Air compressor oil weight

[junkyardjeff]

I have a 30 year old Campbell Hausfeld compressor that I can not remember what weight of oil its supposed to have,it had been sounding like it was about to blow pu so I had been putting in thicker oil but it was the key for the pulley on the pump that was bad and now that its quieter again I want to put the correct oil back in. 60 gallon tank 5HP motor if it makes any difference.

 

[IowaDon]

In all likelihood it calls for non-detergent SAE 30. Lots of guys run 10W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic.

I've run both in the past with no problems. If you think about it, the demands on the oil in a compressor pump are dramatically less than in an internal combustion engine.

 

[lakelandcat]

Big box stores have oil especially for comp. Go with the synthetic. no parifen to gum up the system, and synthetic lasts longer. I thing the viscosity is less than a 30w.

 

[junkyardjeff]

I was pricing synthetic compressor oil at TSC and was expensive,I will look for some that is cheaper.

 

[lakelandcat]

do ya put generic oil in your car? If so it's just oil, go for it.

 

[junkyardjeff]

Around 30 dollars for less then a gallon no way,it always got conventional car oil its whole life so I will get a quart of synthetic car oil before buying that compressor oil.

 

[matt_i]

The non-detergent oil "releases" dirt/crud particles to a quiet area of no flow, usually at the bottom of a housing or sump.

A detergent oil attempts to carry the particles in suspension to the oil filter.

So that's a good way to determine which oil to use based on oil filter or no.

I'd bite on Mobil Rarus 400 series for lack of better knowledge.

 

[lakelandcat]

wow how big is your comp.? it shouldn't take near that. good point Matt.

 

[pepi]

Go to the store and buy oil made for the COMPRESSOR .. what's the question?

Nothing last for ever, a routine oil change, like keeping a tire at the proper pressure will give the longest life.

As the BS about magic chemistry is just that BS. Most of all the home grown recipes posted on web sites.

Greg

 

[bob15]

Around 30 dollars for less then a gallon no way,it always got conventional car oil its whole life so I will get a quart of synthetic car oil before buying that compressor oil.

Why not buy the correct oil for the compressor? Compressor oil has an additive package designed for compressors.

Would you run compressor oil in your car, instead of motor oil?

I had good luck with RP (can be bought on amazon and many parts stores): http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/synfilm-recip-100-reciprocating-air-compressor-oil/

 

[junkyardjeff]

The manual is MIA but I thought it said use regular motor oil in it but can not remember the weight it said to use,its lasted 30 years using it so it can not be all that bad for it.

 

[bob15]

Did you actually try doing a google search? I did and found this in 1.2 seconds: https://campbellhausfeld.com/oil-compressor-16oz-mp12-st125312av.html?category_id=344

 

[junkyardjeff]

No I did not Google it,just curious on what others used in their compressors.

 

[EOC_Jason]

The big box stores sell regular & synthetic compressor oil.

You can get plain non-detergent 30W oil at auto parts stores...

Key is non-detergent. Regular motor oil will carry particles instead of letting them settle, and will also foam up and get up in your reed valves and gum that up with a bunch of black crud you have to scrape off with a razor blade...

 

[junkyardjeff]

It has 10w40 in it for now until I can get some non detergent this week.

 

[marinusdees]

The manual is MIA but I thought it said use regular motor oil in it but can not remember the weight it said to use,its lasted 30 years using it so it can not be all that bad for it.

Motor oil has detergent(s) in it which attack the sleeve bearings in most compressors. That being said, I really don't know how much of a problem this is. I use 20 or 30 weight non-detergent oil, purchased from any parts store. 5 horse DeVillBiss. bought used, used non-detergent 20 weight when I changed it. Must be at least 39 years old, I'm 80, so it doesn't have to last much longer.

 

[junkyardjeff]

Since I thought it was ready to blow I had been using 20w50 in it for the last few years,it had to go so 10w40 is in it now and noticed it builds up pressure quicker. I will shop around for a better priced compressor oil this week,the pump on this thing is tired and do have another compressor waiting to take its place but it might go in the basement so I can have air in the house and would not get used as much as it does in the garage.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Using synthetic makes the pump run so much easier, especially in cold weather.

 

[IowaDon]

$5.00/quart or $16.00/gallon (gallon's on sale this week): Powermate[emoji768] All-Weather Compressor Oil at Menards
https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444439595849.htm

They also carry synthetic for $10/qt & $35/gal.

