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Air Compressor - New to Forums

66dave

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Boise!
I think you can use 60 to 80 gallon tank with compressor machine.Also increase the power supply unit with 1 to 2 phase units.

I am trying to understand your point of view, if the motor was capable of 220v why would he do this? Yes the current drops, but overall power consumption is equal, and it limits the portability due to availability of 220v recepticals. So what are the gains? Lower current meaning lesser chance of breakers popping is the only one.

If anything use a dedicated 20A curcuit.
 
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scw1991

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I think you can use 60 to 80 gallon tank with compressor machine.Also increase the power supply unit with 1 to 2 phase units.

Huh? What's a compressor machine?

Where does one find 2 phase power these days for residential applications?
 

89GLH

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Westminster, MD
Best thing I added to my Quincy was a 3/8" tube out the door to my driveway drain. Now I can burp it and water goes where it's supposed to, not all over me and my garage floor. Well worth $5.
 

sberry

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I got to agree. The near best way to do that is simple with a tube and kick it on occasion when you see an air comp thread on a forum.

Even if it is on 24/7 if you aired up 2 tires last week it doesn't make much water. I just walked out and did mine, I changed a half a dozen tires last week (tire machine) run a couple wheels of and on, blew a little dirt off but didn't sand a car or sandblast a frame etc. Nothing that ran more than a cycle or 2 at a time.
 
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OP
M

MechMatt

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I'm not going to pretend like I can add to your conversation. For now, all I can do is read and sponge what all of you are saying.

Thanks again guys
 

Bandit

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Portsmouth , Va as of 3/2016 / from Mass.
For those wondering what Copper Pipe to use when piping in Your Shops ?
X-Heavy Duty Type -K ( $$$$ ) Used in Commercial Applications from a pluming supply house .
Or just Use the More Common Type L at Home Cheapo / Lowe's .
PLEASE DON"T USE THE CHEAPER TYPE M
Bob
Ps
You might only have a 3 HP 20 Gal compressor Now , But Fall into a Killer Deal on a 5 or a 7 1/2 model down the road that You just can't pass up .
 
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pipsters

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I have the same compressor, but the 25 gallon horizontal version of it. It's very quiet. Pump runs around 700 RPM. I bought mine new in '07 for around $350! $200 is a steal for the condition it's in. Mine doesn't like even a 20 amp line next to my breaker panel, I had to put a 30 amp breaker on the compressor line. I noticed in the reviews of the older ones numerous people have had that issue. Hopefully they fixed it on the newer ones.

It's a great compressor and probably the best 120v unit you can buy out there. I put a synthetic blend compressor oil in mine instead of car oil. I bought it at Lowes for around $7 IIRC.
 

TK LP

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Middletown, Md.
For those wonderimzng what Copper Pipe to use when piping in Your Shops ?
X-Heavy Duty Type -K ( $$$$ ) Used in Commercial Applications from a pluming supply house .
Or just Use the More Common Type L at Home Cheapo / Lowe's .
PLEASE DON"T USE THE CHEAPER TYPE M
Bob
Ps
You might only have a 3 HP 20 Gal compressor Now , But Fall into a Killer Deal on a 5 or a 7 1/2 model down the road that You just can't pass up .

There is no reason not to use type M copper for air piping. It's rated working pressure is easily greater than the working pressure of a typical shop air system, as well as most compressor tanks. The weakest link in a copper system is solder joints, if you choose not to braze.


image.jpg
 

sberry

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Mine doesn't like even a 20 amp line next to my breaker panel, I had to put a 30 amp breaker on the compressor line. I noticed in the reviews of the older ones numerous people have had that issue. Hopefully they fixed it on the newer ones.
Especially near the panel, farther away helps.
 
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TK LP

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Wanna bet? There's reasons not to use copper period.

Sure, I'll take that bet. The company I work for has does considerable work in area transit (bus/train) maintenance facility construction. Design engineers seem to unanimously choose copper piping for their compressed air systems, and it's what the owners want.

