Air compressor upgrade

[RickP330]

Hi guys,
I have a Quincy 325 vertical air compressor. 80 gallon, 5 HP dual stage. I'd like to update the crankcase of the compressor to include an oil filter, and I would like to modify the plumbing so I can decide to run the compressor full time without it cycling on and off, or leave it in conventional mode.
Not sure how hard it would be to do either any help advice or schematics would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Rick

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Hi guys,
I have a Quincy 325 vertical air compressor. 80 gallon, 5 HP dual stage. I'd like to update the crankcase of the compressor to include an oil filter, and I would like to modify the plumbing so I can decide to run the compressor full time without it cycling on and off, or leave it in conventional mode.
Not sure how hard it would be to do either any help advice or schematics would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Rick

You need a pilot valve plumbed from the tank to the head unloaders. The cut in and cut out range must be within the range of the electric pressure switch, but not higher than the cut out pressure of the switch. The air signal.from the tank to the pilot valve must go through an isolating hand valve so it can be taken offline to let the electric pressure switch do its job when you don't want constant run.

To get an oil filter, you just need a newer rear bearing carrier, not a whole crankcase. You will need to set it up for the proper rotation of your compressor. This is done by blocking a port inside the oil filter housing. You will likely have to replace the Timken bearing on the end of your crank unless you are comfortable running an old bearing in a new race. You may have to reshim the front oil seal housing to get the proper preload on the new bearings. None of this is difficult. Getting the flywheel off may be a challenge. You will have to take the rods off the crank. If you push them up the bore you might have enough clearance to send the crank out the back of the compressor, otherwise you will have to pull the block off.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Actually, the lower cut in pressure of the pilot valve should be lower than the cut in pressure of the pressure switch to ensure it toggles on to let the motor start. The cut out pressure of the pilot valve must be lower than the cut out of the pressure switch so the motor does not shut off.

 

[On-Wheel]

Pretty sure the plumbing is on YouTube for a 325.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

http://www.cdivalve.com/products/detail/model-p25

There is a screw thread on it to mount it to the back of the bearing carrier.

 

[RickP330]

Wow,
Great stuff, thank you guys!
Rick

 

[redmondjp]

Go to the Quincy website and download the following documents:

QR-25 Series Model 325 parts (check your Record of Change/ROC and download appropriate file)

The above document discusses the three different compressor control schemes, named "L", "LS", and "LVD". The last one, LVD, allows you to select between "start/stop" and "continuous run" modes for the unloading.

Also download the "Quincy QR-25 Series Instruction Manual" from the same site.

Between these two documents you should be pretty much covered.


Regarding the oil filter, I would respectfully disagree with the poster above that it is easy to add - if you are set up with a fully-equipped shop and have the proper tools to move and disassemble the pump then sure. For me in my garage, not so much. Hell, it takes an engine hoist or overhead crane just to lift that pump off the compressor due to its weight. Add attempting to remove the flywheel from the pump, and I'm out, full stop. Your situation may be different. Plenty of horror stories on this forum regarding trying to remove flywheels, with other stories about dropping them which either bends or breaks them. You'll spend several hundred dollars just to get another one, if this happens to you.

I would just change your oil on a regular schedule and not worry about the filter. If your compressor was operating 24/7/365 in a very dusty environment (say like a silica mine or something like that), then it might be worth the effort. But for your use, it's a lot of added work and with normal maintenance that pump will still outlive you as well as your grandchildren w/o an oil filter.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Not difficult as in not complicated. You will work up a sweat guaranteed!

 

[sberry]

Go to the Quincy website and download the following documents:

QR-25 Series Model 325 parts (check your Record of Change/ROC and download appropriate file)

The above document discusses the three different compressor control schemes, named "L", "LS", and "LVD". The last one, LVD, allows you to select between "start/stop" and "continuous run" modes for the unloading.

Also download the "Quincy QR-25 Series Instruction Manual" from the same site.

Between these two documents you should be pretty much covered.


Regarding the oil filter, I would respectfully disagree with the poster above that it is easy to add - if you are set up with a fully-equipped shop and have the proper tools to move and disassemble the pump then sure. For me in my garage, not so much. Hell, it takes an engine hoist or overhead crane just to lift that pump off the compressor due to its weight. Add attempting to remove the flywheel from the pump, and I'm out, full stop. Your situation may be different. Plenty of horror stories on this forum regarding trying to remove flywheels, with other stories about dropping them which either bends or breaks them. You'll spend several hundred dollars just to get another one, if this happens to you.

I would just change your oil on a regular schedule and not worry about the filter. If your compressor was operating 24/7/365 in a very dusty environment (say like a silica mine or something like that), then it might be worth the effort. But for your use, it's a lot of added work and with normal maintenance that pump will still outlive you as well as your grandchildren w/o an oil filter.

I am a little with this. Way back when I was learning had to have the best and every feature,,, the guy finally said to me,,, if you can manage to wear this out it won't owe you and can get something better,,,, so far havnt put 10% on it in 20+ years. Havnt even changed the oil.
So,, what is it you are going to use it for? I can sandblast and sand and run it continious without adding anything.

 

[TonyJ]

I also agree with the no oil filter. I had a 230 which is the single stage version of the 325 and even shares the same crankshaft and my 230 was a 1962 model and was put into service in 1963 and it was ran 18-20 hrs a day 7 days a week up until 2014 when the water plant that it was at was shut down and other than regular services and valve cleanings it never once suffered any bearing failures. So to me it would be allot of work for no real benefit unless someone was just wanting to do it to skip out on some servicing


Tony

 

[pcmeiners]

Rick, have you checked out the cost the parts you would need ? There is very little on a 325 which comes cheap. The only place to get cheap is Ebay, and cheap only comes with patience or unusual luck on Ebay,.