 

[redmondjp]

Motor oil has detergent(s) in it which attack the sleeve bearings in most compressors. That being said, I really don't know how much of a problem this is. I use 20 or 30 weight non-detergent oil, purchased from any parts store. 5 horse DeVillBiss. bought used, used non-detergent 20 weight when I changed it. Must be at least 39 years old, I'm 80, so it doesn't have to last much longer.

Where does this information come from?

Detergents in the oil don't attach sleeve bearings, which are the same as bearings in automotive engines. Are you thinking of babbitted bearings like my 1941 Chevrolet used to have? I do remember the caution about not using detergent oil in that case.

If you bother to read the instruction manuals for many new air compressors now, they actually recommend using synthetic motor oil. I just put M1 5W-30 in my friend's Chinook K-30 pump, and I'm going to use M1 10W-30 in my Curtis E-57 that sits outside my shop.

I recommend that everybody do their own research and reach their own conclusion. I was in the non-detergent oil camp until I almost smoked my (other) compressor motor when it couldn't start this winter inside my attached garage. Synthetic oil is thinner at lower temps and I won't have this problem.

YMMV

 

[marinusdees]

Where does this information come from?

Detergents in the oil don't attach sleeve bearings, which are the same as bearings in automotive engines. Are you thinking of babbitted bearings like my 1941 Chevrolet used to have? I do remember the caution about not using detergent oil in that case.

If you bother to read the instruction manuals for many new air compressors now, they actually recommend using synthetic motor oil. I just put M1 5W-30 in my friend's Chinook K-30 pump, and I'm going to use M1 10W-30 in my Curtis E-57 that sits outside my shop.

I recommend that everybody do their own research and reach their own conclusion. I was in the non-detergent oil camp until I almost smoked my (other) compressor motor when it couldn't start this winter inside my attached garage. Synthetic oil is thinner at lower temps and I won't have this problem.

YMMV

Synthetic is not necessarily detergent. That being said, this information comes from my buddy who owns and operates All Electric Motor Service in Puyallup Wa. Bronze bearings are not necessarily sleeve bearings. Detergent eats bronze bearings. Do what you wish to do with this (mis??)information. I am not wealthy enough to ever have owned an expensive compressor, so have never been able to read the instruction manual. Anyway, I am not conversant in the English language, so would not benefit from reading said manual. Thank you for a critique of my comments, uninformed as they were. I will continue to use non-detergent 20 or 30 weight oil in my compressor. I am 80 years old, and am relatively confident that my compressor will outlive me.

 

[junkyardjeff]

There must be something to it since the guy at the electric motor shop said to always use non detergent oil when oiling the bearings in electric motors,my compressor has lasted exactly 30 years on detergent oil but lately I noticed a metalic sheen to the oil when I drain it so the pump is most likely tired. Since I have one lawn tractor that seems to like non detergent oil better I will try non detergent in the compressor and see how much longer it will last.

 

[bob15]

Synthetic is not necessarily detergent. That being said, this information comes from my buddy who owns and operates All Electric Motor Service in Puyallup Wa. Bronze bearings are not necessarily sleeve bearings. Detergent eats bronze bearings. Do what you wish to do with this (mis??)information. I am not wealthy enough to ever have owned an expensive compressor, so have never been able to read the instruction manual. Anyway, I am not conversant in the English language, so would not benefit from reading said manual. Thank you for a critique of my comments, uninformed as they were. I will continue to use non-detergent 20 or 30 weight oil in my compressor. I am 80 years old, and am relatively confident that my compressor will outlive me.

I think you might be referring to the EP oil additive in GL5 gear oil and how they attack yellow metals versus using GL4 oil. This has nothing to do with detergent or non-detergent oil.

You might want to read this about oil and electric motors:

Century Electric Motors: https://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/Motor-Doctor-Article.aspx?LangType=1033&id=772

 

[bob15]

There must be something to it since the guy at the electric motor shop said to always use non detergent oil when oiling the bearings in electric motors,my compressor has lasted exactly 30 years on detergent oil but lately I noticed a metalic sheen to the oil when I drain it so the pump is most likely tired. Since I have one lawn tractor that seems to like non detergent oil better I will try non detergent in the compressor and see how much longer it will last.

