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Air Compressor problem

bryank930

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
57
Location
SE Wisconsin
My little craftsman 3-gallon compressor seems to have a problem starting sometimes and it's getting worse. I really don't know how to explain it, but I have a video. I don't think it's the check valve because the motor doesn't stall.

Note:
Near the end of the video, I drain it pretty close to 0 and it starts and runs just fine. It does not always do this. Sometimes the issue happens with 0 psi in the tank.


Any ideas (other than buy a new compressor)?
 
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Ponchoguy

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Jul 27, 2014
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Is it a "919" model (DeVilbiss), a "106" model (Campbell Hausfeld) or a "921" model (Midwest Air Technologies?
 

Major Ramifications

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Feb 28, 2005
Messages
4,673
Location
River Ridge, Louisiana
Man, you don't want to know how many of those things I have worked on.
If the check valve was leaking and the unloader was working, all the air would leak out when it was shut off. Is the unloader working? It sounds like it is, but Youtube was really jumpy for me. When you shut the lever off after building up some pressure, it should trip the unloader valve under there and release the head pressure. It sounds like it is, but check to make sure.
Otherwise, maybe you have a weak starting capacitor. It was rare, but I did see it happen.
The #1 problem I saw with those units was galling between the crank and rod. This is easy to check. Unplug it, stand it on end, remove the crankcase cover, and take a look. Yes, things may be a little messy because of the oil.
If you see this, my advise is to let the damn thing go and step up to something of better quality.
 
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gungatim

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Jan 8, 2013
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8,101
Location
west mich
So I pulled the capacitors and checked them with my DMM. They seem to be fine. Could this be anything else?

what kind of DMM? does it specifically have a capacitor test mode or did you just hit the ohms resistance? if the latter, you can't really tell if it is failing that way...
 
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bryank930

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Aug 20, 2012
Messages
57
Location
SE Wisconsin
what kind of DMM? does it specifically have a capacitor test mode or did you just hit the ohms resistance? if the latter, you can't really tell if it is failing that way...


Yeah, I did the ohms reading. I also charged em up with a 9V and read the voltage. It did slowly decline.

Is a capacitor tester the only way to check if it's failing?
 
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bryank930

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Aug 20, 2012
Messages
57
Location
SE Wisconsin
Not yet. I'll try that tonight though.
Just took the cover off. Everything in there looks good. It needs new oil, but otherwise good.
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e3011dc61d4e5dad900471a13fb5fef9.jpg
 
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bryank930

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Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
57
Location
SE Wisconsin
New start capacitor is in, but the problem did not go away. Should I go ahead and replace the run capacitor too?
 

james68ssrs

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Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Australia
contacts in the pressure switch may be burnt,causing a hard start. unplug when loading and check the resistance across the contacts. they should at least be close to the same. note that when you restart, there will still be head pressure due to the fact that it did not vent when stopped. just a thought as i find this on a regular basis when in the field, even though I deal with 3 phase industrial mostly.
 
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bryank930

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Aug 20, 2012
Messages
57
Location
SE Wisconsin
contacts in the pressure switch may be burnt,causing a hard start. unplug when loading and check the resistance across the contacts. they should at least be close to the same. note that when you restart, there will still be head pressure due to the fact that it did not vent when stopped. just a thought as i find this on a regular basis when in the field, even though I deal with 3 phase industrial mostly.
I will definitely try that. Thank you.

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james68ssrs

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Australia
Also check the discharge check valve. When the compressor stops, you get the quick vent of head pressure from under the pressure switch. This should only last for a few seconds, or thereabouts. It should eventually stop venting anyway. If the discharge check is even slightly leaking back tank pressure ( the dis. check isolates the head side from the usable side) you will get what you are experiencing. It might only be leaking occasionally, hence the good start then bad start scenario that you are having. What I do (I have had this happen on my home units) is vent the tank (important for obvious reasons) remove the check, stretch the spring slightly and dress the usually black teflon face with 600 wet and dry on a flat surface (mdf, glass, granite etc.) reassemble and run and unload a few times. It may take 3 or 4 goes before it seals. In my experience, if a cap goes, it is gone for good, same as a motor, unless you are having incoming power supply issues, hence my previous post regarding the "maybe" dodgy contacts in the pressure switch. It pays to check all of these things though as a matter of course, as sometimes you can over troubleshoot. In the video your compressor sounds healthy when on song, so this is probably something very simple. Don't worry about the cheap and throw it out views, I have some good stuff at home ( I am a compressor tech. by trade, or job description) and work for one of your mob, Sullair Australia, and I have a cheap direct drive such as yours and I have tried to kill it over the years and it will not die. 12 years old and have never changed the oil! Now , I did not say that out loud ok. cheers.
 
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