Air Compressor Auto Drain?

[Seb650R]

What autodrain are you guys running? I grabbed a few choice deals before the end of 2012 and one of them was for a Quincy 60 gallon 5hp compressor. I've never owned such a nice large compressor before and as such have never used an auto drain.

IR makes one but the $180 price point is mighty steep. HF sells one, but I'm not sure I care to trust my expensive USA compressor in the hands of Chinese manufacturing. Any help would be great. I don't mind spending $100, but I would like something that has the GJ stamp of approval.

 

[awdblazer]

i have the one from harbour freight and i think its damn good
i just had one problem the rubber membrane in it started to crack but i fixed that

 

[Provincial]

I had an industrial Quincy at one time and the unloader system on it did not use compressed air at the shutdown to trigger the unloader. This compressed air is what most automatic drains use for a control.

If you have the industrial Quincy pump, the only option I know of for an automatic drain is to use an electric valve and a timer. You have to get the power for this setup off the pressure switch.

 

[sberry]

If this is a home deal its probably a waste of effort, plumb a used piece of copper tubing out thru the wall with a ball valve in convenient place, open it once a month for few seconds.

 

[rob0781]

i have the one from harbour freight and i think its damn good
i just had one problem the rubber membrane in it started to crack but i fixed that

Is harbor freight in canada now?????
If it is wonder if it will be spelled harbour freight lol

 

[Danglerb]

Good cheap GJ approved solution doesn't exist, pay for an expensive one, take your chances with the cheap one. Seems crazy that nothing exists between HF $10 and Industrial $180, but seems that is the way it is.

 

[awdblazer]

no i was down in fargo in the summer

 

[benny42]

Do some research on inverted bucket steam traps. They make excellent tank drains. I have one and i check the tank occasionally, but its always dry.

 

[Jbullfrog]

I got mine at Granger. It is 110v with a cycle timer for open time and cycle time. I also have a filter/dryer on the outlet before it goes up to my air lines.

 

[sberry]

My auto drain method is,,, when I see one of these threads I mosey over and crack the valve for a few seconds.

 

[Trey T]

Don't be fool. Quincy uses Chinese parts. I believe they design and build the best reciprocating compressor pump ever but the unit is not completed made in USA.

I use the generic auto drain valve being sold on eBay for 50-80bucks for years now. I have no problem.

 

[E.Marquez]

If this is a home deal its probably a waste of effort, plumb a used piece of copper tubing out thru the wall with a ball valve in convenient place, open it once a month for few seconds.

This ^^^^
For me it's just a routine.
go in to shop, open drain (one step from the garage 100amp panel, and the compressor breaker) switch on compressor, reach down and shut off drain.. Use compressor for the day... Open drain, reach up and shut off breaker, close drain...
Rinse repeat daily.

The Auto drain is nice and all. I simply did not want to use one of the available breaker slots to power it.

 

[Bull]

The previous owner of my compressor installed a piece of tubing and a ball valve at the bottom of the tank. After using the compressor, I open and close the ball valve a few times; lots of water comes out on the first blast or two. Then I leave the valve slightly cracked and let the compressor empty out that way when I am finished working and out of the shop, so the hissing doesn't annoy me.

I want to pick up one of those inspection snake cameras and see if the tank is rusty inside; I sort of fear these compressor explosion stories that pop up from time to time.

 

[Seb650R]

Don't be fool. Quincy uses Chinese parts. I believe they design and build the best reciprocating compressor pump ever but the unit is not completed made in USA.

I use the generic auto drain valve being sold on eBay for 50-80bucks for years now. I have no problem.

Not being a fool, of course its not made 100% with US parts. Quincy is one of the best brands of compressors though, as you have stated. I would like to make sure my quality piece of machinery is properly maintained.

The previous owner of my compressor installed a piece of tubing and a ball valve at the bottom of the tank. After using the compressor, I open and close the ball valve a few times; lots of water comes out on the first blast or two. Then I leave the valve slightly cracked and let the compressor empty out that way when I am finished working and out of the shop, so the hissing doesn't annoy me.

