Air compressor water seperation?

[alexp1289]

Hey guys I'm new to the forum this is my first post. I would like a little bit of help with trying to find the best air compressor water separator for my garage. I'm trying to take really good care of my new IR air tools that I just invested in but I am not very knowledgeable about air compressors and water separators. What would you guys recommend that will do what I need it too and keep my tools free of moisture?

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[NKlamerus]

Sub'd, have you searched yet?

 

[Bills86e]

Local home improvement stores like home depot - loews ect , should have something!
A couple drops in the tools air ****** before you put the hose on would help. These stores also sell in-line oilers.
If you are useing a Plasma cutter, water in the line is a no-no!

 

[alexp1289]

I did a google search and got a good amount of results from here but didn't see any mention a good reliable DIY brand. And as I've found with air tools, the brand can make or break the tool.

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[alexp1289]

I'm leaning towards a wall mounted water seperator. Just don't know what brand to buy.

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[Tig Master]

https://www.google.com/search?q=fra...inator&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&spell=1

T

 

[alexp1289]

Anything I can just buy that will do the moisture seperating? I'm not really looking to build anything LOL. I currently use my dad's garage so was hoping for a plug and play solution.

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[n8n]

subscribed... I've finally plugged most of the leaks in my friend's shop's air system (one hose reel needs replacing to make it leak free, or are repair kits available for the swivel piece?) but the air is coming out very wet. Appears to be a water separator up in the ceiling, if I can't fix it would love to know what's good to replace it with. Too many choices, and I am fairly unfamiliar with this stuff...

 

[stonesfan68]

My advice after 20+ years in the compressor industry is to call your local industrial air compressor distributor and buy an industrial type moisture separator. I'd skip anything you can buy at a big box store. Quality brands include Hankison, Ingersoll-Rand, Zeks, and Atlas Copco.


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[Fixnair]

Cool the air as much as you can anywhere along the way. Right after the compressor and before the tank with an aftercooler will remove about 60% of the moisture. It will drop out in the tank where it should be drained away often. You can make a decent one with an old automotive condenser mounted in front of your compressors fan/flywheel.
Further cooling, usually by mechanical means (refrigeration) will remove the remaining moisture. If you are handy you could run a coil of copper tubing through an old refrigerator to cool the air. You need to provide a water separator right after the tubing coil to allow the water to collect to be drained off often. Say you cool the air down to 40 degrees with your cooling system, then your air will be dry as long as the temperature of the air remains above that 40 degrees. More moisture will condense when the air drops below that 40 degrees.

 

[ZRX61]

I'm leaning towards a wall mounted water seperator. Just don't know what brand to buy.

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Mine are Sharpes.

like this:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/SprayGunDe...mNo=SHA+8130&gclid=CIeBm9f3_70CFY6Rfgod2bAAtQ

and this:

http://www.rakuten.com/prod/sharpe-...o&adid=18172&gclid=CNbA9ej3_70CFYdrfgodyScAWQ

 

[Vinko]

I agree with those who said look through the archives. I learned a lot and redid a lot of lines to remove moisture. But there are a few little gizmos you can plug at the end of the line when you’re doing paint, for instance. I think Prevost makes on and some are available via McMaster-Carr. They’re disposable and about $10-$15 each. I don’t know how long they’d last if it was your sole means of water filtration though. But it might be a quick fix.

 

[azhatchback]

I use about 25 feet of copper I sweated together with two down legs with ball valves to clear any collected moisture and a motor gaurd filter. I don't get any moisture in my junk. I mounted it to the wall with unistrut. If your going to paint you will want something like this. you can also make it from steel pipe. I found a good deal on copper at my local true value and it's much lighter. Built the condensation trap for about $80.00 and got the motor gaurd filter on amazon for about $60. Pic is not very good but you get the idea.

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[Durka]

Anything I can just buy that will do the moisture seperating? I'm not really looking to build anything LOL. I currently use my dad's garage so was hoping for a plug and play solution.

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Black Iron or Stainless. That will take care of 95% of it when plumbed correctly.

From there it depends upon what your running. Choices are, -

1. .05 Micron particle element/water,oil, - foreign matter separator.
2. .03 Micron particle element/water, oil, separator.
3. .01 Micron particle silica desiccant/residual vapor set up.

I run all 3, -for paint and blast. If I had a Plasma, -that would qualify as well.

For tools, you can get away with #1, -IF, you have your plumbing correct.

Here's a pick of all three, - @ the top.

View media item 39337___________________________

In line,-

View media item 39854
____________________________________

BTW, -Parker/Watts is also a very well known Industry name.

Good Luck!

 

[Durka]

subscribed... I've finally plugged most of the leaks in my friend's shop's air system (one hose reel needs replacing to make it leak free, or are repair kits available for the swivel piece?) but the air is coming out very wet. Appears to be a water separator up in the ceiling, if I can't fix it would love to know what's good to replace it with. Too many choices, and I am fairly unfamiliar with this stuff...