Here are some non-detergent synthetic compressor oils that are designed with additive packages for compressors (and not autos):

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_Synfilm_Recip.pdf

http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/56-158-td.pdf

https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=339970&docFormat=PDF

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66-media/products/product_data_sheets/d20b6338-db0e-4e6e-8484-32265482b09b/original/Air_Compressor_Oil.pdf?1481657819

http://www.lelubricants.com/lit/flyers/9032-9150%209220-9460%20Product%20Info.pdf?_ga=2.123623563.1074827655.1522102885-114270087.1522102885

 

[platypus20]

my campbell-hausfield compressor calls for 5w-30 mobil 1, per the manual

 

[BitFlipr]

I run Mobil 1 in my compressor and drain it into a bottle for use in the lawn mower.

 

[marinusdees]

I think you might be referring to the EP oil additive in GL5 gear oil and how they attack yellow metals versus using GL4 oil. This has nothing to do with detergent or non-detergent oil.

You might want to read this about oil and electric motors:

Century Electric Motors: https://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/Motor-Doctor-Article.aspx?LangType=1033&id=772

I stand by what I said. I can't read.

 

[Roberts210]

It's not the bearings that need non-detergent oil. The head, valves and pistons need it because detergent oils will dry out and create crud on the head, valves and piston tops. Non-detergent oils do not dry out nearly as readily.

Case in point. Old Monkey Ward 20 gallon compressor from the 1970's. I knew the man who I bought it from. Non-detergent oil was used in it all it's life. This is what the head looked like when I pulled it.

Versus a similar compressor that had had detergent motor oil used in it all it's life. The screw getting sucked in didn't help it any, but that's why it was disassembled. The same chemicals that make an oil a "detergent oil" also make it dry out.

 

[junkyardjeff]

I had to remove the head from mine that had detergent oil all its life did not have anything on the head,it had to come apart due to a reed valve coming loose and braking the head.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Just run the compressor oil unless your compressor is a worn out beater. Then, who cares?

If it is nice, new, or you want it to last for 40 years, run the synthetic. It's a better lube, handles heat and cold better, and doesn't sludge as bad. There are two different base stocks used to make synthetic oil. Use the one for recips. Don't search for the cheapest possible lube. (Some are mostly conventional.) Try to buy from an industrial source.

Using a new air filter and a quart or so of $9 oil once a year will not bankrupt anyone. Your compressor will survive using the wrong oil. It will survive never changing its oil. It will survive running with no intake filters, no water separators, and never draining your tank. Abuse and neglect the hell out of it.

You will be happier with it if you maintain it correctly.

 

[srr]

Harbor Freight sells USA made compressor oil. It's cheap and isn't thick like 30W ND.

 

[junkyardjeff]

Harbor Freight sells USA made compressor oil. It's cheap and isn't thick like 30W ND.

I forgot about checking there but the two stores are no where close to the house and not really worth spending the gas to get one item so I will check it out the next time I am in the area.

 

[EOC_Jason]

That is more or less what the head of a Sandborn compressor I had to pull the head on looked like. Pretty much knew it was from regular motor oil.

Cleaned the plates with a brass brush, and scraped the reeds with a razor blade. Looked as good as new...

Refilled with Amsoil synthetic compressor oil... ran noticeably smoother and a little more quiet (though that was probably also due to a staple was stuck in a reed when I took it apart!)

Versus a similar compressor that had had detergent motor oil used in it all it's life. The screw getting sucked in didn't help it any, but that's why it was disassembled. The same chemicals that make an oil a "detergent oil" also make it dry out.

 

[ScottsGT]

Rebuilding my compressor. Do the break it with 30W non detergent then switch over to Mobil 1?
Or Mobil 1 from the start?

 

[Lelandwelds]

Rebuilding my compressor. Do the break it with 30W non detergent then switch over to Mobil 1?
Or Mobil 1 from the start?

Not the greatest of ideas to change oils. Possibly different base stocks and ph. Add base to acid get a salt plus water.

Mobil makes a lot of products. They call the compressor oils "rarus". The ones for screws use a different base stock. I haven't a clue what all the minutia and jargon means.

Are you planning to use motor oil? Why? NAPA, Zoro, industrial supplies, and other sources have the good stuff. Why try to buy industrial items from retail?