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Air compressor help

colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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35
Location
Duluth, MN
Hello All!
I picked up this compressor for next to free, and didnt look at it too much before I got it. I finally gave it a whirl, after buying a H.F. regulator, and noticed a couple things. The original cord was replaced at some point in its life, and the switch was taken out of it. The 20 amp plug had one part twisted to fit into an 15 amp plug in. It also leaks air. I was wondering if you guys had any advice on how to either re-wire to power cord/ and a switch to it. Also, do any of you know of service manuals or any information on these compressors?
Thanks in advance!
Colsanders
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larry_g

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I assume that you have plugged it in and confirmed that it is coming up to pressure. If so then replacing the pressure switch and cord is the simple part. That is a compressor is sold through Grainger. They will also have information you need. If you have not confirmed the compressor runs and pumps then I would do that first.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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colsanders

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Location
Duluth, MN
It does run and build pressure. Its slow to build pressure but it does. Do you know where on the grainger website I find the pressure switch? I was looking on the Grainger website, and I couldn't find much as far as parts off of the model number.
 
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Smiliesafari

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Orlando, Florida
That's the same compressor that has been sold by Sears for years. I had one for 30 years. Always worked good. Any electrical supply house should be able to get you a pressure switch. Or maybe a plumbing supply house. Or maybe a well drilling outfit. I'd still have mine but some SOB walked off with it.
 

kams1973

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Amarillo, TX
A 95-115psi switch would be a good choice for that machine. I'd choose one with more than one port. This will accommodate the new pressure relief valve you should install. You probably want one with an on/off swich built into the pressure switch. They add a bit of convenience. As mentioned above, go with a generic equivilant.

Also, you mentioned an air leak. Where is the leak coming from? Plumbing? Pump? Bottom of the tank? If the tank itself is leaking, I'd recommend scrapping it.
 
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colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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Duluth, MN
I believe the leak in the plumbing, at least from feeling around. As far as a pressure switch and relief valve, is there how-tos or other information on how to install said parts? I am rather new to the air compressor game, and hope to learn more from all of your smart minds! Im starting to wonder if i went a bit over my head with the air comrpessor.
 
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colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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Duluth, MN
Does anyone know of general air compressor repair information? I am looking and can't find a whole lot. I just want to make sure i can tackle this thing before try.
Thanks!
 

bsaint

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Apr 26, 2010
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Manchester, CT
What kind of "general" question do you have? Like oil weight in the winter? Most technical compressor questions will be specific questions. What do you need to know?
 
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colsanders

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Duluth, MN
Are their available are service manuals? Im looking for how its wired, and how how I would wire in a new pressure switch. And any generals does/don'ts on having a compressor.
 
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bsaint

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There's a wiring diagram with any new pressure switch. generally its L1 L2 incoming power and T1 and T2 is motor side. If you don't feel confident in doing this, just have a electrician friend wire it. Its very simple.
 

kams1973

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Are the prongs on the end of the electric cord the same as your household receptacles? If so, your motor is wired for 120v.

I have a manual for these units somewhere buried in my stash. When I get back to the house (several days from now), I'd be more than happy to shoot you a copy of the pertinent information you desire.

In the meantime, surely a forum member can help this chap out by posting a close up photograph of their freshly wired 120v pressure switch.
 
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colsanders

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Duluth, MN
Alright guys, help is needed again. I ordered a switch(i'll prolly be shunned, it was from ebay.) I took your advice, and got the switch with 4 port, but am scratching my head now. I think i can figure out the wiring, but how does the switch hook into the compressor as far as knowing pressure and what not. I am sorry for all the noob questions! And am trying to learn!
 

frankush

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When you look at your compressor, both the power supply cord and the motor cord terminate in the old pressure switch body. Make sure you're unplugged, then disconnect the wires, and remove them from the body. The piece of metal tubing that attaches to the same body also needs to be disconnected. Make sure you have relieved the pressure in the tank before disconnecting the tubing. There is a valve at the bottom of the tank that will spit water and then air and will relieve the pressure in the tank. When the pressure is relieved, you'll have to disconnect the tubing and then unscrew the pressure switch body as a unit from the tank. I'll leave it to others to continue this dialogue.

Is the switch you bought new? Did it come with instructions? You got a compressor on the cheap and this is probably one of the easiest fixes. Post some more pics of what you got and we'll get you up and running, but you have to do the work.
 
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colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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Duluth, MN
Here are some pics of the new switch:
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It is a new switch that I picked up on ebay. Unfortunately, it didn't come with intstructions, and thats why I seek help!
 

Pumpman1968

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Oct 21, 2012
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Upstate, NY
Hey Boss....pretty easy. I believe it says " line" and "load" next to the terminals. "line" is your 120V from the receptacle and "load" is the motor. The 2 screws off by themselves near where the wiring goes into the switch is ground.
 
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colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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Duluth, MN
Hey Boss....pretty easy. I believe it says " line" and "load" next to the terminals. "line" is your 120V from the receptacle and "load" is the motor. The 2 screws off by themselves near where the wiring goes into the switch is ground.

I figured out that much. Its more the plumbing part of installing it that i'm unsure about.
 
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colsanders

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Oct 27, 2012
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Duluth, MN
Alright gents,
I have gotten the switch wired, plumbed, and its running. The only problem now when the tank gets to 100 psi, the existing pressure relief valve opens, and lets all the air out. I'm not sure of how to make that not happen? Any thoughts on how to make this not happen? Also, the little copper pipe i disconnected i had capped off to hear it run. Was that copper line the secret to make the relief valve not go off?
 
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