Air compressor selection

[NoMoreGreen]

Hey yall,

I have a major project starting next week and I will need an air compressor for it in the first part of November. I have researched all I can research and keep second guessing myself. Quincy seems to have QC issues as of late along with ridiculous warranty demands. I read somewhere they want fluid samples from the tank. Ingersoll Rand doesn't appear to be as quality of a unit. Eaton compressor builds some nice units called Polar Air but other then the CEOS apparent mouth running, there's not much info available. Polar Air's Silent air features look pleasant as this will be installed in a residential garage.

The largest tool I am planning on running requires 10 CFM of continuous air. Other tools I will be running are simple impacts, sanders, nail guns, and oddly, air drills might be in my future. All of those seem to be well under 10 CFM.

Below are some of the air compressors I am considering. Any guidance would be helpful.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350475_200350475

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...-hp-reciprocating-air-compressor?cm_vc=-10005

https://eatoncompressor.com/product/5-hp-quiet-air-compressor-2-stage-80-gallon-vertical-industrial/

https://eatoncompressor.com/product...-60-gallon-vertical/#technical-specifications

I just found Aircompressordirect.com and saw the below belaire. Aircompressorsdirect has a less than desirable BBB score though.

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/BelAire-318VN-Air-Compressor/p4841.html

But again I just don't know much about Belaire other then seeing it mentioned here.

Thank yall for your help.

NMG

 

[BajaScout]

I bought my Quincy from Aircompressordirect.com

No issues.

 

[sberry]

All of those tools use more than 10 cfm. 1/2 impact uses 25/30 cfm intmittently and a real sander close to 20 continious.

 

[sberry]

You are on the right track, 5 hp, 2 stage, 80 tank, 175 pressure is the standard and suffecient for body work and plenty for mechanic tools for multiple men. Takes 5 hp for body sander.

 

[NoMoreGreen]

I bought my Quincy from Aircompressordirect.com

No issues.

Thank you! How long ago if you don't mind me asking? Did you buy the extended warranty kit?

NMG

 

[NoMoreGreen]

All of those tools use more than 10 cfm. 1/2 impact uses 25/30 cfm intmittently and a real sander close to 20 continious.

I had questioned the CFM ratings provided on various charts. I just went and looked at an Ingersoll Rand 1/2 drive impact. Sure enough, 24 CFM at load. I need a compressor for a Tile scraping saw in November and that specific tool called for 10 CFM continuous. (I don't really need one, I am sure there is an electric similar. I am using this excuse for the need of an air compressor to the lady though.)

2K is about my max budget. That surely makes a 30CFM compressor out of my budget. I think my neighbors might not enjoy such a large compressor either.

Thank you!

NMG

 

[BajaScout]

Thank you! How long ago if you don't mind me asking? Did you buy the extended warranty kit?



NMG

It has been a couple years now.

I did not get an extended warranty.

Compressor has been great.

I have heard some rumblings about Quincy lately.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[sberry]

You don't need 30,, the 5 hp at 18 or so is fine with that size tank in 2 stage.

 

[sberry]

You don't need 30,, the 5 hp at 18 or so is fine with that size tank in 2 stage.

I am all for being tool thrifty in today's world but a good comp can be a lifetime tool and you don't need to keep tossing money and time with bandaid fixes to try to get it to work.
We had an engineer here "research" comps, finally came up with one he figured would do, worked on paper and then proceeded to add 4k to the rest of the system to try to get a 400$ comp to work. For another grand could have plug and play with room to spare.

 

[Marctrees]

All the current lower price IR and Quincy are totally different than years ago.

They are trying to ride the coattails of their reputation.

Bang for the buck look into the following -

Marc

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361437&highlight=93274

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60-gallon-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html

 

[NoMoreGreen]

So as I am shopping, what is more valuable to a home user. Pressure lubricated or air cooler? Both compressors work out to be the same cost so the options counter balance.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Marctrees]

No more - Not sure if you are aware... One does not need a 24 cfm comp to run a 24 cfm tool.

Sure, if it is running nonstop, which does not apply to anykinda normal shop use.

Even a 5 or10 cfm comp runs a 24 cm tool just fine.

Mostly, cause while the tool is off, the tank is building pressure.

And when the tool is on you are using the built up reserve in the tank.

So, the bigger the tank the better, for 90% of us 60 gal is fine.

Savvy ?

Pressure lube ?

I would bet 80 -90 + % of the guys here do not have pressure lube... only the ********* serious ones w $ to spend for it or lucky enough to find a good old used one.

Marc

 

[dnschmidt]

NEVER believe the SCFM usage rates posted by ANY tool company. They all lie. I'm going to spell it out for you 5HP two stage at 17 SCFM is the minimum. 7.5 HP two stage with 25 SCFM is the bomb. Anybody that tells you otherwise is WRONG. My SATA spray guns easily take 17 CFM and when I'm painting a complete car my 17 SCFM Quincy can keep up but just barely. My ASTRO mini belt sanders take 20 SCFM and Astro claims they take 4 SCFM. This is the hard truth.

