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Air Compressor Output Cooling

KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
Not to stir up any envy here, but I was given an 80-gallon Ingersoll-Rand SSN5 18 CFM compressor for free. The compressor is only a few years old and had been used in a production cabinet shop.

It was being used to simultaneously drive several DA sanders, HVLP spray guns and other high-volume air tools. The compressor failed twice under warranty and was replaced by Ingersoll-Rand. Just after the warranty expired, the compressor failed a third time. As a customer service gesture, Ingersoll-Rand offered the owner a free total overhaul kit. The compressor was professionally rebuilt but by the time it was finished, it had been replaced by a gargantuan Quincy.

To be fair to Ingersoll-Rand, the SSN5-- it's the same unit as sold by Tractor Supply-- was way underpowered for the demands being placed on it the large production shop. Despite its large capacity, it's only a single-stage unit.

At any rate, I was given the compressor totally disassembled with several missing parts. I found out the hard way that there have been several minor design changes in the SSN5 that differ from the factory manual. So it took me several online orders to Ingersoll-Rand to get most everything I needed. (I ended up fabricating the small line that feeds the pressure switch from the tank stem since neither Ingersoll-Rand engineering nor parts was able to provide me a part number for the factory line. The one listed in the manual was two inches too short-- I know, I bought it. At any rate, I think my fabricated line looks better than stock.) I also added a few of my own touches:

-- An extended 1/4-inch ball drain valve to replace the useless stock radiator-style drain-- a monstrosity of cost-cutting engineering stupidity for a fairly high-end consumer compressor.

-- An extended crankcase drain with a nice knurled screw valve similar to what I used to have, albeit on a larger scale, on the Cessna 172 that I racked up a lot of hours in.

-- Hockey puck feet courtesy of my brother [thanks Don].

With the help of my son we hoisted the compressor in place tonight-- dang things weighs a ton-- made the final adjustments, and fired it up. Gotta say, I was flat out impressed for it being free.

Here's my question:

The attached photo is shamelessly lifted from hotrodders.com. It shows one system for cooling air compressor output to control water. I immediately spotted some design flaws:

-- The drip legs on the copper wall unit are, for all practical purposes, non-existent. I would make them much longer.

-- The copper piping looks like 1/2-inch which is undersized.

-- The flex line from the compressor to the wall unit takes a serious downward dip creating a major water trap with no way to drain it. If anything, the flex line should be angled upward to to allow water to drain back into the tank.

Nevertheless, I like the design concept. I live in a humid area and only a month ago saw a beautiful sprayed lacquer cabinet job ruined by water in the air lines. I am just a hobbyist so an expensive chiller is out of the question. But this homebrew approach does intrigue me. I know it would be best to build the system from 1-inch pipe, but I have 3/4-inch cooper line on hand and will be using that to avoid extra cost.

I will have water separators at the regulators, and also will put disposable water filters on the HVLP guns when I paint, but this system looks like it could help get rid of a lot of moisture in front of the regulators.

I'm looking forward to your observations about this system, and what you are using to control water in the lines. Any other observations are also welcome.

One other question:

I know some of you have automatic unloaders to handle tank drainage. That's overkill for me and my current extended drain will stay. I also know that a traditional location for a compressor is in a back corner of the garage. I wonder how you avoie splattering water all over the walls and/or floor when you drain your compressor tanks? (Okay, don't to ask the reason for this question!)
 

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Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Add a brass barb fitting on the ball valve and some hose, such as 3 or 4 ft of air hose pushed up and clamped on the barb fitting. Then you can drain in a bucket (it still spits and splatters when the air comes thru).

aftercoolers have been beat to death here. there is one active discussion right now about this. If you are using the compressor alot, you probably will want to install an electric operated auto drain valve, that vents outside.

Charles
 
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Blown71X

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
124
Location
A tad north of Indy
I have both of my tank drains plumbed with hydraulic hose from the ball valves to a piece of 3/8 steel tubing that goes thru the wall to the outside....No mess no fuss.
If done this way do be sure to attach the line to something so it can not blow back thru the wall.....One of those "don`t ask me how I know" moments.

Rick
 
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KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
Add a brass barb fitting on the ball valve and some hose, such as 3 or 4 ft of air hose pushed up and clamped on the barb fitting. Then you can drain in a bucket (it still spits and splatters when the air comes thru).

This is just the kind of information I was looking for. Sometimes you can't see forest for the trees. Thanks Charles

...aftercoolers have been beat to death here. there is one active discussion right now about this. If you are using the compressor alot said:
An auto drain valve would be ideal, but too costly for this occasional user. (And I would hate to penetrate the wall of my nice new garage!) I also hear that some electric drains are problematic.
 
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