Air compressor filter regulator

[jakgop21]

I have a filter regulator on my setup currently , cheap one $20 . Doing the job for now , but looking to eventually upgrade to a larger compressor for a shed In my backyard .

Debating whether I should change the 1/4" galvanized to copper and swap out to rapid air filter regulator like my buddy has . I have a leak somewhere in my system that I have yet to find .

What are your thoughts on that unit ? No current plans for painting or sand blasting just regular air tools .

What do you use for your filter and regulator setup ?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

Is it working? Unless there is some need not being met what's the point? I paint from a 1/4 reg. This is my paint reel. 1st pic is older, been a revision since.

 

[jakgop21]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jakgop21]

It is currently working . That's my current setup eventually will be moved to a shed . The main thing bugging me is the leak which I have to use soapy water to find . Wanted to change the galvanized to copper for uniform look , already bought majority of the fittings .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

Change it if you want but that doesn't look too bad. You have some extra fittings but it's not that big a deal.

 

[jakgop21]

Change it if you want but that doesn't look too bad. You have some extra fittings but it's not that big a deal.

What do you mean by extra fittings ? I'm just curious


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

There are 3 extra elbows in just one section, no mystery. Actually 4 going to the reel plus the reducing coupling that could be eliminated. I am not where i can draw over the pic but a riser going up from the hose that goes thru the wall with the t added to reach the whip to the reel.
I got an extra one in mine didn't really need to be there.

 

[jakgop21]

There are 3 extra elbows in just one section, no mystery.

How would you have done it differently ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jakgop21]

How would you have done it differently ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't read your whole post at first didn't know you had explained more . Thanks for the input .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

A big advantage of screwed piping is you can look at it and do it again if you feel like it. I have a few fittings that I would have done differently in hindsight, still bug me even though they don't make any difference. After I look realize I could have done it a step easier.

 

[Furd50]

A little background about me. I worked for more than twenty-five years maintaining compressed air systems for a Fortune 500 company so I know a bit about compressed air systems.

I would never use anything less than 1/2 inch galvanized steel piping and 3/4 inch is not too large for a home shop. If you have a large compressor (over 20 CFM) then use no less than 3/4 inch piping. Do NOT use a lot of quick-connects in series as are shown in the pictures. This is because quick-connects have a fairly high pressure drop across them and limit the CFM flow rate.

Use nothing smaller than 3/8 inch ID air hoses! The only exception is when using an air nailer. Have all piping pitched to allow draining of any condensed water. There are two schools of thought on which way to pitch but make sure that it WILL drain. You can pitch downward back to the reservoir (tank) and drain the system that way or you can pitch towards the outlet and install a drain at the lowest point. Make sure that every point you "take off" air from is located above the horizontal piping to ensure no water. This means having the side of the tee in the pipe pointing upwards and using a pair of elbows to bring the piping down to the outlet.

Use water separators and filters sized to the pipe for ease of connection. Size regulators to the actual (not average) flow of the tool. For example, a typical 1/2 inch impact wrench is rated as using 4 CFM average consumption but that is based upon the tool only running for fifteen seconds out of every minute. The actual consumption is more like 16 CFM and the hoses, filters and regulators MUST be able to pass this amount of air or the tool will not perform to specification. Most pneumatic tools are rated to use 90 psi AT THE TOOL and if you have excessive resistance due to too long or too small ID hose, too small a regulator or filter you will not have the requisite pressure or flow at the tool.

On the same note, using significantly higher air pressure than needed does NOT increase the tool's capacity, it just causes more wear and air waste.

 

[sberry]

I agree and it is worth double noting that the avg and actual are 2 different things. I like 1/2 due to simplicity and these short distances make so little difference especially prior to regulation. Most, almost all loss occurs in the secondary hosing. I also agree there is a tendency to want the "best" connectors to reduce loss then add multiples in series. One cheap one is as good as 2 better ones.
The hose needs to hook to the unit or supply, simply screw it to it and eliminate 1 as well as potential leaks.
Hose length is the single most important factor in reducing loss with a high demand tool like heavy impact especially in low pressure systems, single stage where there isnt the headroom to turn up pressure to compensate.

 

[sberry]

All our general use hoses are fixed, none are moved from hydrant to hydrant and the only connector is at the tool. I happen to use H but the ratings are the same for them no matter what the threaded input is, they come in 1/4 thru 1/2. The ****** being only an inch long doesn't add much resistance. With a 1/2 air gun a 3/8 hose drops about a pound a foot. Moving up a size helps a lot there as does using a shorter hose, a 25 will deliver 20 more # than a 50 ft at that volume.
All this is somewhat moot as long as the work gets done. On a tool like a sander some loss isn't so critical, an impact may be. Same for sandblast, some line loss doesn't make so much difference and same for paint, can turn up the pressure a little to make up for it.