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Air compressor automatic shut off

ferris11

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Joined
Oct 15, 2023
Messages
3
Hoping someone can help me out. Let me preface this by saying I know nothing about air compressors. This one has worked for the last 5 years (and still works).
the problem I'm having that I'd like to fix is that the compressor doesn't turn off unless I unplug it. If I let it keep running, the pressure release valve (not sure if that's the real name, but that's what I'm calling it - with the red arrow pointed to it) opens and let's air out.
While not the end of the world for me to plug and unplug it, it would be more convenient if it turned on/off automatically.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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micromind

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Sep 24, 2023
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Fernley, Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno.
I agree, the pressure switch is bad.

If you know the start and stop pressures, you can very likely get one that's the same range and won't need to be adjusted. 5 PSI one way or the other won't matter.

The one you have has an unloader valve. It's the thing on the side that the small aluminum tube goes to. Make sure you get one with this valve. If you can't make the existing aluminum tube work, you can replace it with another aluminum tube or a copper one. In either case, it's 1/4". You'll need new ferrules and likely new nuts. Don't try to bend it like the factory one, it'd be nearly impossible to do by hand. Pick a different route that doesn't involve tight bends, it might not look as good but it'll work.

Also, the one you have looks like it has 1/4" female pipe threads. This is the most common size but you'll need to check.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,214
Location
Indy
OP, can you read the data plate on that motor? What is the HP, voltage, current etc?
Yes, your pressure switch is bad, probably contacts welded together. However, that doesn't look like the sort of motor I would expect to see on that compressor. My concern is the motor may draw more power than that switch can handle.
 
OP
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ferris11

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Oct 15, 2023
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Thanks for all of your help. Very helpful.

Here is a pic of the motor.
 

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Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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Indy
Are you running 120V or 240V? Odds are that switch can't handle the 22A if run in 120V mode
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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Location
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OK, I suspect the pressure switch isn't rated for that much current thus the contacts welded themselves together. A new pressure switch is likely to eventually do the same. If you have the option to use a 240V outlet the problem will go away (the current through the switch is 1/2 as much at 240V).
I generally like Condor pressure switches. If you look on Amazon you will find prices very greatly for what largely look like the same switch. The things I would worry about if buying one are:
1. Do you need a 4 way base or a 1 way base. Looking at your picture it looks like a 1 way base. A 4 way base just means you have to plug a number of holes with caps.
2. Your picture shows you will need an unloader valve on the switch.
3. What type of wire clamp do you want to use. Yours appears to use those wire clamps that work with metal electrical boxes. Mine used a clamping bar built into the switch. If you look at these two listings you can see the difference. One clamps the wires on the bottom, the other uses the box things on the side. This is largely a preference thing (note both of these show a 4 way base
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2X2MHP/?tag=atomicindus08-20 -> 1-way base
4. Pressure range. This one isn't critical as you can adjust the cut in and cut out pressures but if you can find one that's correct out of the box, well that's just easier.

When I was searching I found prices for roughly the same switch varied from $20 to $50+. If it was listed as for a specific model compressor it often cost more. I was lucky and found a switch that was basically a direct replacement for mine for around $25. If the "correct" part was more like $50 I would have found one that was correct other than the pressure range and adjusted it.

OK, final thing, if you have to stay with 120V then I see three options.
*Replace switch and understand the new one is likely to have a short life due to the high current load.
*Replace the motor with one that doesn't draw more than 15A
*Add a magnetic starter. The starter is basically a relay that is triggered by the pressure switch but can handle the higher current load. So the current seen by the pressure switch would drop to perhaps 1A and the starter would handle the high current. This is an example of a starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DTBVZ4P/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
Joined
Oct 17, 2023
Messages
7
I do not see any filter on that unit. Is the sir intake that threaded port next to the discharge pipe the intake port ? Or maybe it is located where I cannot see it ? Just pointing it out as a necessity once he gets the other items he needs.
 
Joined
Oct 17, 2023
Messages
7
And I agree. That electric motor looks huge for a portable unit especially, it is longer than the tank width, but if it is what is specified then it is what it is…
 
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