Air compressor accessory ecommendations

[472scout]

Air compressor accessory recommendations

I just bought an used 2 stage, Quincy QT5, 60 gallon, for $500. Which was full asking price. I was meaning to talk him down to $450, but when I heard it run, so smooth and quiet, I was sold. I've never seen a 5hp compressor fill a tank that fast either. It was either the used QT5 or a home depot husky for $469 + 8% sales tax = $506. What a hard choice. So now I'm in the market for air-lines, fittings, piping, retractable hose reel, regulator, and a water separator. I'll be installing it the basement adjacent to the garage and using it for 75% auto air tools, 15% sand blasting, 10% auto body, sanding & painting. I don't have a blast cabinet yet, but it will probably be a big 56" plus, siphon skat blast type cabinet. Air-lines I'll probably use the HF goodyear hoses, maybe their retractable hose reel. I also want to upgrade the tiny 4" air filter (open element filter from a BBC rat?) and add a better drain valve. Doesn't need to be auto drain, just something a lot more convenient than getting on my knees and opening up that T-valve. I was thinking to run some pipe out to a lever actuated ball check valve. Thanks for the help. Bonus points for pictures.

 

[tegguy]

The best air hoses in my opinion are the Legacy Flexzilla check out the videos on their website (http://flexzilla.info/cats/videos.html) they do not stiffen up. They are a little more money but they are the only ones I use.

 

[awdblazer]

honestly get the harbour freight automatic drain
i just used the valve itself from the box and bought everything else
works great

 

[Cryptic1911]

The best air hoses in my opinion are the Legacy Flexzilla check out the videos on their website (http://flexzilla.info/cats/videos.html) they do not stiffen up. They are a little more money but they are the only ones I use.

Yup, I love mine.. only gripe is that they like to twirl up like a phone cord, but I can deal with that for the flexibility it has

 

[J Persons]

Starting at the compressor, use a 3/4" ball valve, then 3/4" hard lines, either black pipe or copper or an air line kit, just don't use PVC. Use flexible hose between the compressor and the hard line. Ingersoll Rand makes a good line of filters and water separators. www.tptools.com has some good diagrams on how to plumb, and where to place the filters and water separators.

 

[boosteddsm92]

You'll never regret buying that over the new comps in that price range and you'll know it every time you fire it up My only suggestion is Milton Type V fittings.

 

[stonesfan68]

If you are going to be sand blasting and painting then I'd recommend that you purchase industrial quality air treatment equipment from Ingersoll-Rand, Zeks, or Hankison.

 

[EOC_Jason]

.... and add a better drain valve. Doesn't need to be auto drain, just something a lot more convenient than getting on my knees and opening up that T-valve. I was thinking to run some pipe out to a lever actuated ball check valve. Thanks for the help. Bonus points for pictures.

People report good things about the HF auto drain, but as others have said, just use the drain piece itself and chuck the rest. Get copper line and new quality fittings to pipe it in.

Or, if you want to go manual, here's some pics of mine. Just figure out what size the thread is on the bottom and get a close-******, a 90, a short piece of pipe about 6-8" depending (just measure before you go buy), and a ball valve. Easy as pie. I had to build mine up on some 2x4's for ground clearance.

 

[Falcon67]

I don't have pics handy, but the filter on my 60 gallon uses a 1/2" pipe to 1" adapter, then a short section of 1" iron pipe to a tractor muffler. The muffler has a 5" plastic air cleaner adapter cut to fit around it and a small cheap 8" ish chrome air filter over the muffler. It's a hack, but it works well enough.

 

[antinym]

my drain is simlar to the rest but I have 4' of tubing on it so I can direct where the flow goes. You may want to drain into a bucket rather than get rusty water on your nice floor.

 

[J Persons]

Campbell Hausfield sells a drain kit that has the pipe fittings, extension tube and ball valve. The ball valve is threaded on both ends so the flow can be directed and not just dump. I got the kit at Tractor Supply, but I think Walmart may have them also.

 

[Cryptic1911]

My only suggestion is Milton Type V fittings.

