Air compressor Identification Help

[seaway]

Hello. I am new to the forum and a new owner of an air compressor I am looking get up and running. The tank is a 30 gallon Speedaire from 1970 - Model # 1Z985 and the pump appears to be a Saylor Beall SS704 (?). The crankcase is marked as WA 4048R. The motor is a 2hp Dayton (1725 rpms) and it is going to be gone through by a guy I know who runs a motor repair shop.

Can anyone tell me what I have here? It needs to be replumbed and I can't find any diagrams for this particular pump. All I can find is info on the 705 which has an after cooler. Mine does not have an after cooler. It needs new copper lines, and new gauges.

Other than that, I was told that the unit was in operation until the motor had problems at which point the owner began using another compressor he had on hand. Oil level looks good through the sight glass and though the oil is a bit dirty, it isn't sludge or anything.

Thanks.

 

[930dreamer]

Remove the belts and see if the motor will run, might be a bad capacitor under the half round cover on the of the motor. If it does run you will be able to hear if the bearing are good.

 

[seaway]

Remove the belts and see if the motor will run, might be a bad capacitor under the half round cover on the of the motor. If it does run you will be able to hear if the bearing are good.

I dropped the motor off this morning and already heard back that the bearings need to be replaced. I will have it back this afternoon. Guy said the rest of the motor is in good condition.

I am more interested in the pump and plumbing. This is my first attempt at doing anything compressor related other than turning the switch to "On" and draining it occasionally.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Does it say Made in USA anywhere? It looks like it might be an authentic Saylor Beall.

It's a single stage pump, which is why there is no intercooler.

 

[kams1973]

That pump has head unloaders and a centrifugal unloader. You won't need to plumb the head unloaders using an electric motor with a pressure switch. Also, if the pressure switch has a built in unloader, you won't have to plumb in the centrifugal unloader.

Based on the style of the centrifugal unloader, that is a very old pump.

Disregard the electric motor link. I'm not sure why my phone did that.

 

[seaway]

Got news back on the motor this morning and it is not good. Stator is bad and they can't locate another that will work. So it looks like I am on the hunt for a new (or used) motor as well. The motor that was there was a 2hp Dayton, 1725 RPM, 115/230.

I will need to brush up on the terminology, since I don't know what a head unloader or centirfugal unloader is. Are these good things? Any idea of age, if it is indeed authentic?

It does not say Made in USA anywhere that I have seen.

Here are a few other pics I took of the only numbers I could find on the pump. Cylinder, Cylinder Head and what I now think is the centrifugal unloader.

 

[md21722]

Centrifugal unloader allows for load-less starting without needing a tie into the pressure switch some. Champion and others also use a centrifugal unloader. Basically inside that front cylinder are two weights that spread apart when the pump is running and seal the unloader valve allowing the pump to build pressure.

Head unloaders allow for constant run operation with a pilot valve. This is feature is present on all pumps used on gas engines and is commonly found on contractor compressors used for roofing nailers, etc. It allows the pump to "free wheel" so the motor does not stop and start many times an hour/day.

 

[seaway]

Centrifugal unloader allows for load-less starting without needing a tie into the pressure switch some. Champion and others also use a centrifugal unloader. Basically inside that front cylinder are two weights that spread apart when the pump is running and seal the unloader valve allowing the pump to build pressure.

Head unloaders allow for constant run operation with a pilot valve. This is feature is present on all pumps used on gas engines and is commonly found on contractor compressors used for roofing nailers, etc. It allows the pump to "free wheel" so the motor does not stop and start many times an hour/day.

Thanks! That's good info. Now to figure out how to plumb it so it will run off the electric motor for running air tools like an impact wrench and ratchet.

 

[Trey T]

The head unloaders (the two towers on top of head) is used to relieve pressure onto the motor/engine when it's run continuously. It appears to be a SB 705 that was on a work truck w/ an engine that's about 10HP. I believe that 2HP will struggle to drive the 705

 

[seaway]

From what I have seen, the 705 is a 2 stage with an after cooler? This appears to be single stage (pistons look to be the same size, at least the housings are similar sized) and it has no after cooler.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

[md21722]

Well, your typical 703/705 technically has an "inter (stage) cooler". Just about all dual stage pumps have them one way or the other. Your best bet is to pick up the phone and call Saylor Beall (989) 224-2371. They can tell you what it is and what it isn't. Just be by the pump to read off any numbers and maybe have some photos you can email them. The folks at Saylor Beall are very easy to work with.