And the Copper Development Association recommends it for compressed air systems:

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/select-tube/cth_2select_recom.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/select-tube/cth_2select_adv.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/technical-data/tables/cth_table3c.html

That said, I am curious to what your reasons not to use it would be. I know there are other options, but with the relative ease of installation, and it's cost in small bore installations, I think the logic for using copper is well supported, particularly in personal shop applications.
 

taumac

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tomshep

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Sep 24, 2011
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I have the same compressor, but the 25 gallon horizontal version of it. It's very quiet. Pump runs around 700 RPM. I bought mine new in '07 for around $350! $200 is a steal for the condition it's in. Mine doesn't like even a 20 amp line next to my breaker panel, I had to put a 30 amp breaker on the compressor line. I noticed in the reviews of the older ones numerous people have had that issue. Hopefully they fixed it on the newer ones.

It's a great compressor and probably the best 120v unit you can buy out there. I put a synthetic blend compressor oil in mine instead of car oil. I bought it at Lowes for around $7 IIRC.

Ditto. We have had the same experience. I also have the 25 horizontal. And it was on a 20 circuit and would sometimes pop it when kicking on. Great unit and quite. It will last you forever with proper service.

Tom
 

Bandit

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Portsmouth , Va as of 3/2016 / from Mass.
QUOTE=TK LP
There is no reason not to use type M copper for air piping. It's rated working pressure is easily greater than the working pressure of a typical shop air system, as well as most compressor tanks. The weakest link in a copper system is solder joints, if you choose not to braze.


QUOTE=TK LP
The company I work for has does considerable work in area transit (bus/train) maintenance facility construction. Design engineers seem to unanimously choose copper piping for their compressed air systems, and it's what the owners want.

Let Me take a Wild Guess
You are a Union ( Pipe fitter / Plumber ) ?
And all the Jobs that You Work on are Awarded to The Lowest Bidder ??

:rolleyes:
 

bsaint

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The company my dad works for was subcontracting work at Six Flags and charged an airline after maintenance was done on the compressor. A painter out in the park had a pvc elbow explode and impregnate his back with plastic. He tried to sue my dad's company when in fact we would never use PVC and it was the theme park builder who used it.

Copper or bust (poor choice of words?)
 

TK LP

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Middletown, Md.
QUOTE=TK LP
There is no reason not to use type M copper for air piping. It's rated working pressure is easily greater than the working pressure of a typical shop air system, as well as most compressor tanks. The weakest link in a copper system is solder joints, if you choose not to braze.


QUOTE=TK LP
The company I work for has does considerable work in area transit (bus/train) maintenance facility construction. Design engineers seem to unanimously choose copper piping for their compressed air systems, and it's what the owners want.

Let Me take a Wild Guess
You are a Union ( Pipe fitter / Plumber ) ?
And all the Jobs that You Work on are Awarded to The Lowest Bidder ??

:rolleyes:

Thanks for clearing that up. You read my profile. I got my 35 year pin little over two years ago. God willing, I can retire in six more. I am a licensed, bonded, and insured master plumber and gasfitter in seven jurisdictions in four states. I'm currently working on getting my HVAC\refrigeration licenses, and pressure vessel welders certification.

We enjoy repeat client work as well as design build, but unfortunately, the nature of the beast in mechanical contracting means we have to take competitive bid work. We aren't always low when we are awarded contracts. We have a good reputation, and owners and general contractors recognize our value.

I can only guess by the rolling eyes and the reference to professional affiliation you've got some kind of axe to grind. I don't really think this is a forum for that , so I'll bow out and let you have at it.
 

bsaint

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Manchester, CT
Huh? What's a compressor machine?

Where does one find 2 phase power these days for residential applications?

I think he means "split phase" a.k.a "three wire single phase" Even some home electricians call it "two phase" lol. If people don't believe me, put it on a scope and see for yourself there is just one phase.
 

Bandit

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Messages
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Location
Portsmouth , Va as of 3/2016 / from Mass.
Hi
TK LP
So I was right without reading your profile , the working on Goberment Job's gave Me My clue , Bus and Train Stations = MTA/Union /Lowest Bidder .
I have a lot of respect for what you have done with your life , just wait till you retire , you will have even less free time LOL .

