Air Compressor Pipe

[hoyt]

I'm moving into a new space, 25x60, and need to install piping for my air compressor. My old shop had black iron pipe that leaked and was corroded. It was left behind for the next tenant.

A dozen years ago, I had looked at the fancy plastic-coated aluminum pipe and passed on it because of the cost and the fact that that black iron pipe was already there.

That aluminum pipe on Amazon: https://www/amazon.com/Compressed-HDPE-Aluminum-HDPE-2×Right-Fittings-Install/dp/B0CTHVTGGJ/

Anyway, is that stuff still state-of-the-art or is there new plumbing technology available? Anything to be aware of?

 

[Wrench97]

The last drops I ran I used 3/4" D.O.T. nylon tubing, I was buying it for around 75 cents a foot, I used 3/4" conduit clamps(45 cents) and D.O.T. compression fittings as opposed to push connect fittings which always seem to leak after 8 years or so.

 

[CoronadoBruin]

I've gone decidedly low tech and use 600 psi PVC, and drain it when I think of it to keep the constant pressure off of the pipe (I made a little sign to remind me to drain it at the end of the day). I keep the PSI at about 125 but kick it to 175 on occasion. Not as fancy, but it works. The 1/2" and 3/4" CPVC to brass adapters are $12 or so at Zoro. I'm in a slightly oversized two-car garage so I have fairly short runs.

I can't speak to failure due to degradation (age, UV, expansion due to pressure on & off, etc.) after 20 or 30 years but I've yet to hear from anyone who has similar.

Edit: I use other adapters along with the aforementioned ones but the transition is always pointing in a direction that will not damage anything, including me, should a failure there cause it to become ballistic.

 

[PCustoms]

Wow, 2 posts to bring up PVC.

Don't use PVC

 

[CoronadoBruin]

Wow, 2 posts to bring up PVC.

Don't use PVC

Yeah, I knew I was going to get clobbered on a garage site for suggesting 600 psi PVC or better so I did hesitate in writing the post but I've never had problems. Would I in an industrial or commercial setting? No (and OSHA has appropriately disallowed it since 1988), but most people use 180 or 240 psi PVC in their (two-car) garage, hence the issues. The sh!t does work, emphasis on sh!t. HDPE is better. If I had to run metal, I'd use type K copper. I've solved the problem by using longer air hoses.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Properly installed screw pipe doesn’t leak.

 

[jdm5]

Rapidair, copper pipe, black pipe all good options

 

[Stuart in MN]

Yeah, I knew I was going to get clobbered on a garage site for suggesting 600 psi PVC or better so I did hesitate in writing the post but I've never had problems.

At the risk of derailing the discussion, PVC works right up until the moment it doesn't. The PSI rating is for liquids, not for compressed air, and there's a big difference. It's been discussed here numerous times in the past, so you can go back and read more details on why it's not appropriate for compressed air.

 

[PCustoms]

At the risk of derailing the discussion, PVC works right up until the moment it doesn't.

I was uninjured until I was injured (from Pvc shrapnel).

 

[Dig Doug]

My neighbor has been a mechanic for 37 years & ready to retire…

he has all the air tools in a drawer but uses battery M12 & M18 98% of the time. No hose to deal with.

with that being said -

I’d probably put in a basic system & power needed equipment and save some cash for battery tools

Type L copper - blue lettering on pipe
or
black pipe


That blue pipe sure is purdy but pricy

 

[isb cornbinder]

In 1990, I installed black pipe airlines in my new shop. Years later I have bits of rust flaking off and getting into air tools. I would not install black pipe again. For now, I use an air/moisture filter at every drop. My situation is not critical.

 

[The Cobbler]

I like & used copper type L
but apparently, M is sufficient .

 

[cvairwerks]

IF you want to use rigid plastic, then spend the money on ABS, which is rated for compressible fluids....Probably cheaper to run copper though...
Last ABS I bought was around $40 a stick for 1" diameter.

 

[gungatim]

Properly installed screw pipe doesn’t leak.

*properly threaded with non-Chinese fittings doesn't leak.

 

[gungatim]

I like & used copper type L
but apparently, M is sufficient .

Ditto. I have a mix of L and M because I had some of the thinner stuff on hand. Easy to install, easy to modify, inexpensive, and no leaks. Mine is going on 20 years without issues.

 

[BillK]

My business unit is 30 x 60 I ran a 3/4" copper loop about 12" up the wall with 1/2" drops. It has been fine for 24 years now.

 

[mike93lx]

I would do either copper or something like rapidaire. No way I'd mess around with threading black iron

 

[Jon h]

I used Teseo air system in my shop. Super nice to work with. It’s aluminum hollow bar. Square on the outside and round on the inside.

Not overly expensive. The bar was cheap but the fittings were pricey. But well worth it.

Jon h.