 

[Bcom]

Its a Saylor Beall
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-197750.html

 

[md21722]

Its a Saylor Beall
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-197750.html

That's why I suggested he call Saylor Beall and find out exactly what model it is.

 

[seaway]

I will give them a call tomorrow and see what I can find out.

 

[454ragtop]

What's your top secret location? Might have a 2-3 HP motor that would work if you're around here.

 

[seaway]

What's your top secret location? Might have a 2-3 HP motor that would work if you're around here.

Ha. Sorry, I will update my location. I am in Alexandria, VA. Outside DC.

I may have found a Dayton 1TMX6 2hp motor for short money. Is that even enough HP for the pump?

 

[454ragtop]

Ha. Sorry, I will update my location. I am in Alexandria, VA. Outside DC.

I may have found a Dayton 1TMX6 2hp motor for short money. Is that even enough HP for the pump?

Won't know till you ID the pump. Then you can look up the required motor size, and the recommended pulley size to match the motor HP.

 

[seaway]

Figured as much. The only numbers on the pump that I have found are on the crankcase, cylinder head, cylinder and centrifugal unloader valve.

I never knew that compressors were so involved... All I have ever done with them is hook up a hose and adjust the pressure. It's fascinating, really. And I appreciate all the help.

 

[md21722]

I was the same way. I built my own out of parts. Half your problem is that this thing is more than 40 years old and doesn't have the intercooler, but doesn't look like many of their single stage pumps either. Dual stage is really the way to go, so if this ends up getting expensive fast I would consider redirecting my efforts... BTDT.

 

[seaway]

I may have just figured some of it out. I think what I have is half of an SS708 on a 705 crankcase. The SS708 specific part numbers (4707 cylinder and 4703 head) match the part numbers found on my compressor according to the manual I got from Saylor Beall.

Now I need to figure out the motor portion.

 

[Dr Stan]

If the new to you motor is insufficient check out the offerings at the Surplus Center. Easy to find with Google.

Don't shoot me just yet, but I found a 10hp 120 gal 2 stage Champion and paid scrap price for it, $275. It had a 3 phase motor and it would have cost a whole lot for another phase convertor to handle a motor that size. So I found a used 10 hp single phase at a near by motor shop and was glad to pay $500 for it. That was way less than half of what it would have cost me for a phase convertor capable of handling a 10 hp motor.

So look around a bit before you commit to this compressor.

Also be aware of the compressors from big box & farm & garden stores. Even the IR branded compressors have a pump made in India & a motor from China. Not sure about the tank, but I think it is USA made.

 

[seaway]

I hear you. I don't have much into it at this point. Paid $100 for it knowing it needed work. I guess I anticipated it being a bit less pieced together than it seems to be.

 

[md21722]

$100 bucks is nothing these days, sure it is money, but relative to a new one, its nothing. If you could make it work, list it for 3X what you paid for it and buy something else. Just an idea.

 

[seaway]

Yeah, that's my thought as well. I would love to get it to work though. I mainly use the compressor I have now for lug nuts and other car related repairs, so it won't be constantly running for hours on end. Plus it seems like a fun project to figure out over the winter.

 

[redmondjp]

You've got a quality unit there that is worth spending some time and money on. You might be able to use a 3ish HP motor (which will probably be 3450rpm however) off of a dead single-stage compressor, with a smaller pulley on it. Once you know the exact pump model, you can get the specs for it to see if you can run it any faster with a higher HP motor (I suspect you could go up to at least a 3HP if not 5HP).

 

[seaway]

You've got a quality unit there that is worth spending some time and money on. You might be able to use a 3ish HP motor (which will probably be 3450rpm however) off of a dead single-stage compressor, with a smaller pulley on it. Once you know the exact pump model, you can get the specs for it to see if you can run it any faster with a higher HP motor (I suspect you could go up to at least a 3HP if not 5HP).

I think I would like to hang on to it. Something about having an old tool appeals to me. Maybe because it will go well with my old truck and old boat. I have access to a working 2hp 3450rpm motor right now, actually. The pulley on the motor that came with the compressor is already pretty small. I don't have it in front of me, but I would guess it to be about 3.5" or thereabout. Hopefully Saylor Beall can help me out today when I give them a call.