Air Compressor Drain Valve?

[RonRock]

Looking for suggestions on a couple different types of drain valves for my air system.

I'd like to put an automatic drain in my tank. So need suggestions on what works well. And I have been working on running my air line around the perimeter of the shop with several 1/2" drops to points of use. In these drops I plan a short drop after the take off tee for a water drop. I think I would like to use the type of drain valve that has a needle with a cable connected for remote drain use. Like this,

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6M60Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Is this a good thought? Or would I be better off with a simple ball valve at the end of the drop? The valve will be low on the wall so reaching it will be no problem.

Where can I buy those type valves? A Google search don't find me a supplier. There must be another brand available, but I have no idea.

 

[A29]

I bought a ball valve at Lowes and installed it at the tank. Not automatic but works for me.

 

[RonRock]

My compressor is in the loft. I have a ball valve on it now, but unfortunately I don't think to drain it often enough.

 

[sberry]

I plumbed all mine with used copper tubing and if it has been getting some use I walk over and crack the valves when I read a comp drain thread. I found enough stuff only had to make one flare from this obsolete water tubing.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Ball valve on the tank for me, too. Drains through 1/4" copper into an old 1 gallon washer fluid bottle with holes in the cap and filter material under the holes to keep water from blowing out.

Tommy

 

[coljar]

I have one of the drains on the tank with an electric solenoid and timer built in. I put a bypass valve around it so I can blow it down manually, too. I also have drops in the shop with manual blow down valves.

 

[FloydShine]

My compressor is in the loft. I have a ball valve on it now, but unfortunately I don't think to drain it often enough.

I found that by putting a Calendar on the wall next to the compressor, at a height that I see it all the time, has helped me to remember to drain the tank. I make a notation of the date to record that I have drained the compressor tank, and by doing so, it gives me a visual indication that I have been a good boy, or that I am a fool who will get to replace a tank because of memory loss.

 

[sberry]

You wont replace a tank from not draining them on occasion.

 

[Bondo]

Looking for suggestions on a couple different types of drain valves for my air system.

I'd like to put an automatic drain in my tank. So need suggestions on what works well. And I have been working on running my air line around the perimeter of the shop with several 1/2" drops to points of use. In these drops I plan a short drop after the take off tee for a water drop. I think I would like to use the type of drain valve that has a needle with a cable connected for remote drain use. Like this,

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6M60Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Is this a good thought? Or would I be better off with a simple ball valve at the end of the drop? The valve will be low on the wall so reaching it will be no problem.

Where can I buy those type valves? A Google search don't find me a supplier. There must be another brand available, but I have no idea.

Ayuh,.... Cable pull drains can be bought at 'bout any tractor trailer parts house,....

Here's one of mine,...

 

[Beemer533]

Timer valves:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ67P28/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00273WV78/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or just a 120VAC solenoid and a timer...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG89BOC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[RonRock]

Good pointers. Thanks guys.

 

[LWW]

I have one of these on my 60 gallon compressor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-68244.html

Works great and activates every time the compressor "starts" or "stops". Haven't had any problems with it since it was installed. Requires no power and for $9, it was hard to beat compared to other options.

 

[fsae0607]

Street elbow, brass ******* and a ball valve here. I crack it when I first turn on my compressor when I open up shop, then crack it again when closing up shop. Simple and cheap! Do it enough times and it becomes habit.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

I have a ball valve on my Crapsman but it sits down very low. I had to chock up the wheels to clear. Keep that in mind if you have a vertical. Street elbow may help.

 

[CS223]

I have 3 compressors, a small home size 20gal Quincy, a 80 Gal Saylor Bell and a 80 Gal Belaire, I have Kingston auto drains on all of them, one has been on the Saylor Bell for over 30 years. They work perfect have never needed any attention. Went through 2 of the crappy Harbor Freight valves on the Quincy.

http://amzn.com/B006U4BXHE

 

[akdiesel]

Ron

I am in the works of getting my 80 gallon compressor plumbed. I tried getting an Ingersoll EDV from Amazon but they won't ship this to my address. I was able find a less expensive one o. Ebay. So I got two. I will try it out on the main tank and the pre knock out drum with drain times staggerd. I also plan to route the 1/4" stainless line out the shop low point vent which is right next to the tank.
As sberry said not draing every day won't kill your tank but I want dry air for my up coming projects. I am reCing a 1999 CH 20 gallon compressor and I only drained it every 3 years or so. Still works but this new on is also more epensive.

 

[E.Marquez]

I have one of these on my 60 gallon compressor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-68244.html

Works great and activates every time the compressor "starts" or "stops". Haven't had any problems with it since it was installed. Requires no power and for $9, it was hard to beat compared to other options.

Can you detail the hook up?
I'd like to know what it takes so i can make a single trip for supplies as well as go get the item from HF.. Thansk

 

[BearsFan315]

I would like to see some pictures of HOW the install of the Kingston 620 or equivalent was done by you guys. Says this valve is good for 30-300 PSI, 30 Min is required. and recommended for 5hp or less.

 

[sberry]

Most of the water found in air lines isn't from it laying in the bottom of the tank but condensate from hot air cooling in lines. Draining probably helps a little.

 

[E.Marquez]

Most of the water found in air lines isn't from it laying in the bottom of the tank but condensate from hot air cooling in lines. Draining probably helps a little.

Draining the tank is about maintaining the tank first, and ridding water from downstream second.

