Age old question-stick built vs steel

[Sierraluva66]

So we are finally ready to pull the trigger on a shop. I am wanting roughly 1000-1200 sq-ft. Ultimately I’d love stick built to look like the house. But I will prob be able to get more tools and toys going with metal. I would do most of the work myself MEP wise. I won’t mess with framing a wood shop tho, I’d rather use my “guy” for that.

What’s the stoichiometric ratio size wise for it being more or less costly after a certain sq-ft? I want a simple place, 2-3 roll up doors a man door some sky lights and maybe a few windows. 14’ walls for a 2 post lift etc. it prob won’t have any plumbing as we would have to install a separate septic system(code)as the site would be to far from the house system. I’ll prob have an electrician do the service work to a 200A panel and I’ll wire the rest. I’ll do the ac/heat too. This will be a metals fab/what have you space. Wrenching on my own vehicles too.

So tell me, what’s the best use here? Looks and symmetry to my home are a must, but I’m not being choosy (well..not to much �&#56861. Just trying to weigh my options.

Thanks guys!

 

[cvairwerks]

Depends on your location greatly. Some areas, stick is less expensive when size is about 1500 sqft or less. Where I’m at, red iron is much less expensive starting around 1000 sqft. Style, wind and snow loads factor in, as well as foundation requirements and whether it’s bolt up or weld up. Permit and engineering costs all vary based on location.

 

[bpjr]

All I can tell you, here in Florida, metal buildings may be a problem with humidity. Worst case is mold and health problems. Open uninsulated metal buildings seem to do ok while insulated ones can trap moisture if not vented properly...which is easier said than done. I was a facility mgr for yrs and saw this numerous times in various facilities (two were at Kennedy Space Center where no money was spared to build them "correctly"). End result is no metal buildings for me unless its a tool or equipment barn.

 

[readhead]

Around my area depending on options the crossover is 1200-1500 sq/ft. Under that size the only advantage to steel is the clear span overhead. Some HOA's have a maximum height and if you want a lift, steel may be your only option. Keep in mind that a steel building doesn't have to have metal sides and a metal roof. I have done wood and stucco siding and shingle roofs.

It would help if we knew your location.

 

[matt_i]

Definitely pay more in concrete and electrical when doing a clear span metal. Everything will be in EMT. I would go that way when you need a large clear span, lets say 40'+. Under that the wooden trusses are easy to get and to hang. If you want to match deco then imo easier with wood. Its not impossible with a metal frame but more detailing required in my opinion and thus more expense. I would definitely pay for the custom engineering to add overhang (soffits) around the building rather than having the roof end directly at the sidewall with no overhang. Unless building an agricultural building and then it really doesn't matter.

I like wood for thicker insulation, ease of hanging shelves, and easy NM + staple wiring.

 

[sanddan]

Definitely pay more in concrete and electrical when doing a clear span metal. Everything will be in EMT. I would go that way when you need a large clear span, lets say 40'+. Under that the wooden trusses are easy to get and to hang. If you want to match deco then imo easier with wood. Its not impossible with a metal frame but more detailing required in my opinion and thus more expense. I would definitely pay for the custom engineering to add overhang (soffits) around the building rather than having the roof end directly at the sidewall with no overhang. Unless building an agricultural building and then it really doesn't matter.

I like wood for thicker insulation, ease of hanging shelves, and easy NM + staple wiring.

On my pole barn shop I put the electrical (for the most part) under the floor. After the shop shell was put up we buried the plastic pipe for the electrical runs in the gravel and then poured the concrete floor. Then the wire was pulled for the circuits. The only runs, other than the lighting, that are not under the floor were added later on such as the 2 post lift. It was a cost effective way to do the wiring but does require you to have a detailed layout of where the electrical will be needed.

I went with 16" eaves as you mentioned so it would better match the house.

 

[sberry]

1200 sq ft is 30x40 and on paper it looks to be plenty. This is so hard to fix after the fact but do 40x40. My Bud had a 30x40 with 2 doors in front and it was a 2 car garage and the space along the walls was cramped, couldn't store anything and work on 2 cars side by side and 40 was 2 short for end to end.
40 long with 2 car leaves work and tool room in front of the cars.

 

[sberry]

Wood trusses are economical at 40 ft.

On my pole barn shop I put the electrical (for the most part) under the floor.

I did mine that way too. I have even put some branches in the footings where it has to go under doors.

 

[rattle_snake]

I don't think there will be much of a cost difference between wood and metal construction vs. the cost of the whole deal. Quote both and the other major pieces and you will know.

I had same question. I got quotes for stick, pole and steel. They were all with in a few $k, have $65k in building now so only a few percent of total.

 

[iamhomeless]

"For whoever makes a shelter of reeds and hides has joined his spirit to the common destiny of creatures, and he will subside back into the primal mud with scarcely a cry. But who builds in stone seeks to alter the structure of the universe"

 

[macdabs]

I went with all Metal or "Red iron" for several reasons. One I hate looking for good lumber anymore. My building is all commercial grade so all the doors are heavy duty steel and will last forever in a home environment . I also found it cheaper to line the walls with seconds metal panels. No worry with grinding or welding and bumping drywall with objects. You can then run all your plumbing and electrical behind the girts and purlins.

I also live in the woods and don't worry about animals or ants eating the steel.
The only con is matching the structure to look like a house. That gets expensive with steel. In my case I wanted my garage several 100 feet from my house .Noise from the compressor and air tools along with the mess of restoring or working on cars . I did add a 4/12 pitch with 2 ft overhangs and do split block 4 ft up to soften the looks of a red iron building .

Mac

 

[tez929rr]

We built a 40 by 60 all steel about 12 years ago. Two years ago we built a 30 by 80 steel with stick framing on three sides so we could finish out a portion with interior walls and rooms. The cost for the stick framing was a marginal increase (steel building guy’s brother is a general contractor so his guys did it). I remember at the time of the first build, Chinese construction was driving steel costs up quite a bit, and since the main supports were so expensive it was generally cheaper to go narrower and longer. So at that time a 30 by 80 was a little cheaper than a 40 by 60, but not enough to matter. It’s worth checking with the steel building suppliers - I know when we were planning out the newer building the local Mueller place would price out all the different options.

I also know that in any one area probably ten percent of the guys that will do a steel building are good at it and the rest only think they are.

If you go steel get as many windows as you can afford. More light, more airflow.

 

[My Old Tools]

Another consideration is lofts and overhead hoists. Clear span lofts are easy in steel as are overhead i-beam traveling hoists. I put both in my shop. 30x40=1200sf, but adding a 20x30 loft adds 600sf of storage.

 

[rburke65]

Well we don’t know where you reside so maybe that might be an influence, but me....stick.

 

[RWorth]

In my experience, 30 is deep enough for a working garage, but I'd make it as long as you have room and can afford. Mine is 26 by 40, 26 is the width, and it was huge for about a week. If I had more land it would be at least twice the size. I had to do a 13x28 portable garage to store tools. too close to the boundry to do a wood structure.