Air Compressor Plumbing Help

[SCG4224]

Hey everyone,

First off, I'm sure this has all been answered in other threads, but without spending hours searching when I could be drywalling my new shop, I have some questions for those who have successfully operated a large compressor in their shop.

I picked up a new Bendpak 7580V-601 compressor via the deal offered on this website. It's the 7.5 HP, 80 gal rated at max 175 psi with over 26CFM @ max pressure.

That being said, I'm trying to make sure I don't screw up when I plumb this thing. I'm starting from scratch and would like some feedback on plumbing, filter/ regulator suggestions, etc.

It looks like the best bet to start from the 3/4" outlet is to run a flexible line to the mounted regulator/ filter set-up. I have a 1/2" line that's 6' long now. I'm also looking at running the Rapid Air 3/4" system for piping throughout the shop.

Questions:

1) Is the 1/2" flex line going to create a significant restriction in the system?

2) I've looked at the Milton 1108 for a filter/ regulator set-up (also 1/2") does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of this unit and again, will the 1/2" create a significant restriction in the system.

3) If not the Milton unit listed above, any other suggestions? I'm looking at using the air for a lift and some air tools. Somewhere down the road, I may be doing some painting, but will install a dryer system at the outlet for the painting equipment. I've also looked at this Pneumatic Plus 3/4" unit

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PR2U984/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV&psc=1

4) Considering running a recoil hose out of my engine building room ceiling for simplicity. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on parts I'll need that are high quality?

I'm hoping this will create more questions, but it's a start. Thanks for any help folks can provide. I'm not big on reinventing the mouse trap and I've realized there are some very knowledgeable people on this website so, with that being said, my mind is a sponge!

 

[ineedtools]

Keep the 3/4" and use hard line like aluminum or copper for the main run, don't cripple it right out the tank!

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

 

[Git]

Chances are the fitting in the tank is 3/4". That seems like a really decent compressor with those specs. I think I would try to keep everything 3/4" as long as you can. Here is a decent 3/4" x 3' flex line for $38 to get you started. I just bought one and so far have been pretty pleased with it. Also, it is hard to find something like this in 3/4"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GPQKJ5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Git]

Here is a pretty heavy duty filter you may be interested in. Amazon Warehouse deal. I was watching it but ended up going with another Parker unit they had. This is a little big at 1" but a couple of bushings would solve that problem. It is normally priced around $370 it is currently in the warehouse for $102

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B004O0U6AQ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

 

[SCG4224]

Sorry for not responding sooner. Been busy drywalling the room so I can install my cabinets.

@Ineedtools
Thanks for the info. I was thinking the same thing. I had actually bought the same whip hose in 1/2" before I started thinking about the restriction I was creating.

@Git
I checked your link for the filter that afternoon, but the deal was over. I guess I need to be a little quicker.

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate all of it. Anyone have any suggestions on best way to install a swivel connection and recoil hose from my ceiling? Or should I just stay plumbed along the exterior walls and run hoses from connection points along the supply line?

 

[Bob P1]

You definitely would benefit from staying with largest diameter piping possible, on your "drops" have a "T" near the bottom, going left or right about a foot above a valve to let water out. On the 'T" run your regulator. Water will be easier to drain & less goes thru regulator/separator.

 

[sberry]

How big of impact are you using? A short chunk of 1/2 won't hurt a thing on common tools. If you are using 1/2 gun you will never see a difference with the line size. It doesn't matter how big the unit is, only the maimum demand at one time. As long as itbis adequate is all that matters. If you are a class 8 truck shop with multiple men then 3/4 pipe is necessary. 1/2 will even run a 3/4 gun especially since it's on the hi side,, or ahead of the regulator.
I have about 18 inches of 1/2 pipe on mine before it goes on some 3/4, eventually back to 1/2 going to regulator. Once in a while it bugs me a little as I had free 3/4,,, know it doesn't make any difference at my rate and it all works super, really flys.

 

[sberry]

The filter needs to be sized to demand. Too big and they don't take the water out.
Think of it a bit like this. You can have 400A electric service or 100A and a if you use a welder requires 25A how much better is it going to work with a number 6 wire vs a 10? And the 10 even works with 50A with slight loss, so small that the user can't tell the difference.

 

[SCG4224]

I think the biggest user of air that I plan on down the road is a bead blast cabinet. I suppose I could always replace the short flex connection and regulator/ filter if demand isn't met. All the other stuff I'll be using is in a one man shop so the compressor was probably overkill. Always better to go big when it comes to the high dollar equipment. The rest can get replaced if it doesn't fill the needs.

Once I figure out how to keep the website from turning my photos 90 degrees, I'll start posting some photos of the shop and start my review of the new compressor.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[redmondjp]

Lots of threads out there on this topic - have you considered the Rapidair M7500 3/4" kit? It's about $160 on Amazon and had three drops. Their 3/4" kits are rated to 175psi maximum, whereas the 1/2" kits only go to 150psi (but you can get the 90500 1/2" kit with three drops for only $75). My friend just used the 1/2" kit on his compressor that shuts off at 155psi, and so far, so good.