I just had a problem with you implying that Type M Copper is fine for air lines , and that buying Type L for about $ 7.00 more a ten foot length was a waste of money .
I believe in Safety First and I have walked out on giving a quote when what the customer wanted done was what I considered unsafe . ( using Type M is one of them )

I have had customers ask if it is SAFE to use JB Weld or weld a patch on a tank ?
( they are usually looking for a pressure switch and a check valve , screw the safety )
I just tell them No and send them the link below .

The below Explosion was caused by using the wrong oil in a K-A air compressor resulting in one death .
Please Check out the pictures and Read The Report
http://www.cdc.gov/NIOSH/FACE/stateface/ca/05ca010.html
Bob
 
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Durka

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Mar 20, 2014
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341
Location
Howell, MI
Sure, I'll take that bet. The company I work for has does considerable work in area transit (bus/train) maintenance facility construction. Design engineers seem to unanimously choose copper piping for their compressed air systems, and it's what the owners want.

And the Copper Development Association recommends it for compressed air systems:

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/select-tube/cth_2select_recom.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/select-tube/cth_2select_adv.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/technical-data/tables/cth_table3c.html

That said, I am curious to what your reasons not to use it would be. I know there are other options, but with the relative ease of installation, and it's cost in small bore installations, I think the logic for using copper is well supported, particularly in personal shop applications.

Perhaps I'll right it out later. I have explained a few times in the past. In the mean time and if you want, you could click on my name, then go statistics. Search through my posts, I don't have that many here. You should be able to find it. For me, yea, maybe later. :thumbup:
 

unclerandy

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Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
For those wondering what Copper Pipe to use when piping in Your Shops ?
X-Heavy Duty Type -K ( $$$$ ) Used in Commercial Applications from a pluming supply house .
Or just Use the More Common Type L at Home Cheapo / Lowe's .
PLEASE DON"T USE THE CHEAPER TYPE M
Bob
Ps
You might only have a 3 HP 20 Gal compressor Now , But Fall into a Killer Deal on a 5 or a 7 1/2 model down the road that You just can't pass up .

Can you provide an explanation/proof for saying "type M" shouldn't be used?
 

Bandit

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
23
Location
Portsmouth , Va as of 3/2016 / from Mass.
Proof ? Sorry I don't have the names of any of the Insurance Inspectors or town or city code enforcement inspectors that asked to see what was being installed .
I have just done a I was trained when working for a large compressor company covering all the new england states .
Here are some resources you can read through .
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/astm-copper-tubes-d_779.html ( Notice Type M is Not listed for Compressed Air Use )

Also the Copper Tube Handbook by the Copper Development Association ( www.copper.org )
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth

Taken from the above handbook
" The copper tube handbook,available FREE from the Copper Development Association (www.copper.org) provides the following information:

1. Annealed (soft or coiled tubing) has a lower pressure rating than drawn copper tubing("copper pipe".

2. Even for the annealed type, in the 1/2", 3/4" range, 150 PSI is well below the basic pressure rating of the tubing itself, by at least 1/2.

however:

3. Brazed joints have a HIGHER mechanical strength than soft solder, but brazing considerably LOWERS the pressure rating of the system since brazing temperatures anneal the tubes and fittings. Brazed system has a pressure MAX of about 120 PSI.

4. The type of soft solder alloy used also affects the system rating:

a. Soldered with 50/50 Sn/Pb(tin-lead), types K,L,M in any size to 1" have a system rating of 150PSI MAX at 150ºF.


b. Soldered with 95/5 Sn/Sb(tin-antimony) the rating is 400 PSI at 150ºF.


So, you are potentially right at the outside limit of your materials . "

Please Note
What ever copper you use , only use 95/5 solder
Or just give up on copper and see if Hazard Fraught Tools is having a sale on hose's .
http://hooniverse.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/HF2.jpg
Bob
 
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