 

[mike93lx]

I used Teseo air system in my shop. Super nice to work with. It’s aluminum hollow bar. Square on the outside and round on the inside.

Not overly expensive. The bar was cheap but the fittings were pricey. But well worth it.

Jon h.

80/20 air piping... That's pretty damn cool

@Ryan would love this

 

[Jon h]

Yeah, it’s pretty slick. Really easy to add to it without having to disassemble. Just drill a hole and bolt on the fitting….
I haven’t priced it since I bought mine 10 or so years ago but I’d bet the lengths of pipe are cheaper than copper now.
Jon h.

 

[hans109h]

Agreed. I just wish there was a local source for small quantity extruded Al around here!

 

[cvairwerks]

Teseo looks neat, but not available in the US right now.....

 

[Ryan]

80/20 air piping... That's pretty damn cool

@Ryan would love this

That really is cool as ****.

 

[thammel]

My copper pipe looks great and is very easy to customize and set up. And your soldering skills will improve!!

 

[70chevellegsp]

I plumbed my (24 x 30) shop with 3/4" copper 20 years ago. No issues with leaks or corrosion. Can't remember if L or M. Around 100 lf with 3 drops. In my house garage I ran Amazon Rapidair (knockoff) to my dad's 50 year old Monky Wards 15 gallon compressor. (Painted a lot of cars in the driveway with it when I was young) Just a quick and easy way to air up tires or anything else necessary. I leave that compressor on and aired up and it loses no air at all.

 

[Spareparts]

Bought my house in 82 it was over 100 yrs. then completely replumbed it with K copper, had a friend that was a plumber
at the local army base. He got me all the copper/with bags of fittings to do it. Built the shop in 84 and plumbed it with the left
over copper and fittings. If I want a new drop just get the tubing cutter out, put a "T" in and run the drop. The old shop was run with black pipe, no leaks but rust found it's way in,never again. Bite the bullet and run Copper, you will never reget it.

 

[Jwallace1]

anyone done copper with press fittings? i have been looking at that, i would get it all installed and just rent the press tool. the interior is all finished and painted so would just prefer not to mess around with soldering all the joints

 

[mike93lx]

anyone done copper with press fittings? i have been looking at that, i would get it all installed and just rent the press tool. the interior is all finished and painted so would just prefer not to mess around with soldering all the joints

Press is amazeballs. The only downside is cost

 

[MrFreeze]

My system is 90% ProPress copper. 3/4" mains and 1/2" drops. A contractor buddy lent me his battery-powered ProPress tool. After I had it all fitted, it probably took a total of 10 minutes to crimp every joint. No leaks yet after 5 years.











If I was doing this again, I'd probably do the same. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with.

MrFreeze

 

[BombShelter]

I used to sell a ton of Duraplus, if it ruptures, it's like bubble gum and doesn't have shrapnel. It won't corrode or rust like metal products and it goes together similar to PVC pipe with a saw and solvent cement. It can also be dry fitted before cementing.

Industrial Compressed Air Piping - Compressed Air Distribution System | IPEX USA LLC

Duraplus™ ABS Air-Line is designed and engineered for industrial compressed air applications

ipexna.com

Please do not use PVC pipe, it is not supposed to be used for this application. Just like the guys that throw gas on open fires, this is highly dangerous and it seems like it waits to blow up just when the young kid is walking by and boom, the force and shrapnel are similar to a grenade and will rip your face off.

 

[ericm]

That blue pipe sure is purdy but pricy

1/2" maxline is cheaper per ft than 1/2" copper. The maxline fittings cost more than copper solder type fittings though.

 

[Jagmandave]

What about Pex?

 

[600SL]

Press is amazeballs. The only downside is cost

Once you use it you will want to buy the tool. It really is amazing.

 

[fourjeepin]

What about Pex?

I have pex in my shop. I hesitated installing it for a while due to a lack of info from othersthat had done it. But I did find a few that had without issue. Mine has been in place probably 2 years. It’s trouble free and was very easy and inexpensive to install. Especially since I already had the crimp tool.

The pex was even easier and cheaper than the pvc it replaced. Yes, I had pvc. No, I didn’t know any better before I Installed it as i joined here soon after. The pvc was more work due to glueing the fittings. And yes, it did fail after probably 6 or 7 years.

the only concern I have heard regarding pex is UV exposure. All but about 6 feet of mine is covered. If that part fails, I will splice in a replacement, no problem.

 

[Jwallace1]

Press is amazeballs. The only downside is cost

other than the tool which i can rent, the fittings don't seem to be crazy, couple bucks more per fitting than sweat joints so i think for the ease of install its definitely worth it.

 

[mike93lx]

other than the tool which i can rent, the fittings don't seem to be crazy, couple bucks more per fitting than sweat joints so i think for the ease of install its definitely worth it.

I agree.

Just buy the tool and replumb your house, too. You can sell it after and recoup most of the cost