I want to pick up one of those inspection snake cameras and see if the tank is rusty inside; I sort of fear these compressor explosion stories that pop up from time to time.

Rust is a major concern because I'm located in a swamp (Houston). The last thing I want is moisture buildup that causes the tank to suffer premature wear or failure. I think this would be much less of a concern if I was in somewhere that doesn't have high humidity on a daily basis.

After doing an eBay search I think I'm going to go with this NOS Quincy auto drain a guy is selling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QUINCY-Air-...076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec4f98f34

 

[Bull]

Not being a fool, of course its not made 100% with US parts. Quincy is one of the best brands of compressors though, as you have stated. I would like to make sure my quality piece of machinery is properly maintained.



Rust is a major concern because I'm located in a swamp (Houston). The last thing I want is moisture buildup that causes the tank to suffer premature wear or failure. I think this would be much less of a concern if I was in somewhere that doesn't have high humidity on a daily basis.

After doing an eBay search I think I'm going to go with this NOS Quincy auto drain a guy is selling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QUINCY-Air-...076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec4f98f34

Well, what's wrong with a tube and a valve at the lowest point of the compressor? Seems to me that very modest investment (and you can use USA tubing and valve!) will get any water out of that tank that there is, and it's a cinch to do it manually.

 

[Danglerb]

I have a Craftsman 33 gal vert with the drain at the absolute bottom with no clearance. Without something handy I never do it.

OTOH pretty much any tank with pressure in it is going to be wet inside unless its so dry its never wet, so drain valve is more to keep it from overfilling.

 

[river1]

I read somewhere (here I think) where someone plumbed an extension to the drain. They then put a blow gun on the end of it. Every time he walks past the compressor he kicks the blowgun with his foot and it releases a bit of air and water. I plan on doing that to mine at my first opportunity

Later jim

 

[Trey T]

Those are the generic type! The seller just call it "Quincy"

Not being a fool, of course its not made 100% with US parts.
......
After doing an eBay search I think I'm going to go with this NOS Quincy auto drain a guy is selling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QUINCY-Air-...076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec4f98f34

 

[TLCDino]

My eaton came with a little copper tube with ball value on the bottom. It's a 60 gallon upright. I just bend over and open the valve once in while. I rarely get much water. SoCal is rather dry...

 

[KCarGuy]

I use the IR Auto drain...set every 30 minutes for 10 seconds...out the back wall.

 

[dirtydogintex]

Perfect application for the K.I.S.S. rule:

tube up a remote mounted (mount so you don't have to bend over)
good quality 1/4" NPT 1/4 turn ball valve
unless taking amnesia pills for BP control....

 

[E.Marquez]

I have a Craftsman 33 gal vert with the drain at the absolute bottom with no clearance. Without something handy I never do it.

OTOH pretty much any tank with pressure in it is going to be wet inside unless its so dry its never wet, so drain valve is more to keep it from overfilling.

In a time long ago i had that same compressor.. there is room.
You have to unscrew the OEM valve, screw in a 1/8 NPT 90 deg fitting, and use a short run of 1/8 NPT pipe to get out from under the compressor.... then add a ball valve, push loc line adapter and some plastic line to an outside location (or a 2~5 gal cheapo gas can as a container works really well also, fill it 1/2 way with chips from a lathe, or a bag of cheap HB steel wool, put the line at the bottom of the can, when you vent to the can, the "stuff" will retain the fluids. vapor and the air can escape a vent at the top )

 

[PCO6]

I have a simple automatic drain from Princess Auto on my compressor. I turn the compressor off at night. The valve opens as the tank decompresses. When I turn it on in the morning I can hear the valve "hiss" for a few seconds and then close as the pressure builds.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8062622/Compressor-Components/Auto/Manual-Air-Tank-Drain

 

[Seb650R]

Well, what's wrong with a tube and a valve at the lowest point of the compressor? Seems to me that very modest investment (and you can use USA tubing and valve!) will get any water out of that tank that there is, and it's a cinch to do it manually.