Oh yes, this too.. I forgot to mention it in my other post. Google them, you can get them reasonable at a few places

 

[porschedude996TT]

honestly get the harbour freight automatic drain
i just used the valve itself from the box and bought everything else
works great

I have a Craftsman Pro 80 Gal 175 psi compressor. I bought the auto-drain from HF and when I got home, it says 100 psi maximum. Who has ones rated at 175 or 200 psi?

 

[porschedude996TT]

I don't have pics handy, but the filter on my 60 gallon uses a 1/2" pipe to 1" adapter, then a short section of 1" iron pipe to a tractor muffler. The muffler has a 5" plastic air cleaner adapter cut to fit around it and a small cheap 8" ish chrome air filter over the muffler. It's a hack, but it works well enough.

Are you in a flood zone or what? LOL Just Kiddin'

 

[sberry]

I used some old copper tubing hooked to the drains plumbed out thru the wall, open valve on occasion.

 

[awdblazer]

I have a Craftsman Pro 80 Gal 175 psi compressor. I bought the auto-drain from HF and when I got home, it says 100 psi maximum. Who has ones rated at 175 or 200 psi?

i am running my compressor at 125psi
but i didnt use the plastic lines they provided in the kit i used copper

 

[EOC_Jason]

I have a Craftsman Pro 80 Gal 175 psi compressor. I bought the auto-drain from HF and when I got home, it says 100 psi maximum. Who has ones rated at 175 or 200 psi?

Yeah I think it's the plastic tubing that is why they rated it @ 100 PSI. I'm sure the drain assembly itself can run much higher.

 

[sberry]

If the tubing is exhaust and open ended the 100 psi tubing is just fine.

 

[digdug18]

Yup, I love mine.. only gripe is that they like to twirl up like a phone cord, but I can deal with that for the flexibility it has

I ended up giving away the flexzilla hoses, I couldn't stand them trying to twirl all the time. I went with HF goodyear rubber hoses, they work great in any temperature, including in the winter.

 

[J Persons]

I ended up giving away the flexzilla hoses, I couldn't stand them trying to twirl all the time. I went with HF goodyear rubber hoses, they work great in any temperature, including in the winter.

I have three of the Goodyear hoses from HF. After about a year, one of them developed a bubble in the outer jacket. It's doesn't leak, it just swells up for a couple of inches. To be fair, I may have run over it one time.

 

[tegguy]

I ended up giving away the flexzilla hoses, I couldn't stand them trying to twirl all the time. I went with HF goodyear rubber hoses, they work great in any temperature, including in the winter.

I don't mind it I love the flexibility they have I have 3 50' ones and the small whip hose they sell. I even have a garden hose that is kink resistant.

 

[472scout]

Starting at the compressor, use a 3/4" ball valve, then 3/4" hard lines, either black pipe or copper or an air line kit, just don't use PVC. Use flexible hose between the compressor and the hard line. Ingersoll Rand makes a good line of filters and water separators. www.tptools.com has some good diagrams on how to plumb, and where to place the filters and water separators.

I'm thinking black pipe unless I can find copper for a good price. What's the min wall thickness needed for copper? Compressor kicks on at 100 and off at 150.

You'll never regret buying that over the new comps in that price range and you'll know it every time you fire it up My only suggestion is Milton Type V fittings.

I already tried a import compressor. Really grew to hate that thing even though it did, kind of, last me 20 years.
Yes, Milton fittings are on the list. V fittings are the hi flow ones? Don't want to handicap my new 2315QTiMAX.

People report good things about the HF auto drain, but as others have said, just use the drain piece itself and chuck the rest. Get copper line and new quality fittings to pipe it in.

Or, if you want to go manual, here's some pics of mine. Just figure out what size the thread is on the bottom and get a close-******, a 90, a short piece of pipe about 6-8" depending (just measure before you go buy), and a ball valve. Easy as pie. I had to build mine up on some 2x4's for ground clearance.

With an auto drainer is it still recommended to empty the tank daily?

my drain is simlar to the rest but I have 4' of tubing on it so I can direct where the flow goes. You may want to drain into a bucket rather than get rusty water on your nice floor.

My floor drain is around 12 feet from the compressor. Plan is to run some air hose over to it.

 

[awdblazer]

i dont drain mine everyday
with my auto drain it drains only a tiny but everytime the compressor kicks on and off

 

[EOC_Jason]

I'm thinking black pipe unless I can find copper for a good price. What's the min wall thickness needed for copper? Compressor kicks on at 100 and off at 150.