I think I'm going to just buy that 3/4" kit for my "permanent" install as I can install it in a day and be done with it. I've been in my house for 20 years now and my existing compressor has a 3/8" rubber air hose going from the back corner all the way to the front of the garage, where it connects to a 75' retractable hose reel near the door.

 

[SCG4224]

Lots of threads out there on this topic - have you considered the Rapidair M7500 3/4" kit? It's about $160 on Amazon and had three drops. Their 3/4" kits are rated to 175psi maximum, whereas the 1/2" kits only go to 150psi (but you can get the 90500 1/2" kit with three drops for only $75). My friend just used the 1/2" kit on his compressor that shuts off at 155psi, and so far, so good.

I think I'm going to just buy that 3/4" kit for my "permanent" install as I can install it in a day and be done with it. I've been in my house for 20 years now and my existing compressor has a 3/8" rubber air hose going from the back corner all the way to the front of the garage, where it connects to a 75' retractable hose reel near the door.

I put a lot of info in the start of the thread, but that's where I'm headed is the RapidAir 3/4" kit from Amazon. I just priced out copper and received sticker shock. My biggest concern is the cost of the fittings when purchased individually, but probably well worth it.

 

[sberry]

You can use the tubing with 1 proprietary fitting at each end, use common pipe fittings from there. As for line sizing and blasting, as long as the hose or pipe is a bit larger than the air orfice in the blast gun it will meet demand. 1/4 nozzle is well served by a 1/2 hose which is several times larger.
Nothing wrong with having a bigger comp, will run less, not so much demand timing required from the operator and due to pass run will last a long time. Biggest drawback is heavy motor starts.
Big hose or pipe won't hurt either but it's nothing to worry about. I have done a lot of blasting with a 3/8 hose but once I had it all set up have 25 ft of 1/2 to my pot.

 

[Lonnies Performance]

I'm in the process of plumbing my garage with the same compressor.

I used 3/4" copper. Its $1.5/ft. I didn't think it was that bad.

As for regulator/filter, I got the 3/4" Rapidair from Northern tool for about $69.

I cheated & used Sharkbite fittings as I didn't want to be soldering 18' in the air.
They are rated for 200psi so I'm not worried about the pressure

 

[Lelandwelds]

Milton makes some nice filters at a reasonable price. Do not get your coalescing or venturi sizes too far from your actual compressor size. They won't work as well. If you add a dry tank after your filters, etc., your line size matters even less.

A 7.5 hp compressor can certainly make use of a little extra storage if you fix your leaks.

 

[SCG4224]

A lot of great information. Thank you all for the help! I'm leaning toward the RapidAir 3/4" system to get out 100' and use their fittings for my main drops. From there, I should be able to add as needed with regular fittings and possibly copper piping as sberry and Lonnies Performance talked about. I am going to try to maintain 3/4" line from the compressor and into a 3/4" filter/ regulator combo. Leaning toward a Milton 1102 set-up or the Pneumatic Plus.

Sometimes I overthink this stuff! It's my quest to do it right the first time that creates the concerns. Nothing will be buried in walls so it shouldn't be much of an issue to correct anything if this doesn't work, but I can't see how I can go wrong by staying with 3/4" throughout.

Thanks again!

 

[sberry]

I think that rapid stuff is hose size which is quite a bit smaller than pipe.

 

[SCG4224]

I think that rapid stuff is hose size which is quite a bit smaller than pipe.

Actually, their website has the specs at .98" outside diameter and .80" inside diameter so should work fine. It looks like I can buy fittings that'll allow me to create my drops out of copper as needed. Valves seem to be a bit cheaper that way.

 

[sberry]

Yes, its fine, didn't mean to imply it wasn't. What I meant is a 1/2 is pretty close to 1/2 but a steel pipe is closer to .625 although it is often a little rough on the inside, not sure how much that hurts???? If I was using that hose stuff I would go to 3/4 too most likely. Especially long runs and no fittings, the cost difference is moot if you havnt bought it yet.
With 2 stage, a regulator before a 3/8 hose it wouldn't make much difference though. A 1/2 will be 2x as good as the secondary hose in that situation.
Yes, I would tend to use it 1 piece and adapt it to common fittings at the end. So much cheaper and easier to transition with common stuff. Put valve right after the adapter.
This is a very simple setup for a feed to a reel. Valve on supply pipe for shut off and service to the rest of the equipment. I have several taps on the mains, in a smaller shop the valve at the comp could service the whole system. I have reels and old hoses etc at the end of some, I generally turn them off when not needed, a local valve makes some sense in my case.
I have some on 24/7 too.