Air fitting for quick connects on 1/2" copper

[vdotmatrix]

Hey guys!

I want to run some copper to supply a retractable hose reel I want to mount on the ceiling. I thought about running 3/4" copper but the run is only about 10 feet so I've elected to use 1/2".

Starting at the ceiling:

so to start I bought a 1/2" copper threaded female fitting . to this I added a galvanized bushing(?) 1/2" to 1/4" and finally I will find a 1/4" threaded ****** and then add the female quick connect....

besides sweating the copper to the end, the rest of the threaded pieces will be joined with pipe dope...... then I'll add a short feeder hose.....( I mentioned I had a female quick connect but should I just screw these in instead of using quick connects up there?

at the bottom near the compressor I will have a section with a TEE that ends with a ball valve for draining....the tee brand will go towards the compressor with a filter and another regulator ending for sure with a quick connect.

same almost as the other end...sound right? I have looked all over for examples of what or how people did this and came up empty

 

[matt_i]

I would hard-pipe or whip-hose the input to the hose reel. You lose a lot of flow thru the Q.C. fittings.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Use reducing tees/elbows and 1/4" threaded copper fittings.

If the fitting are already installed, I am sure you can find 1/2"-1/4" BRASS reducers.

 

[TNToy]

I would hard-pipe or whip-hose the input to the hose reel. You lose a lot of flow thru the Q.C. fittings.

I agree with this. Plus the quick connects ALWAYS leak a little bit, eventually. Since you won't be hanging and dropping the hose reel a dozen times a month, might as well thread it in.

I upgraded my quick connects on my home tools to the "V" style couplings (Northern tool carries fairly good ones) from the typical M/Industrial we use in every shop I've ever worked at. They're still 1/4" NPT thread, but the ID of the couplers is much larger. It made a noticeable improvement with the higher-consumption tools.

I'd avoid a coupler up there, and if your system was anymore elaborate I would suggest a shutoff valve as well. But since the entire thing is so short and doesn't have multiple drops I wouldn't bother. Shutoff at each component are primarily to allow you to use the rest of the system if one reel fails in a multiple-person workshop. In your case, you'd just screw and air hose into the tank directly if the reel broke.

 

[Richard Cranium]

the more fittings you put on it the greater chance you will have leaks.

 

[goodysgotacuda]

x10 on avoiding the quick connect. My local Lowe's has some 1/2" copper to male/female 1/2" or 3/8" NPT fittings. Certainly you can get the reel to thread into that.

 

[vdotmatrix]

i would hard-pipe or whip-hose the input to the hose reel. You lose a lot of flow thru the q.c. Fittings.

yes..check!!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

Use reducing tees/elbows and 1/4" threaded copper fittings.

If the fitting are already installed, I am sure you can find 1/2"-1/4" BRASS reducers.

Okay so I was having a time matching the brass to the copper threaded female...seemed like only the galvanized or the black pipe fit the copper threading...

 

[vdotmatrix]

Yes I agree below!

I agree with this. Plus the quick connects ALWAYS leak a little bit, eventually. Since you won't be hanging and dropping the hose reel a dozen times a month, might as well thread it in.YES goord point!

I upgraded my quick connects on my home tools to the "V" style couplings (Northern tool carries fairly good ones) from the typical M/Industrial we use in every shop I've ever worked at. They're still 1/4" NPT thread, but the ID of the couplers is much larger. It made a noticeable improvement with the higher-consumption tools. I found a similar discussion about these on this forum-thank you!

I'd avoid a coupler up there, and if your system was anymore elaborate I would suggest a shutoff valve as well. But since the entire thing is so short and doesn't have multiple drops I wouldn't bother. Shutoff at each component are primarily to allow you to use the rest of the system if one reel fails in a multiple-person workshop. In your case, you'd just screw and air hose into the tank directly if the reel broke.

That is exactlly what I am going to do..I have a filter-regulator-oiler and I was going to write the company ARGO and see if I could clean out the oil and just use it as a filter/regulator-thanks

 

[sberry]

Agree, the connector isn't needed.

 

[vdotmatrix]

I guess I have had the time figuring out the transition from copper to hose or fitting or whatever.....but this is the general idea right....copper NPT to galvanized NPT .....

hope depot is such a mess around here and they didn't have what I was looking for in brass npt.....

 

[493mike]

You can do this all with copper if you shop in a real plumbing supply house. May need to be a commercial contractor to get in the door though. Perhaps you know a plumber?
Mike

 

[sberry]

You are using a QC for a hose, one for a manifold had a male and,,,, Home Depot or Menards had a selection of brass reducing bushings. As was mentioned screw hose to bush and put that connector on the working end where it belongs.
You actually have all you need.

 

[chase237]

Here is what I did. The larger QC is for the sand blaster. Probably not necessary but I did it anyway. Anyway, the correct fittings do exist. I'm also in the camp of a whip to the reel, no QC.

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[stonesfan68]

You're going to get galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized pipe.

