Air compressor lines question

[Ovidiu]

I recently bought one of the Lowe's 60 gal 220v 3.2hp compressors, and I have a few questions about plumbing it all up.

I've been looking at air regulators, filters and dessicants and all that, and I need to make a decision as to what size pipe I use to plumb it all up (I plan on using copper with some sharkbite fittings).

- I think the tank outlet is 3/4" NPT, what size should I use for the pipes? 3/4"? is 1/2" OK?
- most of the pressure regulators and inline filters I've seen are 3/8" NPT in size, where can I get the bigger ones?
- same for the flexible leader hose, I haven't been able to find a bigger than 3/8" one, and it would be pointless to constrict it right at the compressor outlet and open it up.
- I bought some rubber pads to mount the compressor on, so as not to have to drill the concrete, is this OK?

I may have more questions as I go, these would be a good start Thanks!

 

[akdiesel]

Go 3/4" for your runs and check Ebay for some 3/4" flex tubing or hose rated for your compressor output that has 3/4" mnpt.

 

[pinebarkauto]

The following website contains alot of useful info on plumbing up a compressor and airlines. http://www.tptools.com/. They also carry a flex pipe to go between your compressor and plumbing.

On my system, I used 1" pipe for a trunk line with 3/4" drops down the walls to a point of hook-up. There I have a 3/8"NPT Quick connect fitting. I have maybe 8 of these located around my shop. I made up a few filter/seperator assemblies with a 3/8"NPT inlet and a 1/4"NPT outlet. I don't regulate PSI at the compressor. By using 3/8"NPT at the drops, no one will inadvertantly hook up a 1/4" NPT airhose fitting to unregulated PSI (about 175 PSI on my compressor). By using the quick connects, I can just move a few regulators around to where I need them and not have to buy as many. I also put a drip leg at each point of hook-up that I drain periodically.

I also used rubber mounting pads that mount with a threaded rod that enabled me to level my compressor and also avoid the mounting bolts in the concrete. My compressor is a 7.5 HP unit with I believe a 80 gallon tank. I can't see any signs of movement. I got mine from McMaster-Carr.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Hydraulic hose shop can make up a 3/4 hose with male pipe thread ends in any length you want to connect the compressor to the wall mounted components.

Charles

 

[hayfarmer]

If you haven't fully decided on which product you are going to use check out GaragePak.com. I installed this product, and found it very easy to install and very durable. The downside is the cost.

 

[Lhorn]

I'd consider sweating the copper joints. Sharkbites look great/easy but if you want to make a few turns, correct drops (coming off the top and looping down), it's gonna add up really quickly. If you have a propane torch, you can get the supplies to sweat copper for not much money. Some stores carry joints with solder already in them.
As far as a hose to connect the compressor to your piping, I looked in the yellow pages under "hydraulic" found a place that makes hoses and got a 3 foot 1/2 inch hose with 1/2 inch NPT fittings on the ends for $12. This rubber hose is good to 300PSI. Not braided stainless, but cheap and will get the job done.
I used "L" copper but if I had to do it again, I'd save a few bucks and get "M" grade copper. It looks more than strong enough to me.

 

[Ovidiu]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will update this thread when I get something done... lately I've been crazy busy...

I think sweating the pipes could work, that's a good suggestion, at least for the more complicated shapes with many bends. I hadn't thought about how many of those are really needed, maybe I'll use sharkbites for connecting the main "segments".

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

For your flexible hose, try HF or Northern Tools they keep them in stock around this area. I would also use copper pipe, 3/4 mains, 1/2 drops and have fun...