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Aftercooler question

mcarroll_nz

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Joined
Aug 30, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Portland, OR
I'm up to the last stage of my shop build - compressor lines. Attached is a pic of my compressor, hiding behind 5 layers of 5/8ths drywall with inlet and outlet fans to manage heat. Does a pretty good job of suppressing the noise - both for me and my neighbors. Still feel the thumping pretty good thru the floor though, even being on rubber isolators.

I'm planning to run type L 1/2 inch copper with sweated joints as well as an aftercooler. I want to start off with a basic install to try to keep costs down - no fan and no water separator. It'll be a Hayden 1260 with a water drop and then uphill copper pipe back to the compressor - no water separator in between.

Anyone have experience and success with this configuration, in terms of keeping water out of the tank? Or is a water separator a crucial part of an aftercooler installation? There will be a filter and separator once it hits the main line so trying to keep costs down.

I would consider fitting a fan now if anyone has a link to a 110V fan that would fit and not too expensive.

Thanks.
 

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cadunkle

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Feb 13, 2011
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NJ
I use a water separator (large Norgren unit w/ auto drain) after a Hayden 1260. With no fan it drops temps around 200*. It does heat soak a bit if running continuously (sand blasting) so a fan would help. In any event, there is a huge amount of water that comes out of the separator between the cooler and tank. I would not run without one as I'd prefer to keep my tank as dry as possible. My tank now doesn't get much water and it's rare to ever get anything out of the coalescing filter or regular filter/separator after the tank.

I'd still like to find a small cheap 220v fan to wire off the pressure switch.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,725
Location
SE Michigan
One can always put a low point in a relatively quiet-flow area (large dia), that will collect a lot of moisture.
 

ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
Messages
2,118
Location
Chicago, IL. USA
I like your installation.

How do you plan to use the compressed air? Is this for tools, bead blasting or painting? How you plan to use the air will help us determine whether your proposed solution will be suitable.

Another note is the size of the enclosure. Do you have enough room in the enclosure to do maintenance? This would be oil changes, filter changes, replace a belt, etc. It looks like the compressor is enclosed on three sides.
 

HotRodHudson

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Nov 18, 2013
Messages
373
I am at a similar point with my compressor & have wasted hours trying to find a decent water separator with auto drain that isn’t crazy expensive & readily available. Suggestions?
 

cadunkle

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Feb 13, 2011
Messages
472
Location
NJ
I run a Norgren filters and regulator. F17-600-A3DA between the cooler and tank. Then from the tank into another F17-600-A3DA with the finer filter media in it, into a F46-601-A0DA coalescing filter. This setup works very well, my air is finally dry after years of suffering with more water than air at times during the humid summers. It would be perfect for my needs if I had a fan on the cooler.

These are expensive components for sure, but I got each for $10-$50 on ebay, NOS. Only the second F17-600-A3DA was used.
 

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cadunkle

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Feb 13, 2011
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NJ
The muffler tube and filter I got from Grainger, IIRC. It quieted it down some, but changed the tone to a lower tone more than it quieted. It's a lot better but not exactly a night and day difference. I'd like to plumb the intake outside. When I do that I may try running it through a car muffler.
 

pcmeiners

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In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
Cadunkle linked to excellent items but if you patients you can get similar for a low price on Ebay. Like Candunkle I paid $10-30 for any of my filters or regulators. I have use the 1260 but prefer the Hayden 1290, then again I paid less then $40 for my 1290s.
 
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smalltown

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Jul 9, 2015
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985
Location
Western Maine
The muffler tube and filter I got from Grainger, IIRC. It quieted it down some, but changed the tone to a lower tone more than it quieted. It's a lot better but not exactly a night and day difference. I'd like to plumb the intake outside. When I do that I may try running it through a car muffler.

Thanks for that info cadunkle
 
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mcarroll_nz

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Portland, OR
Thanks for all the input - much appreciated. I've done yet another full 180 with my approach to airlines. I'm running 50ft of 3/4 L copper to try to cool the air before it hits the separator then forks off around the shop from there. Just waiting on fittings to arrive then I'm into it.

Intended usage is general hobbyist garage duties but I also have a blast cabinet that needs plenty of high quality air and I want to play with powder coating and spray painting.

If I still have moisture issues then I'll add an aftercooler.
 

ob355

Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
16
Thanks for all the input - much appreciated. I've done yet another full 180 with my approach to airlines. I'm running 50ft of 3/4 L copper to try to cool the air before it hits the separator then forks off around the shop from there. Just waiting on fittings to arrive then I'm into it.

Intended usage is general hobbyist garage duties but I also have a blast cabinet that needs plenty of high quality air and I want to play with powder coating and spray painting.

If I still have moisture issues then I'll add an aftercooler.

if you are going with the copper, why use the pipe inside a baseboard heater, it will have cooling fins do dissipate heat faster.
 
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