 

[driftpin]

If you add your location in your area under the avatar, you might find someone local to you who can direct you to a good local source.

Today I'm going to my friend's new/used sales/repair air compressor shop, from whom I bought this year a refurbished Saylor-Beall 80 gallon, 240 volt 1 phase, splash-lube two-stage disc valve (not reed valve) compressor w/a new Baldor 24 amp motor and a new magnetic switch. It was a bit-more than 1/4 the price of a similarly-spec'ed new one MSRP.

My primary use is bead-blasting of crusty old rusty, oxidized motorcycle parts, though I do have some other uses. Every time I use it, I'm happy that I spent the $. I previously had a cast-iron 240 v. 15 amp portable compressor, which if you were patient, would do the job; now I can work continuously.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

So as I am shopping, what is more valuable to a home user. Pressure lubricated or air cooler? Both compressors work out to be the same cost so the options counter balance.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

A "Home User" doesn't NEED a pressure lubed pump as they don't 'work' the pump as in an industrial setting.

An 'After Cooler' is a great option that everyone can use...well, maybe not needed if you live in the desert.

Look at Champion (R-15 A ) or Saylor-Beall, they are both VERY dependable units and both made in the USA!!

 

[NoMoreGreen]

https://www.compressorworld.com/5-h...-air-compressor-single-phase-vt-735-80-1.html
https://www.compressorworld.com/5-h...lon-tank-230-volt-1-phase-vt-pl-735-80-1.html

Since it was mentioned, the above are the two compressors I am looking at currently. They work out similar in cost after the magnetic starter is added or the pressure lube.

I live in Dallas Fort Worth texas. I will get that added to my profile.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

You ABSOLUTELY must include the magnetic starter as the pressure switch can't take the amps that a 5 HP motor draws...for very long.

I strongly suggest the after cooler option. SB is the only manufacturer that I know of that mounts the fan in the motor shaft which puts a lot more air through the heat exchanger.

If cost isn't an issue...go with the pressure lubed, but again, not necessary in a homeowner setting.

Well...you say "NO MORE GREEN"...but...https://www.compressorworld.com/adv...tage-w-acac-80-gallon-230v-1-phase-vr5-8.html

Personally, I believe they both are great units. The Champion wins for ease of valve maintenance, but the SB has the win for aftercooler design. Flip a coin!

 

[Marctrees]

"You ABSOLUTELY must include the magnetic starter as the pressure switch can't take the amps that a 5 HP motor draws...for very long."

?????????????

The majority of 5 hp single phase comps out there have no mag starter, but controlled w the pressure switch, a disconnect, and internal thermal overload.

IIRC - That includes some of the "better" ones like the venerable IR T30 basic unit.

They lasted just fine... at least the ones w the Square D switch.

I don't know about this Condor switch longevity.

Marc

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

"You ABSOLUTELY must include the magnetic starter as the pressure switch can't take the amps that a 5 HP motor draws...for very long."

?????????????

The majority of 5 hp single phase comps out there have no mag starter, but controlled w the pressure switch, a disconnect, and internal thermal overload.

IIRC - That includes some of the "better" ones like the venerable IR T30 basic unit.

They lasted just fine... at least the ones w the Square D switch.

I don't know about this Condor switch longevity.

Marc

This is a spec cut for your typical Square D 9013 pressure switch. Scroll down to and click on the 9013 switch, then scroll down to "Motor Power KW" and you'll read 2HP for 1 phase 230.

http://www.tesensors.com/us/en/prod...ressure-switches/?parent-subcategory-id=80789

Ask any competent electric motor shop / guru and they will tell you not a run any compressor motor over 2 hp without a mag starter. The disconnect and thermal overload have nothing to do with what the pressure switch can handle.

 

[Marctrees]

Tyrant - I appreciate the backup info.

My experience - years ago I had a IR T30 w a 5 hp single phase Baldor.

All I had was a toggle on off sw and the Sq d switch.

Been 10 yrs now, but I sure do not recall a mag starter on it.

I may be wrong, but that's how I remember it.


Currently have a 5 hp 23 amp Century motor on a 60 gal tank.

All that controls it is Condor pressure sw and internal thermal overload.

Seems to me most sub $1500 true 5 hp comps on market have that setup... no mag starter.


No trouble w either one of my comp , just my experience.

Marc

 

[NoMoreGreen]

You ABSOLUTELY must include the magnetic starter as the pressure switch can't take the amps that a 5 HP motor draws...for very long.

I strongly suggest the after cooler option. SB is the only manufacturer that I know of that mounts the fan in the motor shaft which puts a lot more air through the heat exchanger.

If cost isn't an issue...go with the pressure lubed, but again, not necessary in a homeowner setting.