I'd just invest in a snubber hose to connect between the header pipe and hose reel. You'll save money and connections (leak points). Here's an example:

Grainger item # 3JT54

 

[WhiffySpark]

if you use a whip hose to wheel make sure you put a shut off valve inline of it. If you plan to keep in pressurized

 

[yaidunno]

I guess I have had the time figuring out the transition from copper to hose or fitting or whatever.....but this is the general idea right....copper NPT to galvanized NPT .....

hope depot is such a mess around here and they didn't have what I was looking for in brass npt.....

Way to many un needed fittings in this setup. Follow what chase237 did (great looking plumbing BTW) and you should be all set. A simple pipe to NPT adapter, and then screw in your male coupling

McMaster will have all the fittings you need, and then some if you cant source them locally.

FWIW, i'd avoid using those horrid galvanized bushings at all costs in any future setup. Material and thread quality is about that of the cave man era.

 

[djjsr]

You're going to get galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized pipe.

I've never seen galvanic corrosion on an air line. I've seen lots of it on a water line.

 

[djjsr]

I use this setup on all drops. Adapter and mount, it's called a drop ear elbow. Once in a while I plug in a ball valve to drain moisture but I rarely get any.

View media item 55434

 

[vdotmatrix]

You can do this all with copper if you shop in a real plumbing supply house. May need to be a commercial contractor to get in the door though. Perhaps you know a plumber?
Mike

yeah man, I went to a REAL plumming supply place and got a 1/2" copper sweat fitting to 1/4" male......no way they'd ever have this at the BORG. great suggestion.

 

[vdotmatrix]

You are using a QC for a hose, one for a manifold had a male and,,,, Home Depot or Menards had a selection of brass reducing bushings. As was mentioned screw hose to bush and put that connector on the working end where it belongs.
You actually have all you need.

yes thank you

 

[vdotmatrix]

Here is what I did. The larger QC is for the sand blaster. Probably not necessary but I did it anyway. Anyway, the correct fittings do exist. I'm also in the camp of a whip to the reel, no QC.

[/URL][/IMG]

the fun part is actually sweating copper....there is an art to it! I think it is fun! Well done.

At Lowes I found a 1/2"-1/4" female. In the tool department they had a 1/4" npt ****** made for this, but what I will do is get that short hose from graingers ( cha-ching ) and directly connect hose reel sans QC......thanks

 

[vdotmatrix]

You're going to get galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized pipe.

I'd just invest in a snubber hose to connect between the header pipe and hose reel. You'll save money and connections (leak points). Here's an example:

Grainger item # 3JT54

BINGO!!! they dont have these hoses at the BORG...so I will go to Graingers ( fortunately we have one here ) and get a couple of these....BIG THANKS

 

[vdotmatrix]

if you use a whip hose to wheel make sure you put a shut off valve inline of it. If you plan to keep in pressurized

If I were to run lines and have air stations aroud the shop I would do this and keep the system pressurized. I am always concerned about a constantly pressurized system and either water in the tank or somewhere in the lines....I always drain everything...everytime....beisdes, if that compressor went off as it does when i leave it on, inthe middle of the night, my wife would have another cow.

But, I will pressurize whatever line I will be using, either the hose reel for remote air or a short tap off the compressor for sustained work like the grinder or cutting tool when when I am welding stuff and need a lot of air.....

thanks!!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

Way to many un needed fittings in this setup. Follow what chase237 did (great looking plumbing BTW) and you should be all set. A simple pipe to NPT adapter, and then screw in your male coupling

McMaster will have all the fittings you need, and then some if you cant source them locally.

FWIW, i'd avoid using those horrid galvanized bushings at all costs in any future setup. Material and thread quality is about that of the cave man era.

HAHAHA YES, I hear you...I returned these to the BORG this morning ..... yes NPT coppper adapter 1/2"-1/4"female and I also got a male....

thank you much!!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

I use this setup on all drops. Adapter and mount, it's called a drop ear elbow. Once in a while I plug in a ball valve to drain moisture but I rarely get any.

View media item 55434

yeah man this is sweet...those ball valves are not cheap~ $9. The ones at lowes in the tool department for air are 1/4" NPT !!!

thank you

 

[vdotmatrix]

It turns out that the hose real comes with a "snubber" hose but I foresee another issue. I think I will need to put in some kind of swivel, to hard line this hose to the copper unless I attach it to the reel and then attach it to the copper fitting and sweat the thing in place, risking a crispy snubber line? OR I could just put in a lousy quick connect which I wanted to avoid. Ideas?

 

[sberry]

You can remove the hose from reel swivel and hook backn on

 

[TNToy]

Personally, I'd screw it into both (with the hose reel on top of the ladder) and then twist the reel backwards until I unwound the hose... and mount it into the ceiling.

In the unlikely event you have to unhook that line some day, just count the turns as you unscrew it. Then reverse-twist it that number of times before screwing it back into the reel... or unbolt the reel really quick to unwind it again.

