air compressor after cooler

[Vehical13]

I want to put an after cooler between my compressor and the tank. the tank is drilled and tapped (inlet and outlet) for 3/4" The compressor is also drilled and tapped 3/4". For some reason the60 gallon Kobalt 2 stage 175 psi reduced the line to 1/2".

First: can I upsize the line to 3/4"?
Second: Where can I find trans cooler with 3/4" fittings?
Third: Which cools better tube and fin or stacked plate?

 

[Scotts1200]

Try Air pump company "APCO"
In Swartz Creek, MI.
They are a Great Little Company and Build Great Products.

Sent from my SM-J737VPP using Tapatalk

 

[Sumboodie]

Why do you need to cool the air?

 

[Vehical13]

When air is compressed it heats up. When its in the tank it begins to cool down and condensation, that's why tanks have a valve on the bottom. If I can cool the compressed air down, with a cooler, then after the cooler and before the tank I'll put water traps. Then the ambient temp in the tank won't have the chance to collect water. Dry tank is a happy rust free tank.

 

[Vehical13]

Thanks for the tip. H&P Technologies, Inc., has acquired the APCO Pump Lines Business and their website is not user friendly.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Dry tank is a happy rust free tank."

No way you can have a dry tank with just an air cooled coil; most it will do is cut down the amount of condensation.

 

[didit]

You will cool the air down but not enough to eliminate water in the tank. I have 4 - 8' tall, upright 3/4" L type copper columns with 4 vertical water traps downstream of the tank and an additional 10' long 3/4" L type copper run to a desiccant tower and moisture bottle. It uses the mass of the copper pipe and the superior heat transfer to cool the air enough to remove the water. The time it takes to travel 40 plus feet through the copper piping is what allows for effective cooling, water separation and removal.
I'm not saying what you are planning wont be somewhat effective but you should plan on a regular tank draining whether it be an auto drain or a simple manual valve, just the same.

My compressor is in a shaded, cool, insulated outdoor enclosure behind the wall in the first pic. It has air from the climate controlled garage vented into the enclosure.
The second pic may be a bit confusing having two hose reels, one being oil less and used only for blasting and painting. This system was built in less than a day and is very effective at removing moisture but I still need to drain my tank regularly.
I know you are attempting to nip the problem in the bud by cooling the air before the tank but I believe it will not remove as much water as you think it will. Good luck with it.

 

[Sumboodie]

For dry air, I have my compressor in an outbuilding and a buried line about 100ft to my garage where I have a 25 or 30 gallon tank.
On that tank I have a water separator and then large desiccant filters for the stuff that needs dry air, like paint sprayers and a plasma cutter.

The desiccant is reusable. 5 mins in the microwave and it's blue again.

 

[pcmeiners]

For dry air, I have my compressor in an outbuilding and a buried line about 100ft to my garage where I have a 25 or 30 gallon tank.
On that tank I have a water separator and then large desiccant filters for the stuff that needs dry air, like paint sprayers and a plasma cutter.

The desiccant is reusable. 5 mins in the microwave and it's blue again.

Nice setup...
That is as close to a dry tank as you can get, desiccant has the lowest practical dew point you can get, without going into expensive liquid gas cooling or other esoteric method (unless you spend the winter in the Artic with an unheated garage )