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air compressor piping

edl

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Jan 29, 2006
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Southeast, US
Hi All - will start to plumb my compressor (7.5hp(max)/80 gallon; 5hp steady - 26cfm at 90psi; 175psi max - 3/4" outlet from compressor) - and was set to use copper tubing (schedule L 1" with .5" drops) - i would think no issues there - was talking to the person that will be helping and he mentioned black pipe - based on following the threads here, i immediately said "NO" - they can rust and flake inside - as i have read here many times - but he metioned that while this is true for "regular" galvanized black pipe, this was not true for something he called "black orange" pipe - he indicates this is used in natural gas applications in the house and is not prone to inside rusting and flaking - i have never heard of this - does it exist? - is there a more common name? - is it impervious to rust and flaking the way copper is? - is there a certain grade I would get? - should i still use 1" ID tubing? - obviously, the reason for all the questions is that he indicates that the price for this "black orange" pipe is much cheaper than coper and that threading and screwing is much less labor than brazing all of the copper - THOUGHTS? THANKS!!
 
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Itzkwik

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Montpelier, VA
edl said:
and that threading and screwing is much less labor than brazing all of the copper - THOUGHTS? THANKS!!
If you are able to use all standard lengths and buy it already threaded, it may be easy. Not usually the case. Hope your friend has a power threader. If you have to thread the pipe manually, you're gonna hate him after about 4-5 pieces of pipe. Having done a fair amount of both, I think the copper is the much easier way to go.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Problems are as mentioned, the threading, you would just about need a plumber to set up a power threader and a cutter in the middle of your shop and custom cut and fit as you install.

Rust can form at the cut and threaded areas, minor, but still a problem.

What about fittings? are they special? Any type of iron pipe probably will be able to withstand 100 psi, but if it is designed for gas, it may not be pressure rated to very high of a pressure.

Charles
 

byrdman

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Jan 15, 2005
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NC
What's the "black orange" pipe made of? If you thread it together, it sounds like it could be iron. Iron rusts. Plus, I'm wondering if natural gas applications don't have less moisture inside than what you're gonna generate with a shop compressed air system? My point being, maybe these (iron?) pipes don't rust and flake in the natural gas application, because they are dry?

If you don't have a power pipe threader, on site, sweating copper wins the labor comparison hands down. If you do have one, I guess arguments could be made in either direction. Sweating copper is really not that hard.

As far as what size comparisons between this black orange pipe and copper- just keep the inner diameter the same and your flow / capacity should remain unchanged either way.
 

HoosierBuddy

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May 9, 2006
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Southern Indiana
edl said:
"black orange" pipe THANKS!!

I've worked in the natural gas industry for 14 years now. I've never heard of black/orange pipe. So I did a Google Search and was able to find it:

pipe6.jpg


Right off I'd say it looks expensive and I'm not sure how you plan to connect it.

Phil
 
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edl

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Southeast, US
lol - thanks for the input - will go with copper - schedule L - 1" main to .5" drops - I'll post pictures when done - thanks again, stephen
 
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69lkmno

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San Diego - Oceanside
Yeah, I went the Garage Pak route when I did my airline in the garage and it's very easy to install. At that time I didn't know how to solder copper so I paid the price. I would go copper next time if I had to do it all over again.
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
edl said:
lol - thanks for the input - will go with copper - schedule L - 1" main to .5" drops - I'll post pictures when done - thanks again, stephen

I think type M pipe is cheaper and lighter, and even though the Copper Tube Handbook does not list compressed air as one of the many uses of it, looking at the working pressures for 3/4 type L vs type M I find that at 150 degrees F, the type L has a WORKING pressure of 495 psi while the type M has a working pressure of 346 psi (both pipes in an annealed condition, the weakest listed)

If you go to the Drawn condition in the charts the numbers are type L 1002 psi and type M is 701 psi. (both for 3/4 at 150 degrees)

With the price of copper where it is, I would be hard pressed to justify type L for the 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes. If you are using one inch, then you would want to use type L as M has a 150f working pressure of 286 psi .

Charles
 
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edl

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Jan 29, 2006
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809
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Southeast, US
Hi All - well took the plunge and plumbed the compressor over the holidays - used copper and fittings as follows:

Compressor is a HFT 80G/7.5H/220v/Single phase/.75" female outlet
- started with a 3/4 ball valve (HFT - $3 on sale (nickel over brass - 200psi)
- then to a 12" braided steel line ($39 made for me at local hose shop)
- into a 3/4 to 1" adapter (threaded/threaded)
- 1" copper female
- 1" schedule L up to the ceiling and around to 3 drops
- each drop is 1/2"
- filter/regulator (HFT)
- drain leg on each drop

Happy to post photos if any interest.

Bought the copper at HD - it is just plain expensive - no way around it - the above, with 10' sticks (the "in the know" term for a length of tube) and fittings, about $500 of copper; Mapp gas torch and 2 cylinders - $40 (didn't even use up 1 cylinder); flux $6; solder $10; time - a week!!! Please let me know if you have any questions - thanks for all of the input, and most especially to Byrdman - "copper airline installation (dialup beware) ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page View All)
byrdman"

whose ideas I cribbed 100% - thank you for sharing byrdman - please let me know how I can help anyone else out there - thanks, stephen
 
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