OK, So we have air tools for everything from lug nuts, bolts, and almost everything in between.Air chisels,blow guns,along with air jacks. The list goes on. However,I have not read or heard much about "Air Drills"It is not high on my priority list but something that will wind up in my tools box.Why you ask? I think that a person has a better feel using air compared to a battery powered unit.You have more control and less chance to break a bit.Yes you can feel when a electric drill is under a load but in my limited experience an air tool provides a better feel.The one that has crossed my path is a 90 degree unit.I have my own cordless ones for the easiest access.What is your experience using an air drill? My last was drilling off rivets to replace a ball joint.Besides the hose these are light and require only a bit of lubrication from time to time.They have there place. Ken
Air Drills
- Thread starter Kenskip1
- Start date
Ram Hemi
Well-known member
My work has always provided corded 1/2" drills, mainly dewalt or makita. When the bit grabs (binds) the drill kicks and rips your arm half off or busts your knuckles. For that reason I ended up buying a Mac 1/2" air drill, it was less than half the price of the SO drill and the Mac guy was showing up that day anyways (I had busted a few knuckles that day drilling in ****** spots. Anyways, the air drills will not twist like a corded and cordless drill will when the bit binds. They are a little noisier and I would imagine the more you spend the quieter they get. The Mac 1/2" has been an awesome drill, I use it a lot.
Edit* like the next person said, they are generally a fair but smaller than cordless and corded drills. I put air swivels on all my air tools so I never fight the hose.
Edit* like the next person said, they are generally a fair but smaller than cordless and corded drills. I put air swivels on all my air tools so I never fight the hose.
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damnesia
Well-known member
I use my air drill a lot. I didn't think I would and avoided getting one for years. Then I had to drill some spot welds that my cordless drill couldn't reach. I checked out a friends drill and it had a much smaller foot print. I ordered one and it fits in a lot of tight places. Seems to have higher RPMs but I haven't verified that in the manual. I now rarely use my cordless drill in the shop. It's been demoted to staying in the house.
gtae07
Well-known member
I have an air drill for use on the airplane. Used it today, as a matter of fact.
The air drill is light, more compact, and fast. I much prefer a cordless drill for drilling out rivets but the air drill can get in places an electric one can't quite fit.
On the downside, it's loud and has a keyed chuck (it's old). And for all practical purposes this one is on or off, no variable control.
It doesn't get used much but it's there if I need it.
The air drill is light, more compact, and fast. I much prefer a cordless drill for drilling out rivets but the air drill can get in places an electric one can't quite fit.
On the downside, it's loud and has a keyed chuck (it's old). And for all practical purposes this one is on or off, no variable control.
It doesn't get used much but it's there if I need it.
md21722
Well-known member
The mechanics I've known have all had air drills though they may not always reach for them. Air tools are smaller and lighter and fit into tighter areas than their electric or cordless equivalents, however they use a lot of air. I strongly disagree with the comment about how they won't twist your hands. That is purely related to the power of the drill. Less powerful drills will stall first. More powerful ones will spin things just the same as electric.
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Ram Hemi
Well-known member
I don't think I would consider my mac drill nor the snap on's I have seen in use un powerful, when you stop pulling the trigger on them the chuck stops spinning, when you stop pulling the trigger on any corded drill the chuck spins another 20 turns, when you're torquing on a large bit and it grabs, it only spins around once, mainly because your weight is going around with it, or your smashed knuckles helped stop it. The Mac drill I have is very very similar power wise to any 1/2" dewalt or Makita electric drills, and I have used a few of them. Easily more powerful than any cordless drill. Air consumption for home use would definitely be a down fall, shouldn't be an issue in a decent shop.
shockwave
Well-known member
Had a old snap on pdr3 for years without any issues great if you do a lot of drilling too but with current cordless over shadows sir drills these days mostly aeronautics use air drills alot
Cope
Well-known member
I've had a Snap-on 3/8" and 1/2" since the mid 1980s and bought a Blue Point right angle shortly after. They are good tools to have but I don't get them out unless I'm working on a vehicle. All three are keyed chuck, which I prefer.
md21722
Well-known member
In terms of how many rotations it takes of them to stop after killing power to the tool, versus electric, that part is true. It's the same with angle grinders.
However, even a Snap On PDR5000A has enough torque to take an axle sitting on jack stands and knock it off the stands. If that same axle was bolted into the vehicle, your hand would still whack whatever it will when it whips around. And that's only half the power of something like a Milwaukee Magnum corded 1/2" drill from Home Depot. The equivalent to the Milwaukee Magnum is about a 1HP air drill. If you're only drilling sheet metal you don't need that kind of power. But if you're drilling larger holes through thicker metal, you do.
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K-Dog
Well-known member
Autobody so my air drill is high millage.
I have a small IR fitted with a HSS 1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes, but my main one is a Snap-On. Low speed high torque. It is very nice.
