Air Dryers for Compressors

[bczygan]

I'm looking at this air dryer for my 5HP Speedaire compressor.

Used Ingersoll Rand SDR35 Air Dryer with:

Maximum inlet press: 250 psig (17 barg)
Minimum inlet press: 5 psig (0.3 barg)
Maximum inlet temp: 120 degrees F (49 degrees C)
Maximum amblent temp: 120 degrees F (49 degrees C)
Minimum amblent temp: 60 degrees F (15 degrees C)
AC current only: 115 Volt, 60 Hz
Unit RLA: 7.6 Amps
Refrigerant charge: 284 gr. R134a
Refrigerant design press: 400 psig (27.6 barg)
Small footprint

Will this be an appropriate size for my compressor?

What should I pay for a never hooked up but used one?

Will it cost a lot to have it charged with that refrigerant?

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Anyone?

 

[bczygan]

Hmmmmm.....?

How do you size one?

Bill

 

[alan camby]

Are you getting a deal on it or something? Do you paint? Why do you need a dryer? I have zero issues with moisture using a large aftercooler, catch can, and basic air filter.

 

[bczygan]

Are you getting a deal on it or something? Do you paint? Why do you need a dryer? I have zero issues with moisture using a large aftercooler, catch can, and basic air filter.

$100

Yes, will paint and use a blast cabinet.

Don't know how old it is or if it will need an expensive recharge.

Bill

 

[joe_padavano]

The pressure rating is irrelevant. What's the SCFM rating? I don't see it on the label. The last thing you want is a big flow restriction from the dryer. The dryer needs to have at least the SCFM rating of your compressor.

 

[Lelandwelds]

SCFM is 25 max inlet temp is 140. Good choice if you really need one.

$100? Definitely deserves a big "you ****".

 

[matt_i]

I would invest in regular cyclonic filter, coalescing filter, and then a dessicant filter element, in series, in this order.

Then you will have paint quality air, and zero moving parts that consume no energy, the only "consumable" is baking out the dessicant as a prep before painting, or you could replace it. The blast cabinet shouldn't need the dessicant pack, so you can tee off before that.

Keep life simple

Note: it also requires Ambient Minimum >= 60F so it will have to be placed and utilized inside your shop, which should also be heated for winter ops.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I would invest in regular cyclonic filter, coalescing filter, and then a dessicant filter element, in series, in this order.

Then you will have paint quality air, and zero moving parts that consume no energy, the only "consumable" is baking out the dessicant as a prep before painting, or you could replace it. The blast cabinet shouldn't need the dessicant pack, so you can tee off before that.

Keep life simple

Yuck. Much better to nail the bargain refrig. Much simpler if it works. Uses 3.6 amps 120Volt. That's dorm frig range. Who cares how much power a dorm frig uses? If you add up the phantom loads from tv, washer, and all the other appliances it totals a lot more power. Who unplugs everything electronic in their house daily?

 

[stonesfan68]

The discharge air temperature from a reciprocating air compressor is about 300F. The dryer is rated for a maximum inlet temperature of 120F, so you’ll need to install an aftercooler on the compressor to lower the inlet air temperature into the dryer. You will also need to invest in a coalescing filter to put in front of the dryer. The filter will knock out the bulk water and oil from the air stream.

 

[joe_padavano]

$100? Definitely deserves a big "you ****".

X2!

 

[pcmeiners]

The discharge air temperature from a reciprocating air compressor is about 300F. The dryer is rated for a maximum inlet temperature of 120F, so you’ll need to install an aftercooler on the compressor to lower the inlet air temperature into the dryer. You will also need to invest in a coalescing filter to put in front of the dryer. The filter will knock out the bulk water and oil from the air stream.

A single stage will produce 300 °, 2 stage less. Agree, an after cooler is needed, if you do not get the compressor air at or below 120°, the drier will not function as specified.

Oh, a big you **** is warranted.

 

[dr_clyde]

You don't really need one of those. Unless you're painting large or blasting large volumes, it'll be a waste of energy and space.

$100 is a good price if it has the refrigerant in it. If the lines have been cut, it will probably need a few hundred in service to get it rolling.

 

[engineer2]

Good choice. A bit oversized, but so what. I agree an aftercooler is a good idea. This is not what they call a "high temp" dryer. Too high an inlet temp and you cut down on the CFM capacity, the unit will run all the time, and you may not get the 35-38° dew point you want.

If it is low on 134a any HVAC or auto AC place should be able to recharge it. If it is completely out of 134a, I'd be concerned about a leak. Since it will be hard to gauge the amount of 134a without a load on the unit, refrigerant should be added by weight. The unit should be leak checked to be sure it's OK. 284 grams is 10 ounces, just under one 12 oz can.

BTW, a you **** is deserved. I would snag it to replace my 52 year old IR air dryer.

 

[Lelandwelds]

The discharge air temperature from a reciprocating air compressor is about 300F. The dryer is rated for a maximum inlet temperature of 120F, so you’ll need to install an aftercooler on the compressor to lower the inlet air temperature into the dryer. You will also need to invest in a coalescing filter to put in front of the dryer. The filter will knock out the bulk water and oil from the air stream.

140°F is max inlet for this one. Do you really think that temp will ever hit this unit? Flushing, checking for leaks, evacuating and charging is no big deal. I am confident he can handle the filters.

 

[ovrrdrive]

For the life of me I can't understand why people consider desiccant for their main source of moisture removal. Set the system up correctly and maybe use a small one at the end of the hose when you need perfect air and not worry about it. I've got a 24' copper manifold after my tank before my dryer and hardly any moisture at all even gets to it.

