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Air compressor tripping breaker at startup when cold.

cosmokenney

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I have a 26 Gallon Quincy (Q12126VPQ) that is tripping the breaker in the garage when I try to start it up in the cold weather (like 20F degrees).
I suspect the Quincy 40W oil is just too thick because it runs fine when warm. But it is not always practical for me to run a propane heater in the garage for 2 hours before starting a project.
Any suggestions on what to do? I can get Napa non-detergent 30W oil, but I am thinking that won't be thin enough to make a difference. Think I could run a lighter oil?
I did some searching and found a post from a Quincy employee that said if it is below 32F, to run their compressor in a heated build. But that just isn't going to cut it.
 
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The Cobbler

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try synthetic oil . also, I have another idea, but first try loosening the discharge line to atmosphere and see if it starts then. if it does I will explain how to add a cold start bleeder to your system
 

wk2023

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Ether your motor is weak or oil is to heavy
During colder weather oil will thicken it could also be your running to heavy oil to begin with? This could be the issue
 
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cosmokenney

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try synthetic oil . also, I have another idea, but first try loosening the discharge line to atmosphere and see if it starts then. if it does I will explain how to add a cold start bleeder to your system
Looks like Amsoil makes a SAE 20 and SAE 30/40 synthetic. Think the 20 would be good? And, yes, when its about 20-25 degrees I can open the ball valve (drain) and wait until it gets below about 30 psi on the tank, then turn the on switch and give the fan/pulley a little nudge to get it started. It will falter for a second, but will start and run just fine from there. Even if I close the valve once it is up and running it will keep running until ~120 psi - like normal.

Ether your motor is weak or oil is to heavy
During colder weather oil will thicken it could also be your running to heavy oil to begin with? This could be the issue
I am running Quincy branded 40W oil -- which is all they recommend for this compressor. I am trying to contact them but their site crashes when I fill out the on-line contact form. So I'll have to wait until tomorrow to call them.
 

Jswain

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Looks like Amsoil makes a SAE 20 and SAE 30/40 synthetic. Think the 20 would be good? And, yes, when its about 20-25 I can open the ball valve and wait until it gets below about 30 psi on the tank, then turn the on switch and give the fan/pulley a little nudge to get it started. It will falter for a second, but will start and run just fine from there.


I am running Quincy branded 40W oil -- which is all they recommend for this compressor. I am trying to contact them but their site crashes when I fill out the on-line contact form. So I'll have to wait until tomorrow to call them.
Your pump specs 40w oil only so I wouldn't go down to 20w. If you do make sure you switch back before spring/summer
 

wk2023

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It could be not getting enough amps the initial start up takes a lot more juice then running especially if it cold out
 

u3b3rg33k

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Your pump specs 40w oil only so I wouldn't go down to 20w. If you do make sure you switch back before spring/summer
single weight oils are regularly changed out based on the season. 40 weight is specified for adequate protection when running long and hard and hot. Remember, if the oil is too thick to flow it provides very little protection. you should absolutely consider your startup temps and average temps when choosing an oil. or you can preheat the compressor before operating it (LOL).
 

Jswain

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single weight oils are regularly changed out based on the season. 40 weight is specified for adequate protection when running long and hard and hot. Remember, if the oil is too thick to flow it provides very little protection. you should absolutely consider your startup temps and average temps when choosing an oil. or you can preheat the compressor before operating it (LOL).
Yep you can change them out, or run a better quality synthetic like the amsoil 30/40 and run it year round. I run it in Alberta, Canada so I'm pretty sure it's good for anywhere in north america other then maybe Alaska/territories.
 

demarpaint

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A synthetic oil can help, you can also plug in a heat lamp and heat up the the oil sump before using the machine.
 

Steve_P

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standard 4 cycle lawnmower oil is 30 wt- they run in 100F+ weather, continuously, and are also air cooled. Why would an air compressor need anything thicker?
edit- I have a quincy 7.5 HP and have run 30 wt in it for 10+ years.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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On my portable oil bath compressor I wrap a battery blanket around the compressor head and plug it in for 15 minutes before firing it up. Works great down to as cold as I work, which is -16C. The blanket is mounted permanently with tie wire .
 
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cosmokenney

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standard 4 cycle lawnmower oil is 30 wt- they run in 100F+ weather, continuously, and are also air cooled. Why would an air compressor need anything thicker?
edit- I have a quincy 7.5 HP and have run 30 wt in it for 10+ years.
Thanks. This is my first quality compressor so haven't had the years of experience that most of you all on this forum have. I am going to try the amsoil and go from there.
 

Steve_P

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Thanks. This is my first quality compressor so haven't had the years of experience that most of you all on this forum have. I am going to try the amsoil and go from there.

My compressor is indoors, it rarely gets below 55F.

I would try to add some type of heat source, as mentioned above. I like the small, heated blanket idea.

But I still think this should start up at 20F. I'm in the southern US, but it gets to 20F here, and there are plenty of outdoor compressors at commercial shops. There is no way that they change to a thinner oil in the winter; I doubt they change the oil once a decade. But if thinner oil works for you, then that's the answer....
 