PITA isn't it ? It must be Black Iron

Yea, there's really only one product that seals well, then will take some movement after the fact. First, tightening = thread count divided by 3. For instance, 9 thread fittings you use the 3,3,3 method when tightening down. 3 loose, 3 engagement (thread), 3 threads left.

Use this sealant (no substitutes anymore), - Loctite 567 (replaced 545). You can also use 561 Quickstix past (Loctite as well). It also recommended that you use primer/adh promoter (Loctite Primer 7649) by Quincy and Loctite/Henkle Corp. The aerosol lasts much longer.

Other than that and unless you referring to stainless ,just wait until it rusts. They'll go away eventually.

 

[alexp1289]

Okay guys so I talked to my dad and he doesn't really want me putting a bunch of copper piping in his garage. So I'm thinking of just doing 50 feet of polyurethane air hose and then a water separator connected to a filter and then my plug in? Will that be enough for my IR tools (I won't be doing painting). I just want to keep contaminants out of my new babies These are my first really nice tools and I want to take really good care of them so I'm ocd about this LOL.

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[Durka]

Okay guys so I talked to my dad and he doesn't really want me putting a bunch of copper piping in his garage. So I'm thinking of just doing 50 feet of polyurethane air hose and then a water separator connected to a filter and then my plug in? Will that be enough for my IR tools (I won't be doing painting). I just want to keep contaminants out of my new babies These are my first really nice tools and I want to take really good care of them so I'm ocd about this LOL.

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Everyone is trying to help, but, -either you don't understand or perhaps your not listening ?..Iduno.

 

[alexp1289]

Seriously? If my dad would let me put a copper pipe contraption I would... But I don't have that option right now till I have my own garage. So from what I've been reading, the air needs to travel down a certain amount of pipe (most common I've seen people say is fifty feet) for water to condense to liquid. So I'm simply trying to figure out a solution. But I guess I'm stuck at a dead end. Unless I use a desiccant filter.

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[Clik]

Run a line from your first compressor tank to a second one and you'll be OK.

You can use an old propane tank, an old water heater, or an old compressor that died.

Shoot some air tool oil, trans fluid into your tools and hit the trigger real quick before you put them away.

 

[C96]

Run a line from your first compressor tank to a second one and you'll be OK.

You can use an old propane tank, an old water heater, or an old compressor that died.

Old water heater? What! Yea, good idea, pump that full of compressed air and you can expect a LOUD

 

[Durka]

Seriously? If my dad would let me put a copper pipe contraption I would... But I don't have that option right now till I have my own garage. So from what I've been reading, the air needs to travel down a certain amount of pipe (most common I've seen people say is fifty feet) for water to condense to liquid. So I'm simply trying to figure out a solution. But I guess I'm stuck at a dead end. Unless I use a desiccant filter.

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50' ? - Yea that's if your using copper runs, without a after cooler. Just put your hand on copper line without an after cooler. Yea, they get hot,- for a good stretch. Copper transfers heat, but not fast enough to use in runs without cooling it first. That cost bucks,- and it eats into your SCFM's.

Cheapest way that works is Black Iron or Stainless. Just run it straight up and down with a riser before station or at the header. 95% of the vaper is knocked down within 12' naturally.

Then just use a .05 Micron particle/water separator at the end of the run. That's the cheapest and effective way. Very little filter maintenance as well.

Sort of like this, -

View media item 40120
View media item 40119
Doesn't have to be exactly like that, -should give yuh an idea though.

 

[n8n]

PITA isn't it (fixing air leaks)? It must be Black Iron

Yea, there's really only one product that seals well, then will take some movement after the fact. First, tightening = thread count divided by 3. For instance, 9 thread fittings you use the 3,3,3 method when tightening down. 3 loose, 3 engagement (thread), 3 threads left.

Use this sealant (no substitutes anymore), - Loctite 567 (replaced 545). You can also use 561 Quickstix past (Loctite as well). It also recommended that you use primer/adh promoter (Loctite Primer 7649) by Quincy and Loctite/Henkle Corp. The aerosol lasts much longer.

Other than that and unless you referring to stainless ,just wait until it rusts. They'll go away eventually.

It is black iron, but whoever did it did a good job, that's not the problem.

I have, however, made new whips for every single hose reel, put new hose on two of them, replaced two different valves, and I don't remember what all else... Doesn't sound like much but it is hard to get up to work on this stuff in a working shop, customer cars always take priority over some guy who wants to set up a ladder between two bays. That's got pretty much everything shut up save for one of the hose reels the swivel is actually leaking so it still hisses slightly.

The air is also real wet, that's why I bothered to post in this thread - there is what looks like an old water/debris separator with an automatic drain up in the ceiling where the line feeding the hose reels tees off the main trunk line (which isn't really used anymore, it looks like the shop was plumbed for air over hydraulic lifts which were removed and replaced with electric Rotary two post lifts) but I've never seen it spit water. I meant to get up there yesterday and look at it but someone parked a Tahoe in that bay instead and I ended up getting suckered into changing the water pump...

 

[alexp1289]

One other quick question is that I hooked up the air tools to make sure that they work and I didn't have any oil laying around but I only ran for like a minute max (each). Was just checking to make sure I didn't get a defective unit. They should be fine right?

