Air compressor cooling with hydronic baseboard elements

[Lonstar]

Instead of bare copper pipe, would hydronic baseboard elements be ok? A friend just removed a bunch of 6' and 8' elements from a house that changed the heating system. I did some searching but can't find anything that states what grade copper is used to make them. They're 3/4" copper pipe, not steel pipe.

 

[Dagny]

NO they are type d copper tubing very thin.

 

[66cj225]

I was thinking they'd be schedule 'M' rather than 'L' and not so sure I'd like that. Which side of the flex hose would also be a factor.

 

[Lonstar]

NO they are type d copper tubing very thin.

Type D? The Copper Tube Handbook lists 4 types - K, L, M and DWV.
I don't think you mean DWV (Drain/Waste/Vent) as it's made for unpressurized applications and the smallest diameter it's made in (from what I've found) is 1 1/4". Can you point me where I can find info on type D copper?

 

[roadruiner]

most hydronic heat uses type L copper tube

 

[Dagny]

I can't remember where I learned it but I know it was called type d distribution tube. Anyone who has cut it will know it is very thin and hard to cut with a tubing cutter because it collapses when you tighten up on it .

 

[Lonstar]

Hook one to your compressor
Turn it on.
They're junk now, blowing a seam isn't going to detract from their value.
It isn't going to blow up, the pvc pipe skeered folks are fevered of shrapnel not the burst.
Throw a blanket over it when you load the air if it's a safety must.

Two steps:
Add air
Report back to gj.

No need for speculation when facts can be made available by you.

I have no idea what this is supposed to mean, nor do I care.

One of the main purposes of this forum is for people to ask questions and opinions about something they want to know more about. The responses to the question may or may not raise more questions, discussion and (mature) opinions.

People like you that want to add absolutely nothing to the discussion other than kicking the OP and/or some stupid humor only they understand should stay away from the keyboard and grow up.

 

[Lonstar]

I can't remember where I learned it but I know it was called type d distribution tube. Anyone who has cut it will know it is very thin and hard to cut with a tubing cutter because it collapses when you tighten up on it .

Thanks Dagny. I'll look into distribution tube. I'm not doubting what you're saying, I just want to understand it better.

 

[Lonstar]

I was thinking they'd be schedule 'M' rather than 'L' and not so sure I'd like that. Which side of the flex hose would also be a factor.

most hydronic heat uses type L copper tube

I read posts from others that have used both M and L. PSI ratings on both are well above the PSI of the compressor.

66cj - what do you mean by "which side of the flex hose"? I was thinking of connecting it as:
Compressor pump → tank → flex hose → baseboard → filters → main trunk


I brought an 8' section home with me, have to cut a piece of it off and see how it measures up to some other pieces of copper I have.

Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it.

 

[Lonstar]

Your post to me is distasteful and of an absolute useless nature.

You had no idea what I typed about.

Air it up.
Let us know.

I sincerely apologize ducksface. I absolutely misunderstood what you were saying, felt your post was distasteful and useless.

Thank you for taking the time to explain. After reading your second post and then rereading the first one with that explanation in mind I now get what you meant. Your writing style threw me off, especially with the PCV comment thrown in.

Again, very sorry for my response. I'm sure it was as left field for you and what I thought your first response was to me.

As I said in the previous post, I'm going to cut a piece off and see just how sturdy it is. If it passes the smell test I'll do as you suggest. Thanks!

 

[The Cobbler]

I have worked with hydronic heat tube & yes, it is very thin

 

[rlitman]

I have worked with hydronic heat tube & yes, it is very thin

Yes. FYI, it is not a standard schedule tube. Fin convectors get better heat transfer with a thinner wall, and boilers have pressure relief valves set to 30 psi (and they generally operate at under 15 psi) so greater strength is not required.

 

[The Cobbler]

now, you could get creative and run a type L on the inside of it, with water jacket between it & the tube fin. the water would transfer the heat to the fin.

 

[Lonstar]

now, you could get creative and run a type L on the inside of it, with water jacket between it & the tube fin. the water would transfer the heat to the fin.

Finally! A suggestion that makes perfect sense to me!

 

[rlitman]

now, you could get creative and run a type L on the inside of it, with water jacket between it & the tube fin. the water would transfer the heat to the fin.

This is getting nuts. Anyway, the tube in a fin convector shares the same OD with normal schedule copper tubing. Buy yourself a piece of L tube, slide the aluminum fins off the baseboard and onto the thicker copper.

 

[Lonstar]

I'd like to extend an invitation to ducksface to come over to my house for a few beers to be sure there are no hard feelings.

On with the matter at hand -

I cut a piece of pipe off the baseboard with a tubing cutter and then cut that piece again with an air cutter equipped with a diamond wheel to get a clean cut. Cleaned the cut with a light touch on the grinder in an effort to get an accurate as possible wall thickness measurement.

The (un)official results of wall thickness are (based on 3/4" pipe in all categories):
K copper - .065
L copper - .045
M copper - .032
Baseboard - .017

Might connect it anyway to see what happens.

Back to the invite. Cooler will be next to compressor. After the 8th or 9th beer, when Ducks heads in for another, I'll yell "hey bud, while you're in there can ya flip the compressor on for me and make sure it stays running to full pressure?".