I would go with black pipe to run around the shop, it's cheaper and more durable if you bang something against it.

However, you need something flexible between the compressor and the start of the rigid black pipe. Get a coil of soft type L copper from HD or Lowes (Or type M if they don't have L), usually they sell it in like 10' coils. I usually leave the coil as-is and just kind of expand it out some to reach my two end-points (see pic attached). The loops absorb the vibration, but also all that length of copper will help cool your air too.

With an auto drainer is it still recommended to empty the tank daily?

My floor drain is around 12 feet from the compressor. Plan is to run some air hose over to it.

It will really depend. Most people when the auto drain kicks on it just lets out a little **** of moisture. Since it always does that when the compressor kicks on & off their tank stays dry. But if you are running it in extended periods where it doesn't cycle off, then you might have to manually drain it to get all the water out. It's good to add in a manual ball valve as a backup, but also when you want to drain all the air out of your tank it's fast and convenient.

Oh yeah, if you want to put it on anti-vibration pads, you can get them from McMaster Carr for like $7 each. This also gives you the added benefit of being able to level your compressor (if your floor isn't level). Not a big deal for vertical units, but for horizontal you want to be able to drain the water out of the tank.

 

[472scout]

Campbell Hausfield sells a drain kit that has the pipe fittings, extension tube and ball valve. The ball valve is threaded on both ends so the flow can be directed and not just dump. I got the kit at Tractor Supply, but I think Walmart may have them also.

Looks like it'll work. $18. http://www.tractorsupply.com/other-...eZip=80018&ddkey=http:LocationBasedPricingCmd

 

[EOC_Jason]

I piped my drain all 3/8", and almost debated making the pipe even larger. The theory in my mind is all that water can drain down into the pipe and is held there instead of sitting and rusting out your tank (assuming you drain it often enough).

 

[Cryptic1911]

I have three of the Goodyear hoses from HF. After about a year, one of them developed a bubble in the outer jacket. It's doesn't leak, it just swells up for a couple of inches. To be fair, I may have run over it one time.

Actually, that's another reason I like the flexzilla.. I've run over it multiple times, as well as squashed it under my lift, with a car on it. nothing phases it

 

[472scout]

I'm looking at water separators and oilers now. Too many choices. Trying to figure out what I really need so I don't break the bank for once.

 

[digdug18]

I'm looking at water separators and oilers now. Too many choices. Trying to figure out what I really need so I don't break the bank for once.

Well if you look at the professional setups, they have water separators at the end of each drop. I'd use the water separators/pressure regulator, so you can drop the pressure for individual tools.

A desiccant dryer would be great, but they are rather expensive. I think you can make one for yourself for cheaper.

 

[cheechi]

My only suggestion is Milton Type V fittings.

Can you school me on these? we had some hoses with these on them when I was in the auto shop, and they leaked a lot. Either we got them as samples or the hoses as samples, don't remember. We got a lot of sample stuff in the school system you know. We all made a big deal about it and finally stopped using them and put them in a box labeled 'newer better hosers'.

Nearly everything else in the shop was IR so I assume the fittings were too. Never had a problem with them. I don't have a problem with HF fittings, HF goodyear hoses, or HF thread tape. I have used both Flexzilla & the Hitachi branded hose that's very similar. Both are good but the Goodyear hose is easier to run it where you want it, between stuff all over the floor.

Jason, what water separator/regulator is that in your pic? do you recommend it? I have an HF one now and it does a better job than the on-tank regulator on mine, but if I get a second one I want to try something even better.

 

[J Persons]

Be careful if you use an oiler. It will coat the insides of the pipes and hoses, rendering them useless for use if spray painting.

 

[Warrenator]

I have the Milton type V, never leaked. I must emphasize, never leaked. I went from an assortment of types that came with things, or bought at from Homerland and Horrible Fright, they all leaked because they were mismatched, put them in the garbage and re-ended every tool. I really like the new Milton V's. I use the red rubber (1/2") goodyear hoses from HF as my main hose, and the extention hose for the driveway is the Black Goodyear (3/8") hose from Horrible Fright.

