Air Compressor Operating Temperature Range?

[Lyaec350]

Just as the title says... is there a maximum/minimum operating temperature for reciprocating style air compressors? Is it just the limit of the oil pour/boil points? Cars start fine in -40*... air compressor should be fine till it warms up too correct?

 

[engnerdan]

I run amsoil synthetic in my recip compressor and have had no problems with it over the last couple weeks when its been 0* out. It starts and does not seem to be under any additional load from cold oil. The problem I have had with it being this cold is the regulator freezing up and the drain pipe on the bottom freezing up.

-Dan

 

[Lyaec350]

That shouldn't be a problem, the reg will be inside the heated shop and only 2 drains (tank and first up leg) will be outside... don't anticipate that much water in the lines in winter, because the air is so dry naturally.

 

[Ripp]

I have had problems with a couple 110v compressors popping a breaker on startup in very cold weather after they have sat idle along time..If I drain down the tank 1st it usually cures it..The oil(straight 30)gets pretty thick and the added load on startup pops a breaker.
Letting it start on a empty tank and running a cycle warms the oil enough it does fine after that.

 

[SteveU]

You would do good to run a synthetic compressor oil. I also use Amsoil PCK and have ran my compressor at 0*F no problem. The thing about non synthetics or 'dino oil' is that they gel up at much higher temps than a synthetic will. For example, the PCK will pour down to -49* F where a non synthetic will be jello before it gets down to 0*F. People living in the south where it doesn't get that cold or those whose compressors are kept in a heated location can run about any oil but for my application (unheated shop, temps reaching down to -10*F in the winter, when I need air I need air & waiting for the oil to ungel isn't an option) synthetic is the only way to go. Considering that your pump will only take 2 qts max unless you have a monster machine, the extra $2-3/qt for a good synthetic will buy you a lot of operating flexibility for very little money.

 

[Lyaec350]

Good to know. So basically the consensus is that with the proper oil a compressor could be start up in 0* weather? The shed would be insulated and I assume that they give off enough heat as to heat up a little shed pretty quickly without baffles or vents open...

 

[nissan_crawler]

Our air compressor sat for 15 years in an unheated shop in -35* north dakota winters with an AVERAGE temp of 12*, with dino oil that was changed once in that period. It also ran for over a day 2-3 times when a line went out, it was never shut off for the 15 years. It worked fine the day we sold the farm.

 

[SteveU]

Good to know. So basically the consensus is that with the proper oil a compressor could be start up in 0* weather? The shed would be insulated and I assume that they give off enough heat as to heat up a little shed pretty quickly without baffles or vents open...

Yes, with the right oil it will start at temps way below what you will want to be out there working on something in. The only problem I have with my compressor in the real cold temps is the drain pipe in the bottom freezes up & I'll have to turn the salamander on it a few min so that the auto drain will work. What I've took to doing is closing the tank valve when I'm done using it & blow the water off to keep the pipe clear. Problem I had when I didn't do this was it would kick on when I wasn't out there, make water & then freeze the drain. Since I've been turning the valve off it doesn't run when I'm not there so this isn't a problem anymore. Only other option was to leave the auto drain plugged in all the time but this is cheaper & easier. I also use the same oil for lubing my air tools so it does double duty

 

[SteveU]

I have had problems with a couple 110v compressors popping a breaker on startup in very cold weather after they have sat idle along time..If I drain down the tank 1st it usually cures it..The oil(straight 30)gets pretty thick and the added load on startup pops a breaker.
Letting it start on a empty tank and running a cycle warms the oil enough it does fine after that.

Pick up a qt of synthetic & see if it allows you to start up without having to bleed the tank down. I always leave mine aired up & it starts just fine at any temp I've had so far. Compressor is a 5 hp Eaton which is plated for 22-25 amps but draws 19.5 according to my clamp meter. Would be interesting to take a amp draw reading with the 30w then change to synthetic & see if it makes any difference.