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Air Compressor Oil?

just1more

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Jan 30, 2011
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178
Thinking its time to change the oil in my air compressors. My large compressor is a 3 phase- Quincy, 2 stage, piston pump, The others are single stage piston pumps.

I just did a quick search on NAPA's site. It shows non detergent 30wt "air compressor" oil at $7.99 a quart!

Farm & Fleet shows Porter Cable AC oil for $4.89/qt.

O'reilly has a gallon of "Pure Guard" brand Compressor Oil for $12.99/ Gal.


What oil do you guys use in your compressors?

Any reason not to go for the Pure Guard from O'reilly's?
 
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6-Speed

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Mar 6, 2012
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I just did an oil change on my IR Garage Mate with IR All Season Select synthetic oil.
 

87Pomona

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In the Garage
Recently changed the oil on my 23 Gallon Ciasons compressor, went to Oreily's and picked up the Pure Guard 30w Non-Detergent oil. I was originally going with Napa oil but it was out of stock.

The Pure Guard oil is made in the USA, if it matters to you.
 

jrsulo

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New Jersey
Just changed mine,,,,,20wt non detergent,got mine on amazon,12 quarts for 29.99,free shipping !!
 

crewchief

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Apr 23, 2013
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As a compressor field service technician, I recommend 30wt non detergent oil. Best to buy a five gallon pale. I use compressorparts.com to buy my oil. Good luck!
 

37ford4dr

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Jan 5, 2012
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Arlington Va
zorotools has ingersol rand all season select synthetic air compressor oil for $12 $ quart. orders over $50 have free shipping and if you buy it off of ebay its $12 a qt and $5 shipping.

i just ordered 2 qts and one of those 25' flexilla air hoses. with a $5 off coupon code....total order $46. its hard to beat that
 

pepi

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Woodstock, GA
I think the idea is to change the oil, owners manual will tell what type to use. That would be my guide, go by what the manufacture suggest, change the oil every spring. Changing oil is more about changing the oil regularly, my opinion there is a false sense of what oil life actually is. So to be sure to have good running equipment I change compressor oil yearly, same deal for the yard stuff.

If I were running my equipment as in a manufacturing environment, I would watch the oil to change color and change it then. I change oil in my HotRods when it goes from clear to brown, am I changing it to early? Some will say yes, but the tear down of the motor says just right, machines will tell you stuff if looking.

Here this should answer you question about oil for your compressor:

http://www.quincycompressor.com/con...ne-quincy-compressor-parts-a-oil#.UYxXRo64I0o


Spending the money to buy a quality machine and then pinch pennies on the supplies is an oxymoron JMO

Rock on
Greg
 
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Fixnair

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Sapulpa OK
With an air compressor, lighter weight is better than heavier weights. 30 weight is the heaviest I would use and the ambient temperature should not fall below 40*. 20 weight if the temps are not going to exceed 110*. 20 weight is the best all around oil. Most compressors are splash lubricated.
If the owners manual says any thing different then go with what they say. But with 30 weight below freezing temps will not splash enough to lube the wrist pins and cylinder walls.
 

Givl Reggin

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Why a "non detergent" oil? I've seen that recommendation from time to time, but never understood why. The one and only time I changed the oil in my compressor I refilled it with Mobil-1 10w30 - I use that oil in *everything* (cars, tractors, generators, etc.) it saves me from having to buy multiple viscositys and trying to remembering what goes where.
 

TwoInch

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Why a "non detergent" oil? I've seen that recommendation from time to time, but never understood why. The one and only time I changed the oil in my compressor I refilled it with Mobil-1 10w30 - I use that oil in *everything* (cars, tractors, generators, etc.) it saves me from having to buy multiple viscositys and trying to remembering what goes where.

with engines(pumps) without filtration systems, you prefer a non-detergent oil over a regular detergent motor oil for two reasons. they are better suited for air cooled engines(or pump) that tend to get really hot. detergents can cause carbon buildup problems when they burn off. the second reason is that engines(or pumps) that are air cooled, generally also do not have oil filtration systems. detergent oils are designed to keep particulates suspended in the oil, so they are carried to the filter and removed, reducing sludge buildup. non-detergent oils allow these particulates to settle in the crankcase(sludge), and not end up being splashed back into your engine(or pump) surfaces, bearings, cylinders, etc... compressor pump oil wont turn dark like motor oil, because there is no combustion happening, but you are still getting wear particulates from the bearing surfaces and cylinder/piston. you want as little of that to be recirculated as possible

this is also the reason that our motor oils these days darken up so quickly after an oil change. all the carbon and particulates are suspended in the oil instead of sludging up your motor. this is also why judging motor oil life or quality by color or darkness is not at all appropriate. :thumbup:
 
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TwoInch

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Why a "non detergent" oil? I've seen that recommendation from time to time, but never understood why. The one and only time I changed the oil in my compressor I refilled it with Mobil-1 10w30 - I use that oil in *everything* (cars, tractors, generators, etc.) it saves me from having to buy multiple viscositys and trying to remembering what goes where.

using 30 weight oil "in everything" is probably not the best route to take if you are interested in the best possible longevity of your engines. oil viscosity and engine design are more important than many believe. they dont make different oil weights for the hell of it.

just a thought
 

bcradio

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New Mexico
As a compressor field service technician, I recommend 30wt non detergent oil. Best to buy a five gallon pale. I use compressorparts.com to buy my oil. Good luck!

5 gallons? Seems a little excessive if you ask me... even the 12 quarts mentioned above seems excessive
 

Givl Reggin

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using 30 weight oil "in everything" is probably not the best route... they dont make different oil weights for the hell of it.

I'm sure you're right, but we're not talking about Space Shuttles here, if it breaks I can buy another one quite easily. I have seen manuals that recommend straight 30-weight, but then say multi-vis 10w30 is acceptable too.
 
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