Also get the Milton air water separator with regulator, I had a Sears regulator that creeped up and was impossible to set. The Milton has been rock solid, it even comes with a drain for the separator that automatically lets the water out whenever it gets below 5 PSI or can be manually drained. I really like the Milton stuff. I got all mine at Northern Tool, they seemed to have the best prices.

Love the idea of using the copper coil to absorb vibration and cool the air from EOC Jason.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Jason, what water separator/regulator is that in your pic? do you recommend it? I have an HF one now and it does a better job than the on-tank regulator on mine, but if I get a second one I want to try something even better.

I think it is a Dayton. It's really just used as a pressure regulator (to bring the 175 PSI in the tank down to around 120 PSI for the shop), but it does capture some water.

Honestly, we have a bunch of the Craftsman filters at the end of each line. They work pretty good and are only like around $20. Their only downfall is the cheap o-ring on the draincock. Fortunately a size 003 o-ring fits perfect so it's best to keep a few on-hand.

 

[bosskong]

My Harbor Freight valve lasted a few weeks on the bottom of my 80 gallon vertical tank compressor before it started leaking. And btw, I only used the valve from the kit but used quality copper line and attachments from other sources.

Let me tell you, it was real fun turning my 500 pound compressor on its side again to fix the stupid drain. This time I decided to fix it properly instead of relying on more Harbor Freight junk. I installed a T fitting on the bottom of the tank with two short pipes coming out of each end. At the end of one pipe I installed an auto drain valve and installed a ball valve at the end of the other pipe.

 

[472scout]

I wasn't go to say anything, but since bosskong brought it up I don't like the idea of cheap auto drains. No need to take the chance of the drain getting stuck open or hoses or valve blowing apart and my compressor running for hours on end. Looking at the reviews on HF almost every last one of the reviews had problems.

 

[472scout]

Can you school me on these? we had some hoses with these on them when I was in the auto shop, and they leaked a lot. Either we got them as samples or the hoses as samples, don't remember. We got a lot of sample stuff in the school system you know. We all made a big deal about it and finally stopped using them and put them in a box labeled 'newer better hosers'.

Nearly everything else in the shop was IR so I assume the fittings were too. Never had a problem with them. I don't have a problem with HF fittings, HF goodyear hoses, or HF thread tape. I have used both Flexzilla & the Hitachi branded hose that's very similar. Both are good but the Goodyear hose is easier to run it where you want it, between stuff all over the floor.

Jason, what water separator/regulator is that in your pic? do you recommend it? I have an HF one now and it does a better job than the on-tank regulator on mine, but if I get a second one I want to try something even better.

Milton of course is a brand. If you look inside a genuine Milton V fitting they are larger than other fittings for higher flow and better performance out of your tools. No name fittings are hit and miss on flow, leakage, and failures.

 

[cheechi]

I installed a T fitting on the bottom of the tank with two short pipes coming out of each end. At the end of one pipe I installed an auto drain valve and installed a ball valve at the end of the other pipe.

I have a cman 33 gallon tank, so I could just tip it over and install one when I get the opportunity, but because of where it is it's a pain to make enough room to wheel it out unless I have to. That said, I know it's easier than what you had to do. Do you know do all tanks have the same size/thread on the bottom? my stopcock thingy isn't exactly inconvenient but I want to do exactly what you've done. is this something that has to be done differently for different sizes/ranges of compressors? I assume the only difference between yours and mine would be a different threaded fitting?

 

[EOC_Jason]

Do you know do all tanks have the same size/thread on the bottom? my stopcock thingy isn't exactly inconvenient but I want to do exactly what you've done. is this something that has to be done differently for different sizes/ranges of compressors? I assume the only difference between yours and mine would be a different threaded fitting?

Most 60 gallon and smaller have a 1/4" NPT for the draincock. I know it holds true for at least down to my 20 gallon Cman because I had to change it out. Larger tanks usually have 3/8", but not always.

 

[welder59]

I bought some of those hoses and within 3 days the had air bubbles between the layers of material. I took them back and went with the old stand by, rubber.

 

[472scout]

I noticed on this diagram TP tools used a Coalescing Filter for the air tools and a Water Separator for the sand blaster. What's the difference other than a stack of money?

http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf