Air hammer recommendations??

[Daddy Fish]

Looking to buy a good air hammer. Considering the Ingersoll Rand 119. Im open to any suggestions though. Id like a good one but I don't want to spend beyond what is necessary.

 

[Machinitect]

That IR119 would be a very nice air hammer choice. Depending on how you use air hammers, you may want to buy a rivet hammer instead for more control. I hardly ever use my air hammer any more since buying rivet hammers for solid rivet projects.

 

[bsaint]

Dont listen to anyone saying the Astro 498. Although its an awesome air hammer, the amount of bit variety for it pales in compared to 401 air hammers.

I dont know what one I have but its been a trooper. Its was the best Napa one at the time at 180 dollars in 2008. I dont think they make it anymore. It was gray. I think it was a re-labeled IR.

I think its the IR119 MAX. A little different than what you linked.

 

[Daddy Fish]

That IR119 would be a very nice air hammer choice. Depending on how you use air hammers, you may want to buy a rivet hammer instead for more control. I hardly ever use my air hammer any more since buying rivet hammers for solid rivet projects.

Cool. Thats why Im asking. I don't know what the difference is.

 

[Machinitect]

DF, I use a cheap air hammer for brute force against whatever I’m trying to break apart or cut. I grab a rivet hammer for the variable hammer rate and better control. The trigger on the rivet hammer (rivet gun) is variable speed. Rivet hammers can get pretty expensive. I have a newer Sioux hammer, and a few surplus ebay Cleco hammers. I think they are 2x or 3x size. They accept your regular .401 tools.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

CP714 is my normal use 401 shank. Good for most stuff, but it's not driving out press-in ball joints, or cutting 3/8 rivet heads off quickly. It's all about unscrewing rotted hardware for exhausts with ultimate trigger control and what not. It'll do most u-joints, knocking out frozen bolts from bushings, punching out exhaust studs after you heat up the flanges a bit, rattling tie-rod jam nuts free of rust, etc. I have a 498 shank Astro Pneumatic big-nasty for ball joints, wheel bearing hubs, although frankly I run into situations where I'd like even more punch than that. I made a thread on here asking about even bigger options, and finally admitted I'm basically looking for a death-ray.

What are you doing with it? What do you work on?

 

[Daddy Fish]

CP714 is my normal use 401 shank. Good for most stuff, but it's not driving out press-in ball joints, or cutting 3/8 rivet heads off quickly. It's all about unscrewing rotted hardware for exhausts with ultimate trigger control and what not. It'll do most u-joints, knocking out frozen bolts from bushings, punching out exhaust studs after you heat up the flanges a bit, rattling tie-rod jam nuts free of rust, etc. I have a 498 shank Astro Pneumatic big-nasty for ball joints, wheel bearing hubs, although frankly I run into situations where I'd like even more punch than that. I made a thread on here asking about even bigger options, and finally admitted I'm basically looking for a death-ray.

What are you doing with it? What do you work on?

Thanks for the great reply! Sounds like the death ray would suit me. But honestly I have a job coming up installing tubular control arms in my old chevy truck. I need to cut some rivots. After that I really don't know what Ill use it for. I guess Id like to go as big as possible with still the ability to cut sheet metal on occasion.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

IMO you're almost in the market for two air hammers. For removing the ball joint rivets on the lower control arm on older GM trucks, I like to cut an X in the top of the rivet (just remove the CV axle, or set it on top of the sway bar link). Then, knock the pie-pieces off the top, and you're ready to do battle punching them downwards. Those things can be a massive PITA, even with a 498 hammer if you're unlucky. A normal 401 shank can get the job done with this method on something like the rear leaf spring shackle mounting brackets, since there is less material for the rivet to be stuck in. To do sheet metal work, and thrash ball joint rivets, you really want two different things.

If you're just talking about dealing with stuck bolts and whatnot, a 401 should do fine. Trigger control is key for cutting metal, some of the cheaper guns in either 401 or 498 are on/off switches. One can regulate the air going into the hammer with a regulator to slow down the aggressiveness. My 714 has a built in regulator knob for this.

 

[kapster]

I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP7150, I like it but with the new CP7165 out id try it instead. The trigger looks like a "tip" trigger that you "should" be able to feather, the cp7150 is not and is on or off. I just adjust air pressure if need be. I've not used others to compare but its a brute.