Well...you say "NO MORE GREEN"...but...https://www.compressorworld.com/adv...tage-w-acac-80-gallon-230v-1-phase-vr5-8.html

Personally, I believe they both are great units. The Champion wins for ease of valve maintenance, but the SB has the win for aftercooler design. Flip a coin!

Thank you for the information on the mag starter, you verified something a sparky friend of mine told me. While I trust his electrical knowledge, he is not a tool guru. I guess he was right here.

The champion is in the same price range as the two SB's I am looking at. I will add that one to the list.

The girlfriend stated she never wanted to have me buy another air compressor again so to buy what I wanted, not what I felt was a reasonable compromise. Sooooo. I need it to last at least 30-40 years....

NoMoreGreen is a stab at my occupation. I work for the government so I don't make much money. I spend good money on tools and boots/shoes and that's pretty much it. The girlfriend sees how much money the good tools save us.


Thank you all,
NMG

 

[clinebarger]

I too have seen pressure switches last for years on a 5hp single phase compressors as they are very common in Professional Garages/Shops across America .
@ 22 Amp Square D pressure switches had to have existed at one point, I don't really know if they still do?

A magnetic starter is good for running a low amp remote turn-on switch (Like a light switch for example)

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

NMG...A couple more included options on the Champion 'Advantage' package that are key bonuses are the 'pneumatic condensate drain' and 'low oil level shutdown'

 

[matt_i]

I too have seen pressure switches last for years on a 5hp single phase compressors as they are very common in Professional Garages/Shops across America .

I bought my IR T30 compressor in 1998. Its still rocking the original pressure switch to directly start and stop the motor.

A contactor/motor starter is in the future but only for 24vdc enable/inhibit functions.

Pressure switch is dialed back to 130psi by turning the nut to reduce pressure on the spring.

 

[driftpin]

You ABSOLUTELY must include the magnetic starter as the pressure switch can't take the amps that a 5 HP motor draws...for very long.

I strongly suggest the after cooler option. SB is the only manufacturer that I know of that mounts the fan in the motor shaft which puts a lot more air through the heat exchanger.

If cost isn't an issue...go with the pressure lubed, but again, not necessary in a homeowner setting.

Well...you say "NO MORE GREEN"...but...https://www.compressorworld.com/adv...tage-w-acac-80-gallon-230v-1-phase-vr5-8.html

Personally, I believe they both are great units. The Champion wins for ease of valve maintenance, but the SB has the win for aftercooler design. Flip a coin!

https://www.compressorworld.com/5-h...-air-compressor-single-phase-vt-735-80-1.html
https://www.compressorworld.com/5-h...lon-tank-230-volt-1-phase-vt-pl-735-80-1.html

Since it was mentioned, the above are the two compressors I am looking at currently. They work out similar in cost after the magnetic starter is added or the pressure lube.

I live in Dallas Fort Worth texas. I will get that added to my profile.

I'm gonna put this in, I stopped by my south Florida friend's shop, he sells new and used air compressors, and does repairs. If he has to leave the county for a service call, $200 to start. He's been in business 36 years, and is very busy, the phone in the office isn't silent for very-long. He deals with a lot of industrial settings, the marine industry is a big employer here, and he's always servicing marine repair shops, boatyards, auto-body shops, and other industrial settings.

A scrapper came-by, he had a unit he wanted to see if the shop owner would want it. The shop owner, while the air compressor was still on the scrapper's trailer, told him what he would pay for it if it powered-up. The scrapper said, "go ahead," and the shop owner removed the air compressor with his forklift. He put it into the shop, and started it, it ran. He said that he suspected either the capacitor or the magnetic starter was in-need of replacement, but the unit did run continuously. It showed evidence of having-been dropped, as something on the unit was bent, but my friend the shop owner pointed to the flywheel/fan, and said, that if that was wobbling, the crankshaft of the pump was bent and he wouldn't give the guy the agreed-upon price, because of it.

He bought the unit, and said he would disassemble the discs (the manufacturer uses discs instead of reed valves) and clean them, install new gaskets, check out the capacitor and magnetic switch, change the oil, clean it up, new filter, new belt, and test run it for a half-hour or so. Then he would sell it.

What was it? A Saylor-Beall, 80 gallon tank, an upright; Baldor 1 phase 240 V 24 amp motor, 16 CFM air compressor. He said he could get $750 for it, easily.

What's your budget? What size compressor are you looking-for? Too-bad you're so-far away.

Pic #1 is the scrapper's compressor my friend bought, pic #2 is my Saylor-Beall 704 80 gallon 240 V, 1 phase, 24 amp Baldor motor unit I bought from him this year. Interestingly, the same model, though mine has a new Baldor motor and new Square D magnetic starter.

There are deals out there, and I'd say that this Saylor-Beall will probably be the last compressor I buy. I'm retired, full SS age, so I have a reasonable expectation of this being the case. The unit is getting home shop use, I usually use it for a bead blaster and an air nozzle for blowing **** off after a solvent spray-down of some old motorcycle parts.