Air conditioning the shop.

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I have a 24' by 32' shop with no insulation at all but it is sealed up pretty good. I recently bought a property that was destroyed by hurricane Michael. In that house I have salvaged (2) 8,000 BTU and a 12,000 BTU window unit. I was thinking of using the newest 8,000 and the 12,000 unit in my shop. I know this will not be the most efficient way to cool it, but I believe it will be effective. I'm only going to run the ac when I'm going to be in the shop. I am going to install insulation a little along. What do you guys think of this?

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[The Cobbler]

I think with no insulation it will be a struggle to cool it with them

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I have it sealed up pretty well. I know that doesn't mean as much as insulation, but I am hoping it could keep enough air moving and drop it enough to be able to work.

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[xjfish]

I think with no insulation it will be a struggle to cool it with them

I agree. However, they will help. You have the units already. If they fit in the windows, why not? (Assuming you don't care about efficiency...) I would not build them into the walls. Insulate and size accordingly before doing anything permanent IMO.

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I googled the recommended btu and it said for the size around 18,000 btu. I will have 20,000 with both. Idk if you add them together like that or not. The shop only has one wall that has direct sunlight. Insulation is going to happen, but not for a while.

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[JimH74]

I have a 20x30 foot shop (600 sq feet) that has a 10&1/2 foot ceiling. It has some insulation, but it could certainly be improved. I use an 18000 btu air conditioner and it keeps it comfortable.

 

[ItsNemo]

Insulation would make a bigger difference...with no cooling, as long as I keep my garage closed it will stay below 25c even if it's 40c outside.

 

[ard]

I woould consider some radiant barrier- if you can. Kinda depends on your construction. Even in the attic/roof, can make your 20k BTU go further

ALso, beware that stuffing insulation, without understanding moisture control, can lead to issues. Just FYI

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

It is a pole barn that has 2X lathing with metal siding. I was planning of using foam board in the 1 3/4". Just enough to keep the heat from the metal out.

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[OneOfEm]

I'm in Pensacola and just closed in my shop (ongoing build). I can't fathom any AC unit being able to keep up with the Florida sun on the building without insulation.

Yes, it might be able to drop a few degrees, but it's still going to be hot in the afternoon.

Insulation in the ceiling will help most.

Free or cheap window units are great, but don't expect much without insulation.

 

[gungatim]

is a

 

[glentre]

Two ac units totaling 1.7 tons, in a 768 sq ft uninsulated garage with only one wall exposed to the sun should make you fairly comfortable. This is because you will be removing humidity from the space but maybe not dropping the temp as much as you would in your home. Ever notice that when you turn on an ac unit that has been off for some time, you start to feel more comfortable fairly quickly even though the actual temperature hasn't yet dropped at all? It's because the humidity level is dropping.

I would install the two units but understand they will likely run constantly and cost you in power consumption. Not being totally comfortable and spending a lot on power will give you the encouragement you need to start insulating, even if a little at a time in accordance with what you can afford.

Glen

 

[Jinks]

It'll help more than it'll hurt. The combined 20K is if the manufacturer is honest, & if they're working like new...I wouldn't count on it. OTOH, you have another 8K you could add if you need more. Some fans to stir the cool air will help. As you add insulation it'll get better.

 

[lis2323]

Personally I think you are wasting your time and money running those units without insulation. “Better than nothing “ would be a stretch....






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[ard]

It is a pole barn that has 2X lathing with metal siding. I was planning of using foam board in the 1 3/4". Just enough to keep the heat from the metal out.

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Read up on radiant. A layer against that metal- even better, w 1" of space to the metal, would allow the heat to be reflected out- then escape at the top of the airspace (youd vent that out of the conditioned space.

I wonder if the foil-faced foam, w foil out, and not touching the siding would be the thing....

 

[ItBurnsWhenIPee]

I have a 24x30x10 metal building with a thin layer of insulation w/radiant barrier between the trusses/purlins/frame and the sheet metal. Foil and maybe R3-R5 of insulation.

My 18k BTU window shaker would knock the edge off on a 100 degree day, knock it down to maybe 80 after the full day. That's just me working out there and no hot work.