IMO it's worth it to have a totally leak free system.

My 60 gallon runs once roughly every 4.5 days since it is always left in AUTO and never is fully drained. I like always having air on hand in a tank that's had time to cool off. That means either aggressively chasing down leaks (don't use your ear - use a spray bottle of soapy water to find even the smallest ones!) or else listening to your compressor light up every few hours - including at 3:23 a.m. each night.

EDIT: best thing I did was install a high-end 3/4" ball valve at the tank exit. If I depressurize the rest of the system, I see the exact same tank pressure after three days. So far I get to have air ready to go... and might have the compressor run once every few weeks. So far I'm happy!

 

[Clik]

I use hose reel swivels that I get from Water Cannon. They are rated at 3000 PSI so 150 PSI of air ain't nothin'.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Personally, I'd screw it into both (with the hose reel on top of the ladder) and then twist the reel backwards until I unwound the hose... and mount it into the ceiling.

In the unlikely event you have to unhook that line some day, just count the turns as you unscrew it. Then reverse-twist it that number of times before screwing it back into the reel... or unbolt the reel really quick to unwind it again.

IMO it's worth it to have a totally leak free system.

My 60 gallon runs once roughly every 4.5 days since it is always left in AUTO and never is fully drained. I like always having air on hand in a tank that's had time to cool off. That means either aggressively chasing down leaks (don't use your ear - use a spray bottle of soapy water to find even the smallest ones!) or else listening to your compressor light up every few hours - including at 3:23 a.m. each night.

EDIT: best thing I did was install a high-end 3/4" ball valve at the tank exit. If I depressurize the rest of the system, I see the exact same tank pressure after three days. So far I get to have air ready to go... and might have the compressor run once every few weeks. So far I'm happy!

That would be really nice to have air on demand like that for sure....So I could do that and put the reel on the ladder, tighten it at both ends with pipe dope and then be golden; hopefully the QC at the end of the hose will be bomb-proof.
BTW, the hose reel I got from LOWES is a hybrid on sale for $49-I jumped on it.

 

[bandaidmd]

I used a quick connect on my hose whip , with a new ****** and a new QC it not likely to leak for years, mine hasnt! Where QC's leak is usually on the ends we use because the end of the ****** gets dinged up then it wears the rubber washer and starts a leak.
Those wanting hose to attach there reels , you can buy a 1/2 x 25 pre made air hose and chop it to length cheaper than a short whip hose.

 

[TAMPAGT07]

As was mentioned screw hose to bush and put that connector on the working end where it belongs. /

I learned this from the Dr. Ruth show, many years ago....

 

[sberry]

I have a reel I used a QD hooking up, doesn't leak and it didn't hurt it. But it isn't a user feature.
I just moved a reel to this location under the paint reel. I only use it occasionally and it will save 60 ft of pipe in a remodel. The extra coupler in the pic is left over for adding extra paint hose but to install this reel removed plug and hooked connector on. It was some automotive type, doesn't hurt much and this line is for sanding or occasional tire air.
The red open reel is for paint, has a little filter reg just for it.

 

[vdotmatrix]

OKAY THANKS...I think I have the hose reel end squared away, and now I would like to look at the other end next to the compressor for this simple line....as you can see NO MORE LUB!

My question is how can I attach the F/R to the copper branch? Right now I am going to thread it to a 1/4" NPT copper fitting. but to do this I have to pull the copper away from the wall. If I had to do this in the future I would have to undo concrete anchors that attach the line to the wall and I cannot find an inline swivel connector ****** that is 1/4"npt on both ends or a section of hose that short.....but I want to make solid air tight rigid connections.

almost done!!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

I have a reel I used a QD hooking up, doesn't leak and it didn't hurt it. But it isn't a user feature.
I just moved a reel to this location under the paint reel. I only use it occasionally and it will save 60 ft of pipe in a remodel. The extra coupler in the pic is left over for adding extra paint hose but to install this reel removed plug and hooked connector on. It was some automotive type, doesn't hurt much and this line is for sanding or occasional tire air.
The red open reel is for paint, has a little filter reg just for it.

yeah man that is nice!

 

[vdotmatrix]

I finished the project and it has held pressure throughout with out loss of any air...I used copper fittings from a real plumbing store and connect differnt sections with SHARKBITE fittings. I have pictures but I cant find them in drop box right now. I put a 1/2" couple in the ceiling where the hose screws into the copper fitting and the couple can spin on axis which is real cool.

I put another 1/2" coupler above the air fitting in the picture because when i presureized the system yesterday or day before, one of the sweat joints leaked so instead of dismantling the entire system I just cut out the section in the picture-attached with couplers....EASY-PEEZY!

So far I couldn't be happier...never had this "AIR ON DEMAND" convenience....after filling the tank I'll bleed a little air from the bottom, purge the air/water filter and then open the 1/4" ball valve-never any water...

Happy Holiday