Age of Anvil
- Thread starter markbd
- Start date
Cleave
Well-known member
Looks like its just getting broken in.
Other than that I can't help much.
Other than that I can't help much.
Oregon Dave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2023
- Messages
- 298
Hello markbd, joined today, first post; Welcome.
Lot of experience, knowledge in a lot of good folks here. Some first time posters are young; therefore maybe not as experienced and knowledgeable; can’t be expected to be - some seem to be of a less ambitious sort; snap a few pictures with a dd/phone & submit a few pics without much additional effort. Please demonstrate you are not in that category; share the results of any research you’ve done to date.
In addition, are there any mold seams, or embossed no.’s on it, any distinctive use markings/patterns; it has nuts on the retaining rods that appear to be hex nuts - do they appear to be factory made, etc.?
It is a very interesting submission and those here who may identify it on sight; some have extensive files & unbelievable research capabilities; some will dig in and help in their own way(s). It is helpful to provide as much info up front as you can; kinda help tote the front end of the load.
Anyway welcome again and I hope you continue on as an active & helpful/sharing member in the spirit that is already here.
Lot of experience, knowledge in a lot of good folks here. Some first time posters are young; therefore maybe not as experienced and knowledgeable; can’t be expected to be - some seem to be of a less ambitious sort; snap a few pictures with a dd/phone & submit a few pics without much additional effort. Please demonstrate you are not in that category; share the results of any research you’ve done to date.
In addition, are there any mold seams, or embossed no.’s on it, any distinctive use markings/patterns; it has nuts on the retaining rods that appear to be hex nuts - do they appear to be factory made, etc.?
It is a very interesting submission and those here who may identify it on sight; some have extensive files & unbelievable research capabilities; some will dig in and help in their own way(s). It is helpful to provide as much info up front as you can; kinda help tote the front end of the load.
Anyway welcome again and I hope you continue on as an active & helpful/sharing member in the spirit that is already here.
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Oregon Dave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2023
- Messages
- 298
The hex nuts; factory or hand-made? Width & length of the base. Height of the anvil. Overall length of the anvil?? Does the wooden base appear to be milled or hand hewn & side dimensions; 10 x 10 was a common barn timber size in the 1800's - lots of things to observe. Picture from overhead to show the hardy or pritchel hole or both. Did you sand blast it or bought/received that way, etc. etc.
There are anvil collectors that hangout on Facebook; might want to send a decent photo presentation that way
There are anvil collectors that hangout on Facebook; might want to send a decent photo presentation that way
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RTM
Well-known member
Or intentionally defaced the logo to prevent ID as a HF product.
Or intentionally defaced the logo to prevent ID as a HF product.
I was referring to the wood base, the threads pressed into the side caught my eye as super out of place, and it looks burnt.
I saw marks on the anvil too. The side looks suspicious. I've never used one, but in every blacksmith video I've seen I can't recall hitting the side that would leave marks like it was shot with a shotgun...
There's a seller around here that gets decent old material and then does a variety of dumb things to "age" them, then add a zero to the price and sells them as home decor.
Hope I'm not exposing the OP or giving him bad news about the $1000 anvil he just bought...
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
There are a few bits of information that you can provide that might help ID your anvil Mark. For example, are there any square holes under the heel or Horn of the anvil? I don't think so from what I can make out from your side shots. a clear end shot under the horn and heel could help. If no handling holes from forging the anvil it is likely cast steel. It doesn't look like cast iron to me. Also when you strike it with a hammer does it ring like a bell resonating or thud or just ding? Cast steel anvils will generally ring for a while unless very tightly anchored.
Also any markings on the feet, where it sits on the block, just above the block on the ends? Some anvils have info stamped or cast in there. What about rebound off the face? Does a steel ball dropped on top bounce back up nearly to the same height as it was dropped from? It is not totally unusual to see peck marks on the sides. There were Smiths who tested punches and other items for hardness on the sides of their anvil that could and mostly would obliterate any markings there. A wire wheeling could expose some partial stampings. Those things could help but only you can do them.
Also any markings on the feet, where it sits on the block, just above the block on the ends? Some anvils have info stamped or cast in there. What about rebound off the face? Does a steel ball dropped on top bounce back up nearly to the same height as it was dropped from? It is not totally unusual to see peck marks on the sides. There were Smiths who tested punches and other items for hardness on the sides of their anvil that could and mostly would obliterate any markings there. A wire wheeling could expose some partial stampings. Those things could help but only you can do them.
Oregon Dave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2023
- Messages
- 298
Hello again markbd; you initially asked for help with age of the anvil, I & now Oregon rock crusher have requested additional information.
From the your left thumbnail photo, the anvil, to me is sitting on a hand-hewn timber, no fake 'distressing'. The timber is meant to be spacer to a larger base, as evidenced by the 'hold-down' irons at the base. The horn appears worn smooth at the hilt; leads me in the direction of smith work on iron rims for wagons, diameter range determined by the distance from the top of the horn to the bottom of the base.
Please measure and report that distance; there should also be 'tell-tale' marks on horn side of the base, please have a look, send us a picture of also if warranted - educates us.
As for age of the anvil; if it was used for iron rims, then it was definitely maybe used before Ford's Model T.
The more information you send, the more effective the group can work with you; begin to bracket the age & believe me, this anvil had nothing to do with any steel shortage.
From the your left thumbnail photo, the anvil, to me is sitting on a hand-hewn timber, no fake 'distressing'. The timber is meant to be spacer to a larger base, as evidenced by the 'hold-down' irons at the base. The horn appears worn smooth at the hilt; leads me in the direction of smith work on iron rims for wagons, diameter range determined by the distance from the top of the horn to the bottom of the base.
Please measure and report that distance; there should also be 'tell-tale' marks on horn side of the base, please have a look, send us a picture of also if warranted - educates us.
As for age of the anvil; if it was used for iron rims, then it was definitely maybe used before Ford's Model T.
The more information you send, the more effective the group can work with you; begin to bracket the age & believe me, this anvil had nothing to do with any steel shortage.
Yes. Bought it out of an old barn nowhere in CT.
That’s an interesting detail. The pitting. IDK what they were fabbing by striking the sides, but could it have been a means of maintaining rhythm? Five taps and a side strike? Or - and this is pure speculation - the smith broke stroke to avoid an orthopedic issue like arthritis or tendinitis from over use. Side strikes would give the prime locomotion a brief rest.
That is a really well-written intro. TY.