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Air Compressor repair

GeoBruin

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I think you're going to struggle to find someone who has direct experience with both and a strong preference one way or another. If you're just looking for feedback on the amount of output, that's really up to you. You have enough motor to push either of those pumps near full output but you may decide to slow them down a little bit to decrease the Heat and noise. As I mentioned earlier, I believe the original pump is an Italian made pump that is used on some Atlas Copco/ BelAire compressors. I have a five horsepower rated model that looks very very close. I have no complaints other than it's loud, but that is in part due to how fast it has to spin to make its Max rated output. In my case it's a smaller displacement pump and only a five horsepower motor so I need everything I can get out of it. You may not.
 

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Citation

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How much air do you really need? My brother got the older single stage "5hp" HF pump for around $200. His motor was something like 4hp (18A or so) thus he drove the pump slow to avoid working the motor too hard. He hasn't had issues with it. Another brother has the old "3hp" pump on his 80 gallon compressor. No issues with the pump and he's been using it for paining. With your motor you will have no issues running the HF pump at full speed. You will likely need to check your pulley sizes to make sure the motor doesn't over speed a 5hp pump. Basically, if you *only* need a 5hp compressor, which is a hell of a strong general use, home shop compressor, then I would probably risk the HF unit since it's way cheaper. If it's not sufficient, well you are out $250. If it's good then you only spent $250
 

GeoBruin

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No way I'd touch that first pump for over a grand.

I don't know how they do free shipping at that price but I'd much rather go with one of these for the money, depending on how handy you are modifying stuff.


1748722959945.png

That's a different class of pump. If they only want 17 cfm, sure, but the factory pump is basically a t39.

 

no704

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Pull the compressor head and have a look before getting carried away. Pretty simple mechanism. I’ve seen reed valves missing a screw and cockeyed. Or just dirty. Might be able to just clean them or possibly fill them over.
 
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markhodges78

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Pull the compressor head and have a look before getting carried away. Pretty simple mechanism. I’ve seen reed valves missing a screw and cockeyed. Or just dirty. Might be able to just clean them or possibly fill them over.
Using a big screwdriver to check.. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the lower area
 
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markhodges78

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No way I'd touch that first pump for over a grand.

I don't know how they do free shipping at that price but I'd much rather go with one of these for the money, depending on how handy you are modifying stuff.


1748722959945.png
Yeah but i can't get a new compressor for 1200 with 26 cfm and this one you posted is 15 cfm wouldn't I be better served to get the one from harbor freight and save some cash if I was going to go down in cfm?
 
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markhodges78

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Well they said it is but they also said the red one kept tripping the 30 amp breaker. Well of course it did the breaker wasn't big enough... so there's no way they didn't know it was knock. I take what they say with a grain of salt .. but they do have a video of it running but it's in a different location then the compressor was when I seen it and it's no longer hooked up
 

MacMcMacmac

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It might be cheaper to fix what you have, but you won't know until it's apart and I don't know how long you are willing to wait for your compressor. The worst part with these ABAC pumps is figuring out which model you have. I just priced a new valve plate assembly for a B7000 and it was nearly $800, so fixing yours might not be a very cheap proposition.
 
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Citation

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OP, based on your earlier comments it doesn't seem like you really need as much air as this compressor can provide. If a "5hp" compressor is sufficient I would look at getting the HF pump and calling it a day. Yeah, it's a downgrade from the factory setup. It also is the cheapest option to get the thing running (assuming a tear-down of the current pump doesn't offer a cheap fix).
 

GeoBruin

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MacMacmac has swayed me toward the Saylor Beall 205/Sanborn SC23 style pump.
 
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markhodges78

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It might be cheaper to fix what you have, but you won't know until it's apart and I don't know how long you are willing to wait for your compressor. The worst part with these ABAC pumps is figuring out which model you have. I just priced a new valve plate assembly for a B7000 and it was nearly $800, so fixing yours might not be a very cheap proposition.
I believe it's a b6000 but I have been unable to source a crank and bearings
 
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markhodges78

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Without taking it apart you don’t know what it needs. Didn’t someone mention the small end of the rod being a common cause for a knock? Might get away with a wrist pin and a bearing?
I have not been able to source crank and bearings
 

Old Man Roger

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I have not been able to source crank and bearings
The small end of the rod would be at the top, it may not be main bearings, or big end rod bearings. The wrist pin connects the rod to the piston. Wrist pin bearing could possibly just be a needle bearing that you could probably get from an industrial bearing company.

Im no compressor mechanic, so consider the source .lol
 

Junkman

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This thread reminds me of a Quincy air compressor that I picked up in 2014 at a bankruptcy sale. It was a 3-phase 60-gallon tank with a dual-stage compressor head on it. I called Quincy and provided them with the serial number of the unit, and they informed me that it had left the factory without a motor installed. It had a 3 HP 3-phase motor when I received it, and the starter box was broken off because someone had knocked it off while moving it. According to Quincy, it should have a 5 HP motor, so I purchased a 5 HP 220-volt single-phase motor. Additionally, I paid an extra $30 for the correct motor pulley. I still haven't purchased a starter for the motor, and I've owned this compressor for about 9 years now. I sold the 3 HP 3-phase motor for $100 at a swap meet, so I have a whole lot of my time looking for inexpensive parts and moving around the garage. Sometimes, a bargain isn't a bargain if you've invested a lot of time in it.
The first picture is the Quincy that I bought in 1995, and I was hoping to sell it because it is larger than I need.



MVC-001L.JPGMVC-002L.JPGMVC-004L.JPGMVC-005L.JPGMVC-006L.JPGMVC-007L.JPG years now. I sold the 3 HP 3-phase motor for $100 at a swap meet, so I have a total of $380 invested so far, but a whole lot of my time. Sometimes, a bargain isn't a bargain if you've invested a lot of time in it.
 
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markhodges78

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The small end of the rod would be at the top, it may not be main bearings, or big end rod bearings. The wrist pin connects the rod to the piston. Wrist pin bearing could possibly just be a needle bearing that you could probably get from an industrial bearing company.

Im no compressor mechanic, so consider the source .lol
Below is the Diagram of my pump and it does not look like it has wrist pin bearings.

1748863928174.png
 

Old Man Roger

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Strange. So either the rods 36-37 are wear items, or they come with a pressed in bushing. The wrist pins 38-45 are usually pretty hard material, but if the bushing is bad enough it may be damaged too.

Thats assuming thats the knock, but you wont know till you take it apart.

Looks like you might have roller bearings where the crank sits in the case.
 
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markhodges78

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Thats assuming thats the knock, but you wont know till you take it apart.
Yeah I'm defiantly digging into it. Crazy the one at Northern Tools that's for sell has the exact same part numbers for everything but the parts aren't available for sell.
 

MacMcMacmac

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Pins running directly on the aluminum rods are not rare. It works fine. Just think of a motorcycle camshaft spinning at 7000rpm directly in the aluminum head. They last thousands of miles.
 

American Locomotive

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Pins running directly on the aluminum rods are not rare. It works fine. Just think of a motorcycle camshaft spinning at 7000rpm directly in the aluminum head. They last thousands of miles.
Pretty common for just about anything with aluminum rods. Millions of lawnmowers and riding mowers with wrist pins running directly in an aluminum rod.
 
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