I was buying 20 at a time and looking for sales so I could keep costs down.
I've also used my miter saw but as someone else said, the plastics like to catch on fire. If you can remove the plastic it works good enough.
And finally, I just bought my second cheap 4x6 bandsaw, used, for C$80. It came with two $25.00 blades. The first one I bought used for C$100.00. I converted my first one for scrolling type work. I really like the band-saw as I can walk away and do something else while the metal is cutting.

Richard
 

bczygan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Never buy a "make do" tool.

I found a Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw on CL for $110.

You should find something similar for $100-200 or so. You will never regret it.

Then get a disc or belt sander for bumping the edges. I picked up a Kalamazoo for $140.

Beyond that, a good abrasive cutoff saw will do a similar job.

Various types of shears will expand your capabilities.

Mills and drills will allow other working.
 

PCO6

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
4,573
Location
Newmarket, Ontario
... I've had the Harbor Freight metal cutting circular saw for 10 years. I've cut up quite a few pieces of 3/16" and 1/4" plate with the saw and am still using the original blade. For straight cuts, I prefer this saw over my plasma cutter.
I have the Princess Auto equivalent and it's been great. I also generally prefer it to my plasma cutter (better cut) but a PC is good in situations like where I used to use a cutting torch ... general scrapping for example.

View media item 34368
 

383 240z

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
4,295
Location
Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
I've got one of those unusable POS 4x6 Chinese horizontal bandsaws, I picked it up for $40 at a swap meet. After a tune up and a good blade, I use Morse and Starrett from Enco, I love it. I seem to use it everyday, saw things down for either welding or machining projects. Keith
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
There is no one perfect way. For general repair and light fab a bandsaw, a plasma, a chop saw, a Sawzall and a grinder.
seeing how we have none of this make the first a 4 1/2 7750 grinder from Walmart or on sale lately at Menards, Then maybe Sawzall and due to the mess maybe a small bandsaw, a chop is super versatile but very dirty.

I have an HF chop I carry on the truck, really never use it much but for on occasion small piping and conduit. In shop never move this one, it works well enough I havnt made anything bigger.
 

Attachments

  • chop saw pile.JPG
    chop saw pile.JPG
    104.5 KB · Views: 111
Last edited:

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I got my eye on a couple items,, I don't have a hand held steel saw, a portoband and a battery grinder I could use. Its not going to make me any money, I got several ways to do it now so there is nothing stopping me as it is. But the advent of the battery powered recipt saw is great, I am considering getting another.
 

kwb

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
1,781
Location
PNW
I thought the price on the 9" steel saws was very reasonable - cuts are awesome. For many things it is better than plasma.

Just don't cut expanded with it.... turned out to be really expensive 12' of cutting.

I have Plasma, 14" Abrasive, and the 9" steel saw as the first line, then the sawzall, 4.5" grinder, 3" cutoff, pneumatic body saw and O-A round out the options.

If you are doing sheet/plate it commands one type of tool, if you are looking at round/square tube products others are better.

Like all good answers - it depends.
 

loungelizard

New member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
3
Sorry for the ignorance but I'm a no oboe figuring out why tools to buy first. Besides the shards, shavings is there a difference to using an abrasive saw or a toothed blade saw? I know the finishes and heat on the cuts I'll be different but what about what cuts best on plate or I beams or tubing
 

loungelizard

New member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
3
Sorry for the ignorance but I'm a no oboe figuring out why tools to buy first. Besides the shards, shavings is there a difference to using an abrasive saw or a toothed blade saw? I know the finishes and heat on the cuts I'll be different but what about what cuts best on plate or I beams or tubing

I meant noobie sorry damn spellcheck
 

longlivepunk

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
377
Location
Edmonton, AB, Canada
For the love of god, PLEASE do not put an abrasive blade in a wood-saw. Those sparks are hot, there are a lot of them, and plastic is not up to the task. Plus as has been mentioned, there are different rotating speeds. Get yourself an angle-grinder and some assorted wheels (they're cheap if you find them on sale, get some zip-disks (for cutting), grinding wheels, flap-wheels, wire-wheels, etc. They work great for cutting, but are also extremely versatile. The only tool mentioned that you can also use for rough grinding, finish-grinding, polishing, etc. Angle-grinders are amazing. You should have at least 3 when you start working with a lot of metal. If you can only afford two cheap things, an angle-grinder and an OA torch are the two to get. You can do anything if you can spend the time. Have fun!!
 

Mr.N

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2005
Messages
2,229
Location
Mpls, MN
4.5" - 6" angle grinder with 0.40 blades will cut through almost anything you do in the garage.
I've cut up to 1" thick metal, slap on a flap disk and clean it up.
Once you buy one, you wounder how you got along with out it and will soon be buying another... I think some guys here have over 5 angle grinders.
The are better ways, but dollar for dollar this should be your first purchase.

I work with metal at least once a month in my garage.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,342
Location
SE MI

MillerMav

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
269
I'll have to throw a second mention in for the HF/CM 4x6 horizontal band saw. I used a Milwaukee port-a-band with a SWAG kit for a couple years. This summer I found a 4x6 at a garage sale barely used for $80 and its already paid for itself. I am going to spend the winter modding/improving it with a new base, hydraulic pace setter and new vertical table that way it will be awesome. It has become the most valuable piece of equipment in my garage next to my Millermatic 180.
 

buening

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
1,338
Location
Decatur, IL

I have the Rage Evolution 2 saw. Coming from an abrasive chop saw to this, I must say its a pretty decent saw for the price. I think it uses an odd arbor size, so the expensive Rage blades are likely all you will get to fit. I haven't gotten to the point of needing another blade yet.

