Air compressor filter regulator

[Drouin66]

I just bought a blasting cabinet and I need to get nice dry clean air coming out. Can anybody requimend a good water/air filter that doesn't break the bank? If it is one of those that has a regulator tied into it as well that would be great.

Also same thing for one of those coffee can micro filters for painting any suggestion.


I am no pro just a home hobby auto enthusiast ...

Thanks for the help...

 

[600SL]

I got this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200625244_200625244

It was the only one I could find for 3/4" pipe so that I wouldn't have to reduce down to 1/2" or 3/8" and then increase back up. It also was a nice compact unit with the filter built in and a gage.

 

[RickP]

I got one from IR, and I thought it had really good quality:

IR ARO filter/regulator

They were on sale a couple months ago, and a 1/2 inch size with gauge was around $20, but I have no idea what the regular prices are.

 

[rburke65]

You probably want to get a good one.....this is not the place to skimp on quality. And welcome to The Garage Journal!

 

[Drouin66]

Thanks guys. Yes I have learned I bought a Kobalt regulator and filter and have returned both because they are ****.


By the way 600sl was that your air system i was reading the build on? Very nice.....l

 

[redmondjp]

A filter/regulator is only part of the solution. The real key is cooling the air down as much as possible before it passes through the filter. There are many good threads on this site discussing air coolers of all types & sorts (can be between the pump and the tank, or after the tank, or downstream in the air system).

The more you can cool the air down before it gets to the filter/regulator, the better it will work. Most people don't understand that the filter/regulator in most cases is a coalescing or impingement filter that will only catch liquid entrained in the air (in tiny droplets). It will not capture water vapor. I have a filter/drier right at the output of my compressor (put it there 25 years ago before I knew any better), and I'll still get a lot of water at the end of the system when I'm using a high-cfm air tool for more than 10-15 minutes.

Do some compressor air piping searches on here and you'll find plenty to read - there has been a lot of discussions in the past couple of months on this topic.

 

[sberry]

Smaller units are going to work better on most of these systems. A 3/4 ported unit is optimal around 50 cfm and above, one with 1/4 ports just ahead of a reel works best.

 

[Drouin66]

I was thinking of putting 1/2........lines and putting the filter that the very end.........I have only had my compressor for a little while. I haven't needed to make an air line system yet, so here is my chance........

 

[sberry]

1/2 line is ideal and in a small garage keeps the air velocity up a little so it may drive any water downstream to a common drip leg. I havnt seen the Kobalt stuff, I am not sure why it wouldn't work just fine? There is nothing wrong with cheap here and this type of filter isn't going to work any better by tossing a couple hundred dollar bills at it.
I have a cheap unit from Home Depot and its ported right with 3/8 in, 1 3/8 and 2 1/4 out.
Contrary to popular belief bigger is not better here. When its not matched and the air is too slow it doesn't work. I have a 100$ Sharp filter and a 20$ one that works better with normal air tools. Its just sized right, got a couple of them as a matter of fact and going to change one out for that reason, in 25 yrs hasn't caught one drop of water.
I stumbled on one the other day I didn't realize I had, come off another job.