I have a small IR fitted with a HSS 1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes, but my main one is a Snap-On. Low speed high torque. It is very nice.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I have one that was giving to me and I've never found a reason to use it. I don't do any autobody work though. I also have an oilless compressor and don't want to have to listen to it run any more than I need to.
Empty Pockets
Well-known member
I ran a formica shop for years, and we had several air drills. An air drill with a quick connect is so much easier to use than hunting for a power cord, or the battery running out when you need it
gdocktor3
Well-known member
Air drills work great and offer high torque, low speed.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I have a Cornwell (rebranded IR if I am not mistaken) 1/2" reversible
cvairwerks
Well-known member
We use nothing but air drill motors at work. Everything from 0-6000 rpm palm sized variable speeds to big Thor 400 rpm monsters, up to Quackenbush multi-horsepower autodrills with coolant. The Thor's had enough torque running a .625" bit, that if it grabbed, and you were holding it wrong, it would break an arm. Coworker was using one and was out of position when it grabbed and it tossed him off the airplane. Charles weighed about 290 and it made him look like a ragdoll.
The Quackenbushes would run a .984" bit, no pilot hole, thru 1.5" of forged AL bulkhead, without slowing down a bit. We had both straight drive and gear drive units. Had to nearly beat a few guys to keep them from using them with gloves due to the open body design. Get a glove into the body and the drill wouldn't care.
For home I prefer an air unit too, but do have both electric and battery powered units for working out of compressor range, or out in the field.
The Quackenbushes would run a .984" bit, no pilot hole, thru 1.5" of forged AL bulkhead, without slowing down a bit. We had both straight drive and gear drive units. Had to nearly beat a few guys to keep them from using them with gloves due to the open body design. Get a glove into the body and the drill wouldn't care.
For home I prefer an air unit too, but do have both electric and battery powered units for working out of compressor range, or out in the field.
619DioFan
Well-known member
I have 2 HF air drills. straight and 90 degree. both about 10 years old. no issues with them. first time you have to drill out a broken bolt in some tight area you learn why that 90 degree drill is so needed.
MFolks
Well-known member
Aerospace assembly work was always air drills,from 1/4",3/8" up to the Quackenbush models that drilled, and counterbored mounting holes in major assemblies. They can be used in hazardous environments,as no motor sparks are created.
Specialty 45 and 90 degree 1/4-28 drills are the only tools to get into tight places for some of the difficult areas.
Specialty 45 and 90 degree 1/4-28 drills are the only tools to get into tight places for some of the difficult areas.
MFolks
Well-known member
www.browntool.com carries specialty aerospace Pneumatic drill,bits,and reamers.
OutsideMachinist
Well-known member
Use air drills almost exclusively. Dont care for electric drills or keyless chucks. Use mag bases fairly often, otherwise almost exclusively air drills . Use right angle drills quite a bit as well.
sberry
Banned
I have a couple. It would be a rare day to use one. Chances are if you havnt needed it you don't need it. Keep up the investment in cordless, we use them 10K times for every one air.
There are some environments and specialists that they are the tool for but this probably isn't you. The idea here is to get the right tool for you and this doesnt mean someones favorite.
There are some environments and specialists that they are the tool for but this probably isn't you. The idea here is to get the right tool for you and this doesnt mean someones favorite.
sberry
Banned
This is pretty much my point. You are a professional machinist in a shop, the OP is on a DIY forum.
I'm bringing this back from the (recent) dead. I just got a chance to play with a 4000 RPM Nova compact air drill.
http://www.panamericantool.com/novar-compact-pistol-grip-drill.html
Man what a great drill! You can easily control RPM from slow enough to see the drill as it spins to full speed. The drill is really light, even by air drill standards and so nice in the hand. Just an ideal drill if you are doing sheet metal work.
http://www.panamericantool.com/novar-compact-pistol-grip-drill.html
Man what a great drill! You can easily control RPM from slow enough to see the drill as it spins to full speed. The drill is really light, even by air drill standards and so nice in the hand. Just an ideal drill if you are doing sheet metal work.
BreeStephany
ALLIANCE MEMBER
As others have mentioned in here, air tools are kind of the industry standard in aviation and are generally required for use in and around fuel systems and areas which may hold fuel vapors because of the lack of an ignition source (brushes on an electric drill).
Sioux and Brown seem to be the industry standards from what I've seen, though I've heard that ATS makes a pretty decent product as well.
Sioux and Brown seem to be the industry standards from what I've seen, though I've heard that ATS makes a pretty decent product as well.
JRC3
Well-known member
Throw a wire wheel in the chuck. Easier to handle and better torque than a grinder. Trigger has better speed control. It's also reversible and that makes a difference to get into odd places.
What style and max rpm range air drill would you want for this? I don't have any air drills yet, this would be a great excuse to get one or two. Also would the same apply to the 3M radial bristle discs/brushes?
