air compressor oil

[36tbird]

I just drained the oil out of my 40 year old 2 HP Craftsman compressor. It has been sitting a lot and I thought I'd clean it up for maybe another 40 years of use. There was a lot of sludge in the crankcase and I ran some ATF with Acetone through it with the bottom drain open so that there was no load on it. The sludge reminded me of what you see in the bottom of an old flathead Ford when you take them apart. Sure enough, I read the bottle of air compressor oil and it is non-detergent. Is there a better alternative for the oil or is non-detergent the right stuff to use in an air compressor?

 

[Gary S]

Get the owners manual and use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. My compressor calls for "compressor oil". I use it. Use whatever yours needs.

 

[nehog]

Personally I use 30 weight (or 10W-30) good quality (usually synthetic) motor oil usually. No problems with sludge, change every five or so years. Check level every six to 12 months.

 

[BPJOOP93]

synthetic compressor oil. i think the bottle i have is made by coleman.

 

[Falcon67]

I use 30wt non detergent in mine. Most of the other machines that take oil use 20wt non detergent. Technically, I think you want the "sludge" - there's no oil filter and detergent oil keeps **** in suspension for removal by the filter. In a stationary deal, you'd like the crud to fall out at the bottom.

 

[HDNewf]

I just drained the oil out of my 40 year old 2 HP Craftsman compressor. It has been sitting a lot and I thought I'd clean it up for maybe another 40 years of use. There was a lot of sludge in the crankcase and I ran some ATF with Acetone through it with the bottom drain open so that there was no load on it. The sludge reminded me of what you see in the bottom of an old flathead Ford when you take them apart. Sure enough, I read the bottle of air compressor oil and it is non-detergent. Is there a better alternative for the oil or is non-detergent the right stuff to use in an air compressor?

At the Home Depot store I work at, we sell Husky brand air compressor oil. It is a regular SAE 30 non-detergent mineral oil. We do not have any synthetic option. Looking at a couple of Campbell Hausfeld portable compressor manuals, they say: “Use SAE 30 industrial grade air compressor oil or full synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 10W-30. Do not use regular automotive oil such as 10W-30. Additives in regular motor oil can cause valve deposits and reduce pump life”.

Since I know that Mobil 1 is an automotive oil with detergent and dispersant additives, I called Wendy at Campbell Hausfeld and asked why. She told me that the current recommendation is to ONLY use non-detergent oils, regardless of whether they are mineral or synthetic base. So no Mobil 1 or any other type of engine oil.

I hope this helps,

HDNewf

 

[36tbird]

Thanks for the info, all. I ran it a few times through with ATF and acetone to do a cleansing. Loaded it with generic air compressor oil from a big box franchise and we'll see how it goes. Later, Lou

 

[m.james]

I think it should be fine as long as you use compressor oil. Let us know how that goes.

 

[malibu101]

I've been told (but I've been lied to before too) that you should use non-detergent oil in anything without an oil filter. And that you should use detergent oil in anything with an oil filter.

 

[JCQuick]

do not put detergent oil in a non detergent engine or compressor it will clean the sludge from the bearings and start knocking or worse.
Back in the day VW wanted there motors broken in with non detergent oil 500 miles cahnge it for detergent. I know someone that use non detergent for many many years then switched to detergent motor went south in 10 miles.

the quote I saw above about filter vs non filter well most of the vw air cooled engines have a strainer (only good for catching large items) and detergent is recomended.
I've spent 25+ years behind a parts counter never heard that one before

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Since I know that Mobil 1 is an automotive oil with detergent and dispersant additives, I called Wendy at Campbell Hausfeld and asked why. She told me that the current recommendation is to ONLY use non-detergent oils, regardless of whether they are mineral or synthetic base. So no Mobil 1 or any other type of engine oil.

I hope this helps,

HDNewf

Yes, that way they can sell more pumps! the compressor with Mobil I has a rated life of 30,000 hrs (at least my Husky 7.5 hp does) but with 30 wt mineral oil the life decreases to something like 5,000 hrs.

I'll keep using the Mobil I in mine.

Charles

 

[Gary S]

I much prefer using a synthetic compressor oil over Mobil 1. While motor oil will work in a compressor, it makes sense that compressor oil designed specifically for a compressor is better.

 

[RobSmith]

A compressor doesn't make soot or carbon like a combustion engine so a detergent isn't needed.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I've been told (but I've been lied to before too) that you should use non-detergent oil in anything without an oil filter. And that you should use detergent oil in anything with an oil filter.

Quincy QR-25 series compressors use an oil pump and a spin on automotive style oil filter but they still spec out Quincy synthetic non detergent compressor oil. Detergent oils are designed to remove combustion deposits from ICE engines.