Drop legs, drain valves, coalescing filters handle most of the condensation in the cooling air.. with refrigerated or other final moisture trap if you need better moisture control.

 

[bd8134]

Can you detail the hook up?
I'd like to know what it takes so i can make a single trip for supplies as well as go get the item from HF.. Thansk

I bought one of those HF units and spent more time fitting it than it was worth. The pvc does not work, the T fitting was porous and leaked and the valve failed after ~ 6 months. I bought another one to get my compressor working and that one also started to leak. I replaced it with an electric timer unit which was so much better. Read some of the reviews of the HF valve and don't waste your time. I think it also mentions the max tank pressure is 100psi.

 

[AndyA]

Where can I buy those type valves?

I've bought these from mcmaster.com 1/4"NPT $5.45 http://www.mcmaster.com/#49375K15

I have one of these pull valves as the tank drain for the compressor on the truck. Otherwise I'd have to climb up on the truck to reach the drain valve.

I have ball valves for drains in the shop. I think the pull valves will start leaking over time.

 

[RickP]

Can you detail the hook up?
I'd like to know what it takes so i can make a single trip for supplies as well as go get the item from HF.. Thansk

I have the HF kit too. It's built really cheaply, but if you want to try it, you're only out $9...

It has all the fittings needed to replace a standard 1/4 inch drain valve. You only need to buy extra fittings if you want to extend the drain port out from under the compressor. Here's a site with a lot of info about the installation :
http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/

That site recommends replacing the cheap plastic tubing with copper - I'm planning to do that too.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Another ball valve and street elbow user here. I do need to finish plumbing it out the wall of the garage into the shed.

 

[sberry]

I plumbed thru the wall too, its as easy as it can get.

 

[KRS62]

In case anyone is still looking....here is a video that I did to add a drain to mine. It was really easy.

KRS

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Street elbow, brass ******* and a ball valve here. I crack it when I first turn on my compressor when I open up shop, then crack it again when closing up shop. Simple and cheap! Do it enough times and it becomes habit.

Same here, and 1000% easier than unscrewing the original valve and busting knuckles.

 

[myredracer]

I recently installed the HF valve. It's only rated for 100 psi so I bought some high pressure DOT tubing and a new Tee & connector with push-in fittings. The tubing has no rating on it and assume that's a weak point. Hasn't blowed up yet. Also added a ball valve in case the auto-drain isn't emptying enough. There is a satisfying hiss and pop every time the compressor shuts off. For a $10 bill, you can't go wrong. Also bought a spare "just in case"... From the outside, the HF piece looks fine, but who knows if the brass isn't porous of if the diapghram will be short-lived?

The timer/electric ones cost so much more.

At the same I installed the HF valve, I replaced the unloader valve which was faulty. Got it from a compressor shop and is pre-owned. If the compressor has been sitting for a bit, it struggles on initial startup then is fine after that. Never used to do that. Not sure if the unloader valve is at fault or the HF drain valve is affecting the unloader valve. Need to check it out some day soon.

Just need to add a piece of hose and container to catch the water that comes out with each puff.

 

[sberry]

When I read a auto drain thread i walk over and give the valve a kick.

 

[muncie21]

another manual ball valve connected to flex hose user here

 

[nadogail]

I screwed 1/4" street ell into the bottom of the vertical tank, ran a 6" ****** to a ball valve. I give it a crack when ever I am using the compressor and mentally kick myself for waiting so long to make this simple modification.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I just use a brass elbow 90' degree with a brass extension pipe, then a ball on/off valve. Probably spend 10 bucks on everything. Simple and you open the valve, water sprays out then close.

-Nigel

 

[pepi]

Looking for suggestions on a couple different types of drain valves for my air system.

I'd like to put an automatic drain in my tank. So need suggestions on what works well. And I have been working on running my air line around the perimeter of the shop with several 1/2" drops to points of use. In these drops I plan a short drop after the take off tee for a water drop. I think I would like to use the type of drain valve that has a needle with a cable connected for remote drain use. Like this,

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6M60Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Is this a good thought? Or would I be better off with a simple ball valve at the end of the drop? The valve will be low on the wall so reaching it will be no problem.

Where can I buy those type valves? A Google search don't find me a supplier. There must be another brand available, but I have no idea.

Semi trucks used them and is where they originated.

Compressor, auto drain "moisture minder" pneumatic triggered, controlled, no wiring required.

 

[redmondjp]

Just one caution here. If your compressor sits in an area where the bottom of the tank is exposed to below-freezing temperatures, you have to be careful because water can freeze and crack your drain piping if the tank isn't drained often enough.

 

[Rrumbler]

I have the HF valve on mine, plumbed in very similar to what Gil shows in post #28 above.
No problems yet, been on the compressor for six or seven years. It operates momentarily each time the machine starts and stops, just a little "pffff"; but it is very dry where I live, and the compressor never generates much moisture. I put a petcock on the other side of the Tee, and have never gotten any drainage from it when I have opened it, so I figure the valve is doing it's job ok.

 

[JunkYardDawg]

I have one of these on my new Kobalt 60 gallon:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ67P28/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I ran a 240v sub panel to the compressor, and a switched outlet to the timer valve. I also bought and installed the Harbor Freight refrigerated air dryer, which is a nice unit. I use that when I am painting or running the sand blast cabinet.

This setup works very well.