So you'll probably be okay. Not optimal, but it'll keep you from being miserable. The key for me was getting out there really early and firing it up before it got too hot.

Also, window units will have your electrical meter spinning like it was getting paid for it.

 

[Bigbandguy]

Its worth doing considering the low cost. It is similar to buying more oil instead of replacing an engine.. The lowered humidity will make the biggest difference and it should help a lot on overcast days and early long evenings when you are likely to be in the shop. I would put them on a timer to start at least a couple of hours before you plan to be there. Please post how it comes out.

 

[My Old Tools]

You can always go stand in front of it when you are about to pass out.

 

[firebirdparts]

It works great for me, although I am not in Florida. With 2 tons, if I just turn it on when I go in there it's comfortable. You want it blowing right on you in that situation, and with window shakers you can probably arrange that.

 

[Jackfre]

You have the shop and the equipment and you have laid out your plan. I think that if you are going to be out in the shop on Sat, you had better start the gear running Friday night. What you are fighting is the mass of the building. Everything in there will be heat soaked and it will add to the load. You will get what you get until you insulate and begin to bring the load back to a sensible level. Once insulated you can make more permanent decisions for the space.

 

[bluegoose972]

I'm in the process of building a 30x35x12 metal work shop. Before the spray foam, you could feel the heat radiating off the red metal siding on the inside if you stood within 3 ft of the wall. And the wall would nearly burn your hand to touch. This was afternoon sun in the mid 90's here in Texas.

Applied 2" of spray foam and all the heat disappeared. You can put your hand on the foam and it's just the ambient temperature. The shop is actually significantly cooler during the day time that outside since your in the shade. And when I climb up on a ladder, the temperature is just slightly higher in the upper portion of the shop where before it had to of been 15-20 degrees hotter.

IMO, I don't think you can underestimate the importance of the insulation. With the heat radiating off the wall and roof from before, not sure window units would have a chance of cooling the shop without going WAY overkill and spending alot of money on electricity.

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I put in the 12,000 BTU unit in tonight. Let it run for about 2 hours, and could tell a noticeable difference between inside and out. I know this isn't a day time run, but haven't had it to test yet. If I need the 8,000 unit I will add it also. Working on getting insulation now.

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[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I went ahead and put in the other unit. It makes a bigger difference now. Like I said I'm going to start insulating it. Hopefully I will be able to use it some before winter.

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[gungatim]

wondering if stacking them like that will cause an issue with the lower one freezing up or shutting down?

 

[mike93lx]

Yeah, I would have separated them more, but it may work ok

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I really couldn't have spaced them out. The rest of the shop has an aluminum siding that I can't find any more. Can't match it up if I didn't like it, I would be stuck with a hole unless I put metal up on the entire side to match. I put these there because it use to be a door way to a small office like room. The room was destroyed and taken away by hurricane Michael. I built that frame and covered it with some metal just to get by for a while. Gonna see how it works.

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[6sally6]

Put the lawn sprinkler on the roof and sides of the building too! Water might cool the metal enough to make the no insulation/window unit deal work better.
6sally6

 

[tommyoneil38]

Proper insulation is very important.

 

[GMC driving SPARTAN]

I totally agree. I am working on the insulation. This makes a noticeable difference. I do not have hard numbers yet, but by feel it is definitely noticeable.

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[brownbagg]

what the big deal, if you already have them, plug them in and use them

 

[Chevy-SS]

Lookin good! Two A/C's plus insulation and you will be chillin'

 

[CAAnderson]

Nice one on the insulation - the AC's may keep the room cool without it, but they'll be using a ton of extra energy to do so. Would be fantastic if you could record the cooling effort required before and after installation!

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I really couldn't have spaced them out. The rest of the shop has an aluminum siding that I can't find any more. Can't match it up if I didn't like it, I would be stuck with a hole unless I put metal up on the entire side to match. I put these there because it use to be a door way to a small office like room. The room was destroyed and taken away by hurricane Michael. I built that frame and covered it with some metal just to get by for a while. Gonna see how it works.

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I'd fab some sort of baffle to go horizonatally between the upper and lower unit. It will help keep conditioned air from the lower unit being drwan into the upper unit.

Tommy