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Air Divert for Filters

Imatk

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Mar 13, 2008
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I finished setting up my copper piping for my compressor and despite having a DIY aftercooler (radiator) and auto water drain and about 15 feet of pipe before my dessicant filter I'm getting water through it pretty quickly.

I'd like to put some kind of "diverter valve" in the line so that when I'm not painting it will bypass the dryer filters that I have. But not sure how to achieve that.

I attached a screenshot of my current setup going into my three filters.

Thanks for any help.AirPipes.PNG
 
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racecougar

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Two tee's and a ball valve would divert the vast majority of the air. If you want complete isolation, use two 3-way ball valves.
 

BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
The two "loops" are probably catching water and causing problems also. I would get rid of them for sure.

I tried a large truck transmission cooler years ago and decided it was pretty worthless. I bet your radiator is the same.

Also I have always heard that all of your lines should slope back to the compressor. All of those up and down lines you have are probably contributing to the problem also.
 

Mick56

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Janesville Wisconsin
I think those loops in the rubber line may cause some problems. Water could collect in them, and when the water builds up enough to block the air, it could all blow through in a big blast of water.
 
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Imatk

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The reason I went with the hose was the last time I did this, screwing the filters into the pipe was kind of impossible once everything was "in"
 

racecougar

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The reason I went with the hose was the last time I did this, screwing the filters into the pipe was kind of impossible once everything was "in"
The use of hose isn't the problem; the low points are. If you're stuck with that hose length and layout, setting it up so that the arches in the hoses are up rather than down would help a lot.
 

engineer2

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Chicago burbs
A few questions..
The air from the compressor should be going in on the left (where the gauge is) and going out on the right. Is that how you have it?
Where do you live and what air temperature and humidity do you get? Humid areas need more aftercooling and desiccant to get moisture out.
How soon does that 5 ounces of desiccant in the last bowl turn pink?

Post up a picture of your aftercooler.

If you do a lot of painting keep an eye out for a good used 10 to 20 sfcm refrigerated air dryer. That would solve your problems.
 
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Imatk

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The use of hose isn't the problem; the low points are. If you're stuck with that hose length and layout, setting it up so that the arches in the hoses are up rather than down would help a lot.
Ok cool yes that would be a relatively easy fix I think.
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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Richmond, VA
Not sure what you mean... do you mean some kind of quick coupler?
No. It's a type of fitting. You would sweat it on and it gives you a way to disconnect two pipes in a run


Everbilt 3/4 in. Copper Pressure Cup x Cup Union Fitting
SKU# 204620217
 
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Imatk

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Mar 13, 2008
Messages
322
A few questions..
The air from the compressor should be going in on the left (where the gauge is) and going out on the right. Is that how you have it?
Where do you live and what air temperature and humidity do you get? Humid areas need more aftercooling and desiccant to get moisture out.
How soon does that 5 ounces of desiccant in the last bowl turn pink?

Post up a picture of your aftercooler.

If you do a lot of painting keep an eye out for a good used 10 to 20 sfcm refrigerated air dryer. That would solve your problems.
Yes it's coming in from left and going out right.

I'm in Round Rock, TX and it's hot as satan's backside and very humid here.

I think that bowl of dessicant (of course after I can't return it) is far to small for what I need. It probably took that bowl a couple days to turn pink so not very long.

I've ordered one of these to put in front of these filters:

So hopefully that will help keep my beads blue a bit longer.

My aftercooler is setup just like the one in this video with an automatic water drain
 
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Imatk

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Imatk

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Trying to find a 3-way valve... but all of them appear to be "push to connect" is that ok for this purpose?
 
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Imatk

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So basically put a T in above the current setup, then put a valve under that t and do the same for the other side?
 
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Imatk

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Just so I have this correct in my head... is this right?
 

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