 

[jeff77indy]

I snagged 5 gal. of synthetic Joy rotary screw compressor oil from work. We replaced the old compressor and we can't use it in the new compressor because of warranty issues. We had a 55 gal drum of it that was going to be scrapped.
Will this oil work in my Sanborn BlackMax 5 hp, 2 stage compressor?

Thanks
Jeff

 

[36tbird]

As I said before, I cleaned it out by running an ATF/acetone mixture. (Seems like I read on another forum that was a good penetrator for loosening stuck flathead Ford valves for removal.) Ran that through 3 times and saw the sludge steadily diminish on the drainages. Finally, I figured I would just put in the non-detergent compressor oil I had on hand and run the thing with the intent to drain and replace the oil again in a few months if it holds together.

I hear a little bit of crustiness moving around in the tank and it has big access hole plugs on each end. I tapped on the bottom of the tank and it appears sound. The access hole plugs do not seem to be willing to come off easily as I tried some long bars on a giant pipe wrench. Looks like I will have to apply heat around those to get them to cooperate. Any tips on what can be applied to the inside of a tank to prolong its life?

 

[IndyGarage]

I use 30wt non detergent in mine. Most of the other machines that take oil use 20wt non detergent. Technically, I think you want the "sludge" - there's no oil filter and detergent oil keeps **** in suspension for removal by the filter. In a stationary deal, you'd like the crud to fall out at the bottom.

This is correct. That sludge at the bottom of the compressor is full of the bits of junk and metal that ground off the moving parts.

If you used detergent oil, or synthetic oil, they wouldn't sludge to the bottom they would be floating and recirculate through the system. There's no filter to get them out of the oil.

I can't imagine on a broken in compressor that it matters too much as long as you change the oil periodically. If you are one that leaves the stuff in there for 30 years, you might want to use the non-detergent oil.

 

[malibu101]

If you used detergent oil, or synthetic oil, they wouldn't sludge to the bottom they would be floating and recirculate through the system. There's no filter to get them out of the oil.

So what I once heard (see post #9) is true from what you are saying. Thanks!

 

[HDNewf]

I've been told (but I've been lied to before too) that you should use non-detergent oil in anything without an oil filter. And that you should use detergent oil in anything with an oil filter.

+1 RobSmith
I agree that the main factor is whether the application is engine related or not.

Small engines even without an oil filter like you find on lawn mowers, tillers, etc. should run engine oil which has detergents, friction modifiers and dispersants. As noted previously, Old VW flat fours had only a screen rather than a pleated paper oil filter.

Electric motors, pump bearings and air compressors would not benefit from the engine oil additives. As such a non-detergent oil makes more sense for them.

Synthetic engine oil will likely have smaller amounts of friction modifiers and viscosity improving additives than regular engine oil, but will still have the detergent additives.

HDNewf

 

[KB9MDQ]

At the Home Depot store I work at, we sell Husky brand air compressor oil. It is a regular SAE 30 non-detergent mineral oil. We do not have any synthetic option. Looking at a couple of Campbell Hausfeld portable compressor manuals, they say: “Use SAE 30 industrial grade air compressor oil or full synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 10W-30. Do not use regular automotive oil such as 10W-30. Additives in regular motor oil can cause valve deposits and reduce pump life”.

Since I know that Mobil 1 is an automotive oil with detergent and dispersant additives, I called Wendy at Campbell Hausfeld and asked why. She told me that the current recommendation is to ONLY use non-detergent oils, regardless of whether they are mineral or synthetic base. So no Mobil 1 or any other type of engine oil.

I hope this helps,

HDNewf

For those surfing old threads, CF now (12/2016) says on their Faq page that they now also recommend 10w30 full synthetic oil motor oil (Mobil 1, etc.) as an acceptable alternative. I believe IR is same.

Never use a 30W or xxWxx detergent motor oil.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Personally I use 30 weight (or 10W-30) good quality (usually synthetic) motor oil usually.

synthetic compressor oil. i think the bottle i have is made by coleman.

Either compressor synthetic or regular motor oil synthetic. Both will work.

I am never a fan of "flushing" with anything except the same type of oil. We are talking about uch less than a quart. Refill, run until hot, drain, refill.

 

[JJThrasher]

I just use compressor oil under the same brand as the compressor in mine. I figure that's what the manufacture is speccing to be in there.

At work we dump whatever is laying around into the compressors. Sometimes it straight out of the bulk tank of Valvoline 5w30. Sometimes its leftover gear oil. To be fair the big compressor has had a blown head gasket since before I started working there.