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
My air drill REALLY turns up. I can drill a 1/8” hole vertically through a piece of 1/4” thick hot rolled flat bar in about 3 to 4 seconds. It is mind blowing how fast it punches through.
JRC3
Well-known member
I guess a pic would answer all those questions. The wire brush drill is a PL1545 and specs show 2200rpm@90psi.
Sweet, thanks. Will have to pick up an old one, I had no idea people use them like this. What are the specs on the drill you're using with roloc scotchbrite discs? I thought those were meant for die grinder speeds, does running it low 4 figure RPMs just give you better control?I guess a pic would answer all those questions. The wire brush drill is a PL1545 and specs show 2200rpm@90psi.
No idea why you'd want to drag around an air hose today and use an air drill in a shop. I'm sure there's a one in a million use where it's superior to a modern cordless, but the ones I used in the 1980s had poor RPM control, essentially on and off.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Really want to use an electric tool while working in a fuel tank? Every air drill I've used in my career, other than Quackenbush's, had good, teaseable triggers and were easy to control rpms. A new, quality air drill is going to cost you more than $300 to about $1700, depending on speed range, size, maker and capacity and style.
JRC3
Well-known member
I have sorta recently retired a yellow 20v impact and a drill to the garage. I do use the 1/4 impact like crazy. And yes, the 20v drill gets used for a wire wheel. But, the air will always be there for when it's needed.
And if a guy already has air and wants a tool for abrasion...And maybe only wants to spend $25 as opposed to spending 5-10x that to jump into a cordless platform for a single tool...
Schurkey
Well-known member
I bought Mac Tools-branded (actually made in the USA by Viking) 3/8" and 1/2" air drills back in the early 1990s. They're 30+ years old now, used professionally for about half that time, hobby use since then. I got them with the Mac Tools vinyl covers. VERY recommended.
The actual drills I bought are LONG discontinued by Mac Tools, and now discontinued by Viking, but apparently there's still some in-stock at various retailers.
V342K--3/8, reversible, keyless chuck, in a kit with some accessories.
And
V343--1/2, reversible, keyed chuck, no kit.
The only real problem I've had with them, is that the 1/2" drill broke the chuck-screw, and I had NO fun finding a replacement screw. I'm still not satisfied with the screw I found (I suspect it's weak) but it was all I could locate that was flat-head and reverse-thread. Viking claims they don't have any replacement parts. Seems suspicious to me.
An air drill--unlike electric tools--gets colder the longer you use it. As such, they cannot overheat the motor. Whether the geartrain could possibly overheat, I don't really know--but it's never happened to me.
Keep 'em oiled, and they last practically forever.
The actual drills I bought are LONG discontinued by Mac Tools, and now discontinued by Viking, but apparently there's still some in-stock at various retailers.
V342K--3/8, reversible, keyless chuck, in a kit with some accessories.
And
V343--1/2, reversible, keyed chuck, no kit.
The only real problem I've had with them, is that the 1/2" drill broke the chuck-screw, and I had NO fun finding a replacement screw. I'm still not satisfied with the screw I found (I suspect it's weak) but it was all I could locate that was flat-head and reverse-thread. Viking claims they don't have any replacement parts. Seems suspicious to me.
An air drill--unlike electric tools--gets colder the longer you use it. As such, they cannot overheat the motor. Whether the geartrain could possibly overheat, I don't really know--but it's never happened to me.
Keep 'em oiled, and they last practically forever.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Schurkey: Let the geartrain go dry without the occasional greasing and they can get hot. Right angle and 45 deg heads have to be greased on occasion or they will overheat and burn up the bearings.
vanapplebomb
Well-known member
In my garage, I have 5 air drills, two corded drills, and no cordless drills. I almost always reach for the air drill. Last time I used my electric drill at home was last year when I had to use the hammer function to put a few holes in concrete.
Honestly, if you are drilling a lot of holes in metal, having an assortment of air drills is the bomb. Use the low speed ones for larger bits, and the high speed ones for small bits, 90 degree when space is an issue.
The thing I love most about air drills is that the motors are a constant torque motor. When the motor torque is overcome, it just stops. Electric drills kick back hard because the torque is proportional to current which spikes when you stall the motor. Doesn’t help you drill faster… just injures your hand and is hard on bits. Air drills all the way man.
Only down side is that they require a big air compressor. 5hp minimum for continuous use. But once you have a compressor up for the job, they make life super nice.
Honestly, if you are drilling a lot of holes in metal, having an assortment of air drills is the bomb. Use the low speed ones for larger bits, and the high speed ones for small bits, 90 degree when space is an issue.
The thing I love most about air drills is that the motors are a constant torque motor. When the motor torque is overcome, it just stops. Electric drills kick back hard because the torque is proportional to current which spikes when you stall the motor. Doesn’t help you drill faster… just injures your hand and is hard on bits. Air drills all the way man.
Only down side is that they require a big air compressor. 5hp minimum for continuous use. But once you have a compressor up for the job, they make life super nice.