For what it's worth, I've seen some favorable reviews of the Harbor freight Chief air hammer.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

 

[Daddy Fish]

I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP7150, I like it but with the new CP7165 out id try it instead. The trigger looks like a "tip" trigger that you "should" be able to feather, the cp7150 is not and is on or off. I just adjust air pressure if need be. I've not used others to compare but its a brute.

For what it's worth, I've seen some favorable reviews of the Harbor freight Chief air hammer.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

I see the Chief has a variable speed trigger. Interesting .... if it works well. The CP 7165 has adjustable levels. Thats cool I guess if it translates into a useable feature. Ill look into each. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Daddy Fish]

IMO you're almost in the market for two air hammers. For removing the ball joint rivets on the lower control arm on older GM trucks, I like to cut an X in the top of the rivet (just remove the CV axle, or set it on top of the sway bar link). Then, knock the pie-pieces off the top, and you're ready to do battle punching them downwards. Those things can be a massive PITA, even with a 498 hammer if you're unlucky. A normal 401 shank can get the job done with this method on something like the rear leaf spring shackle mounting brackets, since there is less material for the rivet to be stuck in. To do sheet metal work, and thrash ball joint rivets, you really want two different things.

If you're just talking about dealing with stuck bolts and whatnot, a 401 should do fine. Trigger control is key for cutting metal, some of the cheaper guns in either 401 or 498 are on/off switches. One can regulate the air going into the hammer with a regulator to slow down the aggressiveness. My 714 has a built in regulator knob for this.

I think you make a good point. Sounds like I could use a good 401 tool and then switch gears and look for a big gun.

 

[Jlarson]

I've always been happy with the 118max, covers pretty much everything I need it to do in the industrial and heavy equipment area. I've got a 119max but haven't broke it out yet, hope it to be equal or better then its 118 sibling.

We also run a ton of the smaller IR edge series hammers too for stuff, including driving needle gun attachments for weld prep/cleaning and we've been real happy with them.

 

[setfocus]

I've got a snap-on ph3050b. Probably one of the best .401 air hammers, or use to be, but real high price. Got mine through the snap-on student program

.498 air hammers hit really hard but are difficult to control, easy to destroy ****. Not good for more finesse type work. Astro makes one, Chicago pneumatic makes one that, I've heard, has better trigger control than the astro. Air cat also makes one. I've only used the CP version

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[Kenskip1]

I recently purchased the Chief air hammer from Harbor Freight. It is identical to the one from Mactco and a third of the cost. It out performers the best from Snap On. All this for $139.99. When you pull the trigger you had better have a hold of it. Variable speed trigger. It removed ball joints easily.

 

[charbar]

Ive had an IR 118Max for awhile now and haven't had any issue with it. Was pretty affordable too if I remember. Yes there are things it won't do, but I don't care what size of air hammer you have, you'll always find something it cant do.

A friend has the Snap On........ I think it does hit a touch harder than my IR. Also cost three times as much though.

Probably cant go wrong with any of the suggested here, I am pretty partial to IR when it comes to air tools though.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I recently purchased the Chief air hammer from Harbor Freight. It is identical to the one from Mactco and a third of the cost. It out performers the best from Snap On. All this for $139.99. When you pull the trigger you had better have a hold of it. Variable speed trigger. It removed ball joints easily.

On what though?

I can use a 401 hammer to pry out a subaru ball joint with a dull chisel bit, or something like a civic.

That's a whole different ball game than a press-in 1500 chevy truck lower.

 

[plinker]

I've got a CP7150, S-O 3050 and bought a Matco MT2916 probably going on a year ago thinking about it, I like the Matco best for the .401's, it's somewhat recoil-less if that makes sense, it is slightly bulkier then the 3050. The 7150 is the most compact.

Unless I need a .401 for something in particular or a specialty bit, I use my CP717 .498 90% of the time anymore. Fairly easy to control (you need two hands on any air hammer I find), easy to feather for "softer" hits. The .498 is a game changer of sorts, but you do need a decent .401 air hammer as not all bits are available in .498 or for when power isnt necessary.

 

[Ign]

Well supposedly Tesla invented the death ray but the blueprints were plundered or hidden by the gubermint, depending upon who you believe.

Since I learned we're not getting Astro's BJP1 competitor I've just been depressed and I think asking for a real death ray would just set me up for more heartache

I'm crawling back in my hole to cry