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[Rossco]

Black pipe, drops, aftercooler a etc etc remove water from the air but not the system. You need some quality filtration / seperation.

Here's what I use.

 

[ZRX61]

Seriously? If my dad would let me put a copper pipe contraption I would... But I don't have that option right now till I have my own garage.

Whats the issue, are you like 15 or something?

 

[Durka]

Old water heater? What! Yea, good idea, pump that full of compressed air and you can expect a LOUD

View media item 40146

 

[Steinmetz]

Run a line from your first compressor tank to a second one and you'll be OK.

You can use an old propane tank, an old water heater, or an old compressor that died.

Shoot some air tool oil, trans fluid into your tools and hit the trigger real quick before you put them away.

Ignore this advice if you want to continue living.

 

[alexp1289]

Whats the issue, are you like 15 or something?

No I'm 25 and don't have a garage at my place so I go and use my dad's garage. Once my girl and I are done with school and buy a house with a garage for my projects I'll setup a contraption like you guys mentioned.

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[Durka]

No I'm 25 and don't have a garage at my place so I go and use my dad's garage. Once my girl and I are done with school and buy a house with a garage for my projects I'll setup a contraption like you guys mentioned.

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Well, alright, -use a Cam air set up then...Right at the compressor. Its just one filter, but one of the best combo setups wrapped into one. It wont last very long, but it should work well enough for now. Get some extra filter bags for it. If by chance moisture is still up, then run an inline desiccant cartridge at the hose end before the gun. They are fairly cheap.

Give those guns of yours at least a couple drops of oil before each use.

To give you an idea how long it will last. The set is good for one paint job, mid size car, 6 coats. For what you doing, quite a bit longer. But it's pricy for those filters and takes a bit of maintenance to keep it flowing.

 

[C96]

50' ? - Yea that's if your using copper runs, without a after cooler. Just put your hand on copper line without an after cooler. Yea, they get hot,- for a good stretch. Copper transfers heat, but not fast enough to use in runs without cooling it first. That cost bucks,- and it eats into your SCFM's.

Cheapest way that works is Black Iron or Stainless. Just run it straight up and down with a riser before station or at the header. 95% of the vaper is knocked down within 12' naturally.

Then just use a .05 Micron particle/water separator at the end of the run. That's the cheapest and effective way. Very little filter maintenance as well.

Sort of like this, -

View media item 40120
View media item 40119
Doesn't have to be exactly like that, -should give yuh an idea though.

Once again Durka, sure like your use of the black iron. Very clean, nice and neat.

Also, I’m interested in your braided flex line. Did you have that custom made, or is it a standard purchase item.

 

[C96]

View media item 40146

 

[Durka]

Once again Durka, sure like your use of the black iron. Very clean, nice and neat.

Also, I’m interested in your braided flex line. Did you have that custom made, or is it a standard purchase item.

Thanks! It took allot of trial and error through the years to get a somewhat smaller machine to do big things with the bare necessities. OR, better yet, - to actually have 15.9 CFM's (All that IR has), or as close to it as possible at the end of line...Cleaned and Dried.

That a 24 x 3/4" Flexline. Not custom, just purchased a length they offered. Here's the page I purchased from, -

http://valvesandinstruments.com/met...-af4750-321-ss-flexhose-cs-mip-both-ends.html

It's good stuff if your don't bend it to much lol. Yea, it's corrugated flex inside. I'm not really crazy about it because it's turbulent for one. It'll flex fine, but it took 2' to get it @ 90* safely, which was fine for what I needed. I've seen guys crank them harder one way or the other rendering them unsafe. That one there is a 700 or 800 psi, but! over flexed I wouldn't trust them at any pressure. Hydraulic hose can withstand more flexibility... If your cornering.

There's a guy online selling braided, new take offs. Well, it's 300 psi with the better brass ends anyway,here, -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310363312913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

That's cheap ^^^ money wise IMO. I see he only has 10 left now though. Great if all you need is a slight flex or offset connect!

I wouldn't recommend the stainless flex w/BI unions however. They leak, -just as bad as all black iron 150 series unions can @ 175psi or close to it. You have to step up to a better union; the cost isn't much more. Unions should be the washered variety. I could only find those in Stainless, but, if you want them air tight at the higher pressures.... I've tried the over seas black Iron and the WARD (USA) version. WARD is much better, but will leak as well (the black iron only). They're better suited for lower pressure gas. Have some pic's of union types here, just what I'm referring to anyway, -

View media item 40167
The washered unions will just about seal @ 175psi hand tight. Not quite though. You won't hear them leaking , but if you hose them down w/soapy water, it's a bubble maker. So give it a half turn with a wrench; seals right up.

I apologize Alex (OP)...A little off subject.

 

[alexp1289]

Its fine I like seeing what others have done. Gives you good ideas sometimes

 

[railfancwb]

Maybe not exactly the answer you want, but here is an article about equipping the unit to drain some water from the tank each time the compressor cycles.

http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/