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cosmokenney

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It could be not getting enough amps the initial start up takes a lot more juice then running especially if it cold out
I just moved to this house in June and haven't had a chance to deal with the garage wiring other than running a 220V circuit for my welder. The compressor is currently on a 15Amp circuit. So once I find what the compressor requires I will run a new dedicated circuit for it. But there is no power requirements listed in the owner's manual. So I have to call quincy tomorrow to find out.
 
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cosmokenney

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This. Even a 20a is marginal. How many amps is your breaker?
15 Amps. See above. Just recently moved in to this fixer upper and have had dozens of other projects ahead of fixing the garage wiring. I'll probably throw a 30A in with appropriate wiring later this week. Hopefully my local hardware store has what I need in stock.
 

PoorUB

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For about twenty years I ran 10 weight year round in my compressor that sat in the cold. I still have that compressor and it is close to 40 years old so it doesn't seem like 10 weight bothered it in the summer.
 

finn

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I would start by making sure you’re not trying to start it with pressure above the piston, ie a bad check valve or unloaded they lets tank pressure bleed to the top of the piston.

disconnert the air outlet pipe at the head, then try starting it cold

if it starts, replace the check valve.
If it doesn’t start verify voltage and then proceed from ther per recommendation from the group.

A synthetic, even 40 wt if they make it, should have a flatter viscosity curve and improve things.
 

Jagmandave

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You could just set a 100 watt bulb in a trouble lamp next to the sump, that will warm it up. I had the same issue with my old compressor running 30wt compressor oil, trying to start when cold on a 20 A 120V line. The belt would squeal as it tried to start then if it did get going it ran rally slow for the first 10 seconds or so.....then it was up to normal speed and worked fine till I tried it again the next morning.

My current 60 gal compressor runs on 240, always starts no matter how cold on the OEM 30wt oil.
 

metlmunchr

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That's a 2 hp 120V only motor that pulls 19 full load amps. It has been discontinued but the replacement appears to use the same motor but the specs say it requires a 30 amp circuit rather than 20 amp. In reality, running a 19A motor on a 20A circuit wouldn't comply with the electrical code. As of now, your 15A circuit likely also has 14ga wire which is undersize for the load. I'm surprised that it'll start on a 15A breaker at any ambient temperature.

Why any manufacturer would put a 120V 2hp motor on a compressor is beyond me. Should have been a dual voltage where it could be connected for 240V and run on a 15A 240V circuit as the FLA would drop to 10 amps or less. Just to make sure, I'd check the nameplate on the motor and verify that it is indeed a single voltage motor.
 
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cosmokenney

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That's a 2 hp 120V only motor that pulls 19 full load amps. It has been discontinued but the replacement appears to use the same motor but the specs say it requires a 30 amp circuit rather than 20 amp. In reality, running a 19A motor on a 20A circuit wouldn't comply with the electrical code. As of now, your 15A circuit likely also has 14ga wire which is undersize for the load. I'm surprised that it'll start on a 15A breaker at any ambient temperature.

Why any manufacturer would put a 120V 2hp motor on a compressor is beyond me. Should have been a dual voltage where it could be connected for 240V and run on a 15A 240V circuit as the FLA would drop to 10 amps or less. Just to make sure, I'd check the nameplate on the motor and verify that it is indeed a single voltage motor.
I am starting to think it is time to look into a 240V with a bigger tank. I got the Quincy 26 Gal when I was renting. But now that I just bought this place I might just put a 60 Gal in the shed next to the garage. The extra capacity and CFM would be much appreciated, too.
 
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cosmokenney

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Just want to say thanks to everyone who replied.
I got the Amsoil 20W Synthetic in a couple of days ago and changed the oil. When I drained the old oil it was a silvery gray color. But I find it odd that when I was looking at the oil site glass the old oil was clear with a slight brown tint, just like when I originally put the oil in. I don't think it changed colors at all. So all that gray **** must have been sitting at the bottom of the crank case (or whatever you call it).
With the new oil, she starts right up, no problems!
 

Jswain

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Just want to say thanks to everyone who replied.
I got the Amsoil 20W Synthetic in a couple of days ago and changed the oil. When I drained the old oil it was a silvery gray color. But I find it odd that when I was looking at the oil site glass the old oil was clear with a slight brown tint, just like when I originally put the oil in. I don't think it changed colors at all. So all that gray **** must have been sitting at the bottom of the crank case (or whatever you call it).
With the new oil, she starts right up, no problems!
That's normal as it would be non detergent oil, so all the bad **** will not be suspended in the oil it falls to the bottom
 

wk2023

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I just moved to this house in June and haven't had a chance to deal with the garage wiring other than running a 220V circuit for my welder. The compressor is currently on a 15Amp circuit. So once I find what the compressor requires I will run a new dedicated circuit for it. But there is no power requirements listed in the owner's manual. So I have to call quincy tomorrow to find out.
Remove the wiring cover on motor it should have to options one for 110 and another for 220 wiring , plus it's better on the unit to run 220 if you can they run cooler and don't have to work as hard
 
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cosmokenney

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that's an indication of metal in the oil . might want to keep an eye on that with the new oil .
My thought as well. Might be time to look into a 60 Gal. The quincy is super quiet. Like have a conversation while standing next to it quiet. But has often left me wanting more capacity to run air tools for a long period of time. And despite the claimed 7.4 CFM @ 100 PSI it can't keep up with a small die grinder.
 
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