 

[Bretny]

For the life of me I can't understand why people consider desiccant for their main source of moisture removal. Set the system up correctly and maybe use a small one at the end of the hose when you need perfect air and not worry about it. I've got a 24' copper manifold after my tank before my dryer and hardly any moisture at all even gets to it.

Im not sure why people are so set on desciccant either. I have a maze of a copper cooler between my compressor and tank. Most of the water is removed before it gets to the tank. I get about a shot glass of clean/clear water out of the tank every 3 months. I paint and blast with no further drying.

 

[stonesfan68]

140°F is max inlet for this one. Do you really think that temp will ever hit this unit? Flushing, checking for leaks, evacuating and charging is no big deal. I am confident he can handle the filters.

The picture of the data plate indicates the maximum inlet temperature is 120F. Yes, that compressor will discharge air in excess of 120F.

 

[bczygan]

Well, I got a better price on it.............


...........FREE!!!...........

Bill

 

[bsaint]

And who cares about inlet temp its 35CFM which is PERFECT

 

[bczygan]

I'll deal with inlet temp with an after cooler.

And turns out I have a coalescing filter with a new element. Checking to see if replacement elements are available.

Yes, painting and blasting and plasma cutter all could use this.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Correction, I have a regular particulate filter, not a coalescing one. It's actually marked with the wrong tag.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Yay!!!

IT'S HOME!!!

2 hour trip in bad traffic and roads filled with potholes.

Now Julie has to take it to work in the van, while I make room in the garage.

Bill

 

[engineer2]

Congratulations! Keep us up-to-date on reviving it.

 

[bczygan]

Congratulations! Keep us up-to-date on reviving it.

Got ahold of an IR salesman yesterday, and she's sending me info on it. Had to call 5 different numbers cause no one at the MI office answered their phone. Pretty old unit. Not digital.

Guy I got it from was interesting. Shutting down a shop where he did machining and casting and blacksmithing and iron work. Very artistic stuff. Did a 12K life size elephant he out of steel for a ladies yard.


Bill

 

[jblnut]

We have numerous different model IR Refrig dryers out on robotic milking farms and they preform wonderfully. Once in a while a compressor will go out but it's usually because something else has failed and everything gets contaminated. We run mainly Kaiser Sigma Compressors with a few older Cast Aire piston pumps and the air coming out of these IR units is always in the 35-40° dew point range even when they get pushed a bit.

We have a few older farms whose dryers **** out and they've installed either a desiccant or a home-brew setup to save money. 6-12 months down the road every one of them has issues with moisture buildup in the robots. Our setups have the compressors dumping into large storage tanks (either triple 120's or double 80's depending on the size of the farm) and they all have auto drains on them. This removes most of the moisture and gets the air nice and cool before it goes into the dryer. It is incredibly important for the air to be cool and "dry" before it hits the dryer so it can do it's job. They're not a big fan of oil either if you have a pump that puts a lot of oil in the air ....

This sir is a damn nice find !!! I can assure you those units cost quite a bit more than what you paid

 

[bczygan]

We have numerous different model IR Refrig dryers out on robotic milking farms and they preform wonderfully. Once in a while a compressor will go out but it's usually because something else has failed and everything gets contaminated. We run mainly Kaiser Sigma Compressors with a few older Cast Aire piston pumps and the air coming out of these IR units is always in the 35-40° dew point range even when they get pushed a bit.

We have a few older farms whose dryers **** out and they've installed either a desiccant or a home-brew setup to save money. 6-12 months down the road every one of them has issues with moisture buildup in the robots. Our setups have the compressors dumping into large storage tanks (either triple 120's or double 80's depending on the size of the farm) and they all have auto drains on them. This removes most of the moisture and gets the air nice and cool before it goes into the dryer. It is incredibly important for the air to be cool and "dry" before it hits the dryer so it can do it's job. They're not a big fan of oil either if you have a pump that puts a lot of oil in the air ....

This sir is a damn nice find !!! I can assure you those units cost quite a bit more than what you paid

Yes, I got a quote on another used one, of $1,065, before shipping.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Now:

Aftercooler

Coalescing filter

 

[bczygan]

This is the filter setup I have.

It's FRL (Filter, Regulator., Lubricator)

Except it's silver without the gauge. Watts Maxi series.

Bill

 

[engineer2]

Skip the lubricator for the entire system. It is for mounting at the end a dedicated air tool line.

 

[36Phaeton]

I have never noticed the 80 gallon tank on my 2 stage compressor ever being more than warm to the touch, even after heavy use. The discharge from the 2nd stage pump into the tank may very well be exceedingly hot, and beware ever touching that small pipe.
I would expect that the discharge air from the 80 gallon tank has never exceeded 100 to 120 degrees, so a direct connection to an air dryer should be no problem.

 

[bczygan]

I have never noticed the 80 gallon tank on my 2 stage compressor ever being more than warm to the touch, even after heavy use. The discharge from the 2nd stage pump into the tank may very well be exceedingly hot, and beware ever touching that small pipe.
I would expect that the discharge air from the 80 gallon tank has never exceeded 100 to 120 degrees, so a direct connection to an air dryer should be no problem.

I see where an aftercooler and a water extractor can keep water out of the tank, and the dryer needs water to be gone as well.

So cool with aftercooler, extract water, tank, 2nd tank if available, particulates with a filter, coalescing filter, dryer and then regulator?

Bill