I started out with an angle grinder and an air cutoff saw. Then bought an abrasive chop saw and didn't like speed of cut, so I bought a Rage Evolution 2 saw. It works great for straight or miter cuts and is fast, but it will not do curved cuts obviously. I looked into the horizontal bandsaw to be used in the vertical position with a fabricated plate as well as the Portaband/Swagoffroad solution, but the depth was pretty limited. I then found a Powermatic 14" 2-speed band saw on ebay for $500 and am very happy with it. Its a bit more than I wanted to spend since the horizontal bandsaw was 1/3 of it, but the quality of the old Powermatic is light years ahead. Another option is to find an old Delta or similar 14" wood band saw and either put a 3ph motor with VFD, jackshaft pulley to slow the RPM down, or maybe even a treadmill motor.
 

Paticus

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
77
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
You will need an angle grinder for grinding and cutting, so if you don't have one already I would start with that.

I used to use abrasive saws solely, but then I picked this up Dayton Horizontal Bandsaw on CL. If you have 100-200 you can find them used. In my opinion an older USA saw is better than a new chinese saw. Even the Grey Horizontal Bandsaws (usually taiwan) are better than the new red ones.

Probably the biggest advantages of a horizontal bandsaw is they are quite, they don't heat up your metal, and the cuts are super clean. My chop saw/angle grinder cuts faster- but it throws sparks and material all over my shop.

IMG_1930_zpsd2416f5c.jpg
[/URL]
 

buening

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
1,338
Location
Decatur, IL
To expand further on my post, I typically use my Rage 2 when I need straight cuts, band saw when a straight cut isn't needed, and an angle grinder or air cutoff on areas where I can't fit the piece into the bandsaw or Rage 2. So basically they each have their own purpose in my shop and my progression hasn't eliminated the need for the basics like the angle grinder with cutoff, it just expands my capability. At a bare minimum, get the angle grinder/air cutoff and either a horizontal or vertical metal cutting band saw....and if you have extra money the Rage 2 is nice to have if you want quick super straight cuts. The horizontal band saw will do this, but at a narrower width.
 

pipsters

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
4,899
Location
USA
I bought a Rage 3. Quick summary:

Pros
  • Cuts are accurate when using some sort of stop to feed in the material
  • On a new blade, cuts are very quick, not like a cutoff saw
  • Blades/metal does not get hot, really just luke warm. Can be handled immediately.
  • Miters seem to be fairly accurate
  • A pro over the Rage 2, the blades are a lot less expensive because they are smaller. There is also an aftermarket blade that you can use called Oslun ($40), that is more specific for cutting metal and can more easily be sharpened.

Cons
  • The blade that comes with the saw is good for light metal cutting and various materials like wood, plastic, aluminum etc. If cutting heavier gauge like 1/8"+, you won't get very many cuts. Something like 20-25 is all I got. It can be sharpened (sort of) using the HF saw blade sharpener, but there is a better metal blade of it (see above).
  • It's a $170-$250 saw (depending on where you get it), not the most expensive or hardily built unit, ie don't think it's the quality of a $500 miter saw
 

Attachments

  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    72.5 KB · Views: 64
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    138.9 KB · Views: 45
  • 9.jpg
    9.jpg
    138 KB · Views: 37

MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,031
Location
NJ
OP needs to define the 'needs' better.

"accurate" as in to within 1", or accurate as in within 1/8", or accurate as in within 0.005" of the desired dimension.

"affordable" as in a hacksaw (~$10), or a grinder and cut-off wheel or recip-saw with blades or jigsaw with blades (~$100, to nearest order of magnitude, with some 'consumables'), or up from there.

Also, has to define what he wants/needs to cut. Material, thickness of material, type of cut(s) and whether just straight cuts or curved cuts or a combination.

And also, some cutting methods are just 'easier' than others. :)

You can cut things with many different tools. So, buy them all. :D CNC plasma table FTW. :D

(but don't use a plastic-part wood-cutting power-miter-saw with an abrasive cut-off disk on metal or use (most any) of those saws with a carbide-tipped steel cutting blade. IMNSHO. Those are the 'wrong' tool for the job. Yes they make carbide-tipped circular saw blades that can cut (and do quite well within the tool and blade limits steel, but RTFM on the specific blade first.

It's actually (to me anyway :D ) kind of unbelievable at first how well a blade (from Freud http://www.diablotools.com/products/product/D0748F or Lenox http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?productId=MetalCuttingCircularSawBlades or Morse, etc , etc) can cut through steel with a 'standard' 5000 rpm handheld circular saw (aka 'Skilsaw'). Straight cut is not quite like cutting through butter, but still quite amazing just slicing through steel with a circ-saw. Hot sharp chips, loud (but still quieter than an abrasive cutter), and a sharp edge on the cut line.

But for general over-all speed and ease, plasma is quite amazing too. :D
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom