Im still fairly new to this forum so please excuse me if I sound like a nube, but I have a question on how to build an air compressor wall outlet, that looks similar to the picture I attached. So heres the issue, my parents are finally letting me renovate the garage but I need everything I do to look professionally done. Thats why after hours of scouring the internet I found this picture and I want to replicate the design just without the switch so I would have the pressure gage and the quick connect. Can someone explain how the person attached the coupler to the outlet cover and made it look so professionally done. Sorry for the stupid question but any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
Air Compressor Wall Outlet
- Thread starter mheinz
- Start date
dave89iroc
Well-known member
the coupler itself is the fastener, one washer on the outside under the coupler, looks like 2 on the inside to space it so it tightened on the plate when the coupler was tightened on the pipe fitting
JPinSTL
Well-known member
I'm going to assume you are younger and potentially a noob since this is your parents place.
Make sure this is a metal cover plate!! Pics do not make it obvious. A plastic plate will crack the first time you plug anything into that air chuck. A metal cover plate won't like it either. I think there are better solutions available. Look at RapidAir for an easy DIY airline kit.
Make sure this is a metal cover plate!! Pics do not make it obvious. A plastic plate will crack the first time you plug anything into that air chuck. A metal cover plate won't like it either. I think there are better solutions available. Look at RapidAir for an easy DIY airline kit.
matt_i
Well-known member
Look up "bulkhead fitting". This is a tube, but has threads on the OD as well so it can be tightened with thin nuts, to some kind of a panel-pass through.
That's a purchased component which could help if you don't have the ultimate set of fabrication tools yet
Personally I would use a metal cover plate (more durable, paint later if desired), and push-to-connect airline fittings and flex tubing. So much easier to fish thru the wall. You will find these at McMaster.com, although Legris, Numatics, and SMC all make their own lines of the same products.
That's a purchased component which could help if you don't have the ultimate set of fabrication tools yet
Personally I would use a metal cover plate (more durable, paint later if desired), and push-to-connect airline fittings and flex tubing. So much easier to fish thru the wall. You will find these at McMaster.com, although Legris, Numatics, and SMC all make their own lines of the same products.
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Colin Len
Well-known member
I'm with JPinSTL on this one. I like that idea, but if it were me I'd want to try and find a way to make it a floating design so that nothing needs to attach to the plate. As others mentioned, a plastic plate will break quickly. And with a metal plate the durability is dependent on how well that plate is attached to...well, whatever you attach it to (since you're not using any elec, it doesn't need to be an elec box). I'd rather attach all of the plumbing to a stud or other support piece you can add and then use some sort of plate to cover the hole, that way no vibration from the compressor or any force you apply to the connector will be transmitted to the cosmetic plate. Probably easier said than done if you're set on using an elec switch/outlet plate.
What's easiest probably depends on what all you're doing - for example, is there currently drywall up, will you be removing drywall or are you willing to do any drywall work? I'm assuming there will be drywall work if you're planning on getting the air lines INTO the wall. In that case you can just drywall around the fittings when you're done. Of course access to the connections later wouldn't be easy.
What's easiest probably depends on what all you're doing - for example, is there currently drywall up, will you be removing drywall or are you willing to do any drywall work? I'm assuming there will be drywall work if you're planning on getting the air lines INTO the wall. In that case you can just drywall around the fittings when you're done. Of course access to the connections later wouldn't be easy.
TLCObsession
Well-known member
I think that you would run afoul of the electrical inspector with a setup as pictured. Even with low voltage, you have to have a 'divider' if you are sharing the gang box. If you have it in a separate pass through box, you would be fine.
I wouldn't want hose in the wall, so then you get into either precise placement of the hard line or the need to make custom length standoff pipes....
I wouldn't want hose in the wall, so then you get into either precise placement of the hard line or the need to make custom length standoff pipes....
nehog
Well-known member
I think low voltage (Class 2) would be OK with virtually any inspector.
sberry
Banned
Why have any outlet, plumb to a whip or hose reel.
So I was dead set on this outlet idea. I put it into pegboard I was installing in my garage and I think it turned out pretty well. Check out my other threat where I go more in depth into the project.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5742192&posted=1#post5742192
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matt_i
Well-known member
Great start, Heinz Keep building up your skills!
Keep building up your skills!larry4406
Well-known member
lonestarky
Well-known member
Looks good. What is the cover plate bolted to? Don't those normally screw to the receptacle, or the switches in the gang box?
I hope it is as durable as you need it to be!
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I used a square box device cover that was unraised. This puts 2 holes on the top and 2 holes on the bottom that match the holes the screws go into on the metal cover. The cover is also kept in place because of the 2 holes with the gauge and coupler going through them.
NWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
You need a couple of these: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=83294678&mkwid=[*GCLIP*]&prcid=[*GCLSRC]
Use a metal ice maker supply box like this.
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Metal IMB2.pdf
Use a metal ice maker supply box like this.
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Metal IMB2.pdf
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FunkyfullWidth
Well-known member
I'm getting ready to do the same thing. I'm going to use blank covers for a 3 wide box. Then drill and mill accordingly. It looks like the washers in that picture are also for covering the holes. It kinda looks like a plastic cover, which whatever, not what I would use... But if you see the middle spot the guy cut out the anchor point from a plug or switch to use to mount the cover as well as using the switch.
Its not, its actually a 2 gauge blank metal cover. I would agree with you funkyfullwidth that you would probably want to have support for the blank metal cover when working with a box that is 3 gagues wide. But I didn't feel it was necessary for my project and heres why. My blank metal over is 4.5"x4.5". It has 4 screws supporting it that screw directly into the outlet box. This means there is never an area more then around 1.5" away from a screw. But this isn't the only support I have for it. Both the gague and the coupler are going to be connected to the piping behind the pegboard with bulkheads (backordered so they havent come in yet.) This provides 2 more strong mounting spots for the blank metal cover. I honestly felt like I had enough support for the cover becuase the thing stays in place really well and that is without the bulkheads.
sberry
Banned
If I dont have a reel have a section of hose dropped from screwed connection. I try not to ever disconnect, no need for a hydrant and a coupler which are pretty much pointless without a hose. We seem to feel insulted b quick connectors but are inclined to add extra in, easiest way to eliminate restriction is to remove it.
Gould hide in a cabinet.
Gould hide in a cabinet.
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nadogail
Well-known member
If I were asked to build one like the OP posted, I would close ****** a tee on the exposed side and an elbow or coupling on the concealed side. The supply would be plumbed to the coupling or elbow.
My advice is guaranteed to be worth exactly what paid for it. Any money you sent me will be cheerfully refunded.
My advice is guaranteed to be worth exactly what paid for it. Any money you sent me will be cheerfully refunded.
Honestly Im perfectly fine with having a bunch of hoses hanging behind the bench or on a reel, but my dad hates the look of it. The only way he would allow me to have hoses running where I need them is if it was just a coupler he had to see. So I agree with you sberry, seems like alot of work for not a great reason, but the reason I did it was so I could have airlines coming to my bench and not have to pick them up each time I leave the garage. Also it was to prove a point to my dad that I can build something that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing in an effort to be allowed do more projects on the garage.
