Air compressor filtration/drying requirements?

[bryanmartin]

Hi all. I'm brand new to this forum, and I figured I'd start right off with a question regarding a pending purchase.
I recently bought a new air compressor, it's slight overkill for my little 2-car garage, but I'd rather overkill than underkill. It's an 80 gal 5hp 240v two stage cast iron Eaton compressor. I'm working on hardwiring it in and plumbing the air lines. I have a question about filters/dryers.

I've been looking at 4 stage particulate filter/desiccate dryer systems in the $400-$500 range. Is this overkill? Considering that I won't be doing any painting with this compressor, rather it will be used for pneumatic hand tools and a blasting cabinet. I'm wondering if a filtration system more in the $100-$150 range would suffice. Any recommendations on systems?

 

[bcradio]

I don't use any filtration or drying on my home compressor. I just oil my tools used each time and that is sufficient. My goal was to not have anything obstructing airflow.

I do not use any tools that would require this though (i.e. painting, plasma, etc.)

 

[skruft]

For that purpose I would think all you would need would be a simple filter, or nothing. You could get an oiler if you wanted to oil the air tools automatically.

 

[sberry]

You want a filter/regulator. It can collect a little water and catches any debris coming from the unit or piping and with 2 stage it regulates to the correct pressure for air tools. I paint with a simple filter, do not have desiccant drying.
I have a 60 ft stretch of 1/2 black before it gets to my paint reel where I have another little filter on.

 

[sberry]

In a new 2 car put 1/2 valve off of unit for service and they what ever you want to a F/R. Maybe even a 25 ft 3/8 hose to get started which can become extra at some point. If I was going to use outside air may consider a 50 ft reel, maybe another one 25 in a 2 car for convenience. You don't need it everywhere like electric and I don't want to move sections of hose from one point to another. If the reels are in the ceiling need retractors.
Your comp is really only slightly overkill. The upside is it will do it all and allows for 2 stage secondary and will work real autobody tools if a guy had to make a living from it. A homebody will never wear it out. Couldn't.

 

[sberry]

I saw one a while back on a forum, 4000$ worth of **** to try to overcome all the problems one has from a 400$ compressor and that may be low. Found every idea they ever invented from the internet, safety to keep the safetys from failing and another one on top of that.
I have seen some very nice setups here with a single reel too. That is the place to start, can always add something if and when you find you need it.
Here is another one, only 1 QD at the tool and no other way for someone to use than what is provided.
Note, no "drip leg" on either. Its dry before it gets there but if something does come may as well end up in the filter vs sitting in the bottom of a pipe. This one has a HF hose on it been outside for 20 yrs. Doesn't leak but is past being trustworthy, I simply shut it off anymore when we don't need it. It goes outside thru that port now if needed to fill tires in winter or blow something off on the front apron. Pressure wash hose uses the same exit. I got some HF hose been on for 2 decades 24/7.

 

[sberry]

The black one in post 4 pic 3 is in the paint area and used only occasionally, also shut it all off with ball valve ahead of it most of the time. I move it in a remodel to its current location, serves the same area but saved 50 ft of pipe for something I really didn't use anyway.
This would be the benefit of using a simple hose setup to start with as you could really get a chance to see where things worked out and so easy to make changes to. I had a Bud who used a couple hoses his whole career.

 

[sberry]

This is like a wire feed welder. While I am all about being economical especially if it matters but if a guy has a little juice the extra in to a good compressor is well worth it. If its all you can afford and need to get work done its a different matter and if its worn out and needs replacement so what,,,,, but if a guy isn't sensitive to the cost an extra grand gets him something that can do it all and last forever.

 

[dutchgray]

I'm with Sberry on this, filter regulator before the point of use is all you need. I have used large compressors in various (usually farmers) small shops and I commonly see a filter reg strait of the tank, a Y and two quick release fittings with a couple air hose hung on the wall to choose from. Any more than a pair of air points by the tank, by the doors and by the work bench is a waste for home use in a two car and is already more than you actually need.

 

[sberry]

Nothing says a guy can't add as something comes up, I am all for tailoring. I hate to see investment up front which looks like a great idea at the time but ends up parked or never does work right.

 

[930dreamer]

You'll want dry air for the blast cabinet for sure and all tools for that matter. The key is for the air to cool off so the water can drop out and get removed. Are you using just the air hose?

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Dry air is nice, but 30 years fixing cars we've done without it... including blast cabinet and spraying. For the SATA guns, we use disposable desiccant filter at the gun. Granted body work isn't the bulk of the work, but its a good bit (including entire re-sprays).

The air setup includes a main reg/filter and a filter on each main leg (one for service side, other body). No automated luber, that's called Jonathan.

 

[engineer2]

During the humid months you can cool your compressed air to room temperature and the compressed air will still be at 100% humidity.
If you are spraying water droplets out of your air tools, you have an issue that needs to be addressed. Or it is really humid out.
If you see a slight fog when opening an air line, that is pretty normal if the ambient humidity is ~>40%.
As said, for air tools it's less critical if you keep them oiled.
If you ever decide to spray paint, filtered dry air essential.