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air comp regulator/drier/lubricator installation

OzCop

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Jan 24, 2005
Messages
62
Location
DFW/Texas
Hey folks, I just purchased an air compressor with 80 gallon tank. I also purchased air pressure regulator, filter, and lubricator. Connecting these items has been an exercise in futility due to leaks around connectors. The three items came as a set with brass fittings to connect them together. However, I am using 1/2 inch black pipe leading into filter, as well as out of lubricator. It leaks at both ends and the middle. At first I used plumbers pipe tape for all the fittings, and when that wouldn't work, I took it all apart and tried a white pasty compound...still leaks... any suggestions?
 
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MyDomain

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Nov 7, 2006
Messages
199
Location
SouthCentral PA
Tianjin Harbor Freight? Yep, junk. I bought a reg and drier there a few yrs back. It broke into pieces b4 it could leak! Return it and get some good stuff.
 

lilpeenoiracer

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Oct 8, 2006
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133
Location
La Puente,
thefairlaneman said:
I would use telflon tape on all of the connections and dont overtighten.

agreed!!!!!!!! my dad was checking to make sure i tightened the pipe going to the filter and he ended up cracking the filter housing... it was a hf filter as well.. oh yea tested everything and the only place it was leakign was the threads that was for the filter even though it was nice and tight it kept leaking what i found to work great was putting teflon tape on the threads adn brushing some great white sleant on the insdes of the female end and tighten good, but know when to stop. after i did that on all the threaded joints no leaks.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Location
Northern Virginia
Another very good pipe sealant is called "Rector Seal" available at good plumbing supply houses. It is a brushed on thick liquid and is tan in color. I have had very good luck with it when teflon tape and the white pipe dope fail.
 

bmwpower

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NJ
OzCop said:
Central Pneumatic... HF...probably junk?

I'm gonna have to agree, but if you really want to try and make it work, use some liquid sealant as others have stated. Hopefully it won't start leaking elsewhere.

Nicer units can be pricey, as you may already know, but I think they will give you less trouble down the road.
 
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OzCop

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Jan 24, 2005
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Location
DFW/Texas
Thanks...all good advice...funny, when I installed the pieces, I was careful not to overtighten, and after releasing the air pressure discovering leaks, tried to tighten more.. the leaks were worse!
 

MyDomain

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Nov 7, 2006
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SouthCentral PA
The chinese threads are ill fitting, made to loose specs. You have to really lay on the tape and dope but then have to wonder if the joint in the part itself will seal. I would return it or if you can't, pitch it and get the good stuff.

Ya really have to pick and choose what you buy at Tianjin Harbor Freight. Caveat Emptor!:fingersx:
 
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OzCop

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Jan 24, 2005
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Location
DFW/Texas
Thanks guys...returned another to HF.... Any ideas on brand I should buy? Where should I buy it? No time to work on it till Monday, but I need to find a reliable unit, even if I have to forgo the lubricator...I manually lube all my air tools anyway...
 
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bmwpower

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I like byrdman's Sharpe units:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2407 &highlight=sharpe

SHP-6730.jpg


I would forgo using a lubricator also.
 

sharpshooter

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Oct 24, 2006
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480
Location
West TN
Yeah the lubricator I can live without. I would rather take the time to oil my tools myself than not knowing if its getting done
 
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OzCop

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Jan 24, 2005
Messages
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Location
DFW/Texas
I had to return every piece of Central Pneumatic stuff that I bought... even the inflator with gauge leaked, and otherwise didn't work... Lessons learned. I't over 20 miles each direction to the HF store in my area...don't think I will be returning anytime soon...except to return the inflator tool... bummer...
 

TNToy

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Oct 11, 2006
Messages
1,385
Location
West Tennessee
I agree - skip the lubricator. I hate getting air tool oil inside tires. They're hard enough to keep on the wheels as it is...

I've used teflon tape and also red or black RTV silicone in the past with good luck. The RTV actually works very well if you can let it dry for a couple of days before you pressurize the system.

Skip any and all brass fittings, and use steel whereever possible. The first time you drop an air tool and the brass fitting snaps off flush in the thing, you'll wish you had listened to me. :p
 
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lilpeenoiracer

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Oct 8, 2006
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La Puente,
HF stuff NO GO! i thoughtmy system was leak free and so was the threads to the filter......well i moved a drop leg over couple feet and after i ws done i pressurized the system and leaks all over the filter... wel it was good for a seocond then out of noe were leaks from places its never leaked b4....
 

TNToy

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Oct 11, 2006
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West Tennessee
I'd be more afraid of it going full-auto or randomly discharging whenever you set it down, than I would of it using non-standard sizes. At least that won't put a brad in your foot. :D
 

Windshield

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Nov 19, 2006
Messages
3
Location
Tacoma Wa
Try using the tape and a paste pipedope. I like megalock it's a blue color with a pleasent smell. 5 wraps of tape then the paste. If it still leeks paste then tape then paste. Try it it will work.
Paul
A plumber
 

mikeyr

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Sep 16, 2005
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Location
Santa Barbara, CA
You mean a air system is not supposed to be a bunch of leaks connected to each other by some pipe ??? damm I have been doing it wrong :)

I have had problems with tape AND pipedope but either one should work. You may also want to look at the treads of the connections, I have seem damaged threads that no amount of goop would fix.
 

Wardrum

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Jan 31, 2006
Messages
243
Location
Wisconsin
mikeyr said:
You mean a air system is not supposed to be a bunch of leaks connected to each other by some pipe ??? damm I have been doing it wrong :)
Me too!!! To make mine worse, I hid some of the piping inside a wall before I pressure checked it. STUPID! :lol_hitti
 
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