Its about 50% laziness and 50% forgetfulness. If I just set up and automatic drain, I will know my tank is taken care of and not have to hassle with remembering.

Those are the generic type! The seller just call it "Quincy"

No they are not, I called Quincy. Its a genuine Quincy part. It may be the same design as others, none the less it is manufactured by Quincy so I am more trusting of the quality (especially at a similar price as Chinese versions).

 

[mdbeck1]

Its about 50% laziness and 50% forgetfulness. If I just set up and automatic drain, I will know my tank is taken care of and not have to hassle with remembering.

I've got to agree with you on the ratios. ...but to add to that... if I can automate something that I WILL forget I have a little bit more peace of mind. ...one less thing to worry about. ...and that's worth the trouble.

 

[The Frisco Kid]

Timed solenoid drain should run you about a bill. A little less for a cheap one, a little more for a nicer one.

I'm of the mindset of draining your own tank every time that you use it... but if you know that you're not going to do it better to add an autodrain than to let your tank rust out!

 

[sberry]

OTOH pretty much any tank with pressure in it is going to be wet inside unless its so dry its never wet, so drain valve is more to keep it from overfilling.

Pretty much this.

 

[1clean4runner]

Granzow Inc has Italian-made Auto drain valves - the timers are made in Denmark.

The list price is $212.68, but ask for Leif and he can give you a 50% discount.

Ships from Charlotte, NC.

http://www.granzow.com/valves/drain/

 

[modelaratrod]

Seb650r did you get one of the eBay Quincy auto valves? I'm looking for an auto drain solution also.

 

[Farmall450]

Well, what's wrong with a tube and a valve at the lowest point of the compressor? Seems to me that very modest investment (and you can use USA tubing and valve!) will get any water out of that tank that there is, and it's a cinch to do it manually.

I agree, it's what I do...

 

[pepi]

Just want to pass along a nice product I was told about. It is called the Moisture Minder. Did some quick research and plunked down the cash for it. This is the best auto drain I have seen. Works off the start and stop cycle of the compressor pneumatic triggered. A great up grade for your compressor, and no I have no horse in this race. This is the bomb of auto drains.

While plumbing this made another discovery you might like to think about. Those petcock drains that the piece to open and close always breaks off cause it is pressed on. An ice maker line install kit, the valve that is in the kit is a perfect replacement. On the bottom of the tank installed a T, put the valve on one side and attached the feed line to the Moisture Minder out the other side.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

 

[torqueman2002]

Here's my application.

Posts #15 - 17.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157265&highlight=drain

Hope it helps.

Oh, it will scare the neighbors if they are mowing their lawn next to it when it purges!

 

[EOC_Jason]

The thing I don't like about the electric timers is they will run 24/7 unless you unplug them. Also I've seen more than one where crud from inside the tank will get clogged in the auto-drain and it keeps it open. I can't tell you how many times I've come to work only to hear the neighbor's compressor hissing out air for who knows how many hours because their auto-drain got stuck.

I like the pneumatic style better, it cycles when the compressor runs, and most have a shearing type action that have less of a chance of getting stuck open.

I've read of people taking the harbor freight model and replacing the o-rings inside, and also using copper tubing instead of the plastic that is included. The main fixture itself is brass I believe, so kind of hard to go wrong with that.

Personally, I just like the regular old manual style the best. The amount of water that gets trapped in mine is less than what is in the pipe so the tank should always be stay pretty dry.

 

[pepi]

The thing I don't like about the electric timers is they will run 24/7 unless you unplug them. Also I've seen more than one where crud from inside the tank will get clogged in the auto-drain and it keeps it open. I can't tell you how many times I've come to work only to hear the neighbor's compressor hissing out air for who knows how many hours because their auto-drain got stuck.

I like the pneumatic style better, it cycles when the compressor runs, and most have a shearing type action that have less of a chance of getting stuck open.

I've read of people taking the harbor freight model and replacing the o-rings inside, and also using copper tubing instead of the plastic that is included. The main fixture itself is brass I believe, so kind of hard to go wrong with that.

Personally, I just like the regular old manual style the best. The amount of water that gets trapped in mine is less than what is in the pipe so the tank should always be stay pretty dry.

I totally agree with this: electric timers:run 24/7 unless you unplug them. That is the reason I made it a point to indicate that this is a PNEUMATIC triggered dump. It ties into the line that goes to the cut off switch, the same pressure drop or rise that signals your compressor to start and stop activates the dump. Btw this valve operates in a rage of up too 300 psi, it will handle any size compressor found in our garages.

The biggest problem with the harbor freight model is the working pressure, they are only good for 120 psi max. I had one in the past, read as removed and replaced with this MM. I got it to work, plumped in a regulator in front of the harbor freight valve. Reduced the pressure to 100psi, pressure for my compressor is 175. Even at the reduced pressure setting to the valve only it dumped/hissed the whole time the compressor was recovering. The MM hits a lick dumps at start up and again when the compressor recovers, tops off.

Notice that the valve is on the side of the tank and higher than the bottom of the same. It works there because the pressure in the tank will keeps the water forced into the line, reservoir and out of the tank. That should be common sense but point it out for clarity.

 

[PT Doc]

Just want to pass along a nice product I was told about. It is called the Moisture Minder. Did some quick research and plunked down the cash for it. This is the best auto drain I have seen. Works off the start and stop cycle of the compressor pneumatic triggered. A great up grade for your compressor, and no I have no horse in this race. This is the bomb of auto drains.

While plumbing this made another discovery you might like to think about. Those petcock drains that the piece to open and close always breaks off cause it is pressed on. An ice maker line install kit, the valve that is in the kit is a perfect replacement. On the bottom of the tank installed a T, put the valve on one side and attached the feed line to the Moisture Minder out the other side.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

How much was your pneumatic setup? Thanks

 

[pepi]

How much was your pneumatic setup? Thanks

I found the price range from 80 - 150, this is where I made my buy:

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...N-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html

Good service had it in a week. You will like it, I was really surprised just what a quality piece this was.



youtube info from the manufacture you will find interesting

Cheers,
Greg

 

[fastleft]

Pepi,

That looks like a great setup. Looks like you did not purchase one of their installation kits. Is that regular 1/4" copper tubing with compression fittings? I see the T/valve you mentioned that you used on the bottom, just curious how you connected the line up at the unloader? Did you have to cut and T into the line from the check valve to the unloader? If so was that just a compression tee?

Thanks
Tommy

 

[pepi]

Pepi,

That looks like a great setup. Looks like you did not purchase one of their installation kits. Is that regular 1/4" copper tubing with compression fittings? I see the T/valve you mentioned that you used on the bottom, just curious how you connected the line up at the unloader? Did you have to cut and T into the line from the check valve to the unloader? If so was that just a compression tee?

Thanks
Tommy

Tommy

Thought I put up some more pictures to explain, yes the line for the unloader is 1/4 and compression fitting were used

Here on the bottom, this line is 3/8 with compression fittings also. Notice the valve at the far left on the end of the tee. That is the ice maker valve I spoke about that replaced the junk petcock that is worthless.

I did not get the install kit cause, had enough fittings lying around that needed to be used.

Hope this was helpful let me know if you need more info.

Cheers,
Pepi

 

[fastleft]

Pepi.

Thanks much thats perfect! I ordered one yesterday as well and I have more than enough to hook it up already. Wasn't sure what I was missing that was included in a $60 box of fittings and plastic tubing!

Thanks
Tommy

 

[pepi]

Pepi.

Thanks much thats perfect! I ordered one yesterday as well and I have more than enough to hook it up already. Wasn't sure what I was missing that was included in a $60 box of fittings and plastic tubing!

Thanks
Tommy

Yeah the install kit was a bit much LOL, you are going to find this MM way cool and just a damn good design.