Air hammer screw removers

[marcusicp]

A co-worker has one of these and it works great! He doesn't remember where he bought it or what brand it is so I am trying to find it. I am looking for something like this : Shake-N-Break The one he has does look a little different that the one they offer on that site but it is basically the same thing.

Anyone know of other options? This was all I could find with the help of Google.

 

[mrholeshot]

Hmmm........Never used or even seen one. My only problem with that concept is my Snap-On long stoke air hammer would drive the door hinge through the door. I can see the good and bad in this tool. I use my hand model and it has served me well

 

[bmxr4life87]

ive heard of them being called a screw knocker before the ones i always used had a square drive for a socket or bit socket the tool trucks can get them

 

[MattT]

Snap-on YA2800.

 

[toolchaser]

Common aircraft tool. ATS, Aircraft Spruce.. they work best with a rivet gun with a teasing trigger

 

[Charles (in GA)]

"Screw Knockers" as they are know in the aircraft industry. Cannot be used on light aircraft (for obvious reasons) but work great on screws in heavier structure encountered in the airline industry.

They make short ones and long one. Cheapest I've found on a combination of both is the Yard Store.

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4724.html

Long one is slightly easier to use, short one is needed for tight spaces.

Also Aircraft Tool Supply, US Industrial Tool, Brown Tool

Charles

 

[marcusicp]

bmxr4life87: I would love to have one with a 3/8" square drive on it so I could use sockets on it as well.

MattT: I can't find the Snap-On one on the website.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

bmxr4life87: I would love to have one with a 3/8" square drive on it so I could use sockets on it as well.

MattT: I can't find the Snap-On one on the website.

The ones I have shown are 3/8 drive (never seen one that wasn't) but they really won't do much for a hex head bolt. They depend on being able to drive right into the center of the screw shank to jar loose the screw head. Its mostly surface friction under the head is why they are tight. Put a socket over a bolt head and you will find you are pounding, not on the bolt, but rather on the surface the bolt is screwed into.

Charles

 

[wreckercologist]

Snap-on YA2800.

This is the one I have. It works well. My only word of wisdom with it is have a light trigger finger(or a light duty air hammer). My PH3050 has shattered several bits.

This month Mac tools has air hammer socket adaptors on sale. They are similar to what Charles (in GA) posted except the have a 3/4" hex you put a wrench on rather than a built in handle. They are $24.99 each. AH5538 (3/8") & AH5512 (1/2").

 

[ricleh]

Check the guys who specialize in military and aircraft industry surplus on ebay. I picked 4 of the screw knockers for practically nothing in purchases of other items. The screw knockers were included with other items I wanted to buy. The ones I got were made by ATI, a subsidiary of Snapon. They were all 3/8" square drive with Apex #2 Phillips adapters.

 

[MattT]

MattT: I can't find the Snap-On one on the website.

Might be discontinued. My catalog is about 10 years old.

This is the one I have. It works well. My only word of wisdom with it is have a light trigger finger(or a light duty air hammer). My PH3050 has shattered several bits.

In my catalog it states "Requires no more than 30psi working pressure"

 

[wreckercologist]

In my catalog it states "Requires no more than 30psi working pressure"

Can't read. I just look at the pictures.


Yes, I am dictating this to my Italian secretary, Alotta Fagina.

 

[gregrobbins]

A co-worker has one of these and it works great! He doesn't remember where he bought it or what brand it is so I am trying to find it. I am looking for something like this : Shake-N-Break The one he has does look a little different that the one they offer on that site but it is basically the same thing.

Anyone know of other options? This was all I could find with the help of Google.

I carry the Shake-N-Break on my truck. I also have a 3/8 and 1/2 version designed to use with sockets. Clients say they all work well for subborn screws, nuts and bolts. Check with your local Mato truck, or if you don't have one, PM me.

 

[marcusicp]

The ones I have shown are 3/8 drive (never seen one that wasn't) but they really won't do much for a hex head bolt. They depend on being able to drive right into the center of the screw shank to jar loose the screw head. Its mostly surface friction under the head is why they are tight. Put a socket over a bolt head and you will find you are pounding, not on the bolt, but rather on the surface the bolt is screwed into.

Charles

I was thinking I would use the 3/8" drive for bit sockets not really hex head bolts.

 

[marcusicp]

I carry the Shake-N-Break on my truck. I also have a 3/8 and 1/2 version designed to use with sockets. Clients say they all work well for subborn screws, nuts and bolts. Check with your local Mato truck, or if you don't have one, PM me.

What brand are the 3/8" and 1/2" ones you carry?

 

[marcusicp]

I really like the way the ATS ones look. Here is a link to the 10" here and the 4" here.

Has anyone used these? It looks like the warranty is only for 1 year. Should this be a concern for me? Is there a better quality screw knocker out there?

 

[ourkid2000]

When the fellas at work use these they rattle my soul.......

I hate them with a passion but they work. Lately I've noticed that they've switched over to pneumatic impact guns which seem to work just as well on the structural screws. Less noisy too.

 

[nissan_crawler]

When the fellas at work use these they rattle my soul.......

I hate them with a passion but they work. Lately I've noticed that they've switched over to pneumatic impact guns which seem to work just as well on the structural screws. Less noisy too.

x2. I would rather drill and ez-out all day long than listen to these things. Guys at work are switching to the snap-on 1/4" mini impact and liking it.

 

[beelsr]

i got mine from eastwood. pretty much anybody's should be OK because all you're doing is hammering with it and you're going to wear out the bit long before the tool deforms too much...

i use them with the crappy enco air hammer so I don't over-torque whatever i'm working on...

 

[marcusicp]

I guess I will order the ones from ATS this weekend unless someone has some more input to guide me in a different direction.

 

[ricleh]

Check these out

screwknockers

 

[tonydanzah]

bump + ten

 

[johnny1290]

I made my own. I just welded that little bit holder to a air chisel and then welded a metal rod to the side and voila! I'm sure it's not as good as the store bought.

I'm using it to get screws out of door hinges(hell) and I bet it works on 50% of them.

It also shattters the bits and absolutely murdered the ears of my friends, but then I really laid on it hard.

The rest, well you can guess how I'm getting those out, but there's nothing 'E Z' about it!!!

 

[WVBrady]

I got one of these from Sky Geek and it is too big to fit into my air hammer. The shaft fits in, but the flared-out portion is too wide. Is there a difference in the .401 taper for rivet guns and impact hammers? The rivet guns are too expensive to get one just for this.

 

[WVBrady]

Bump Any info?

 

[WVBrady]

.401 Parker Taper shank

According to the ad in Sky Geek:

http://www.skygeek.com/aircraft-tool-supply-at540a-kit-screw-bolt-remover-kit-10-in.html

the tool that I bought uses a .401 Parker Taper shank. That is the same taper used in at least these Sunex air hammers:

http://www.sunextools.com/search.php?cat=air-tools&n=1&sunex1=air-hammer

So it appears that this tool should fit a standard hammer drill, but the flare on my tool is too wide to fit on my Central Pneumatics hammer drill, no matter whether I use the quick detach part or the original spring retainer. I have bought other chisels from different manufacturers that fit fine. I don't know if I grind the widest part down whether the grooved part will fit or not.

 

[WVBrady]

I just got the following reply from Sky Geek:

"Howdy Brady!

We have checked with the manufactures production manager and this tool will not work in an air chisel, even though it is a .401 shank they have a different taper than the rivets guns and this product was designed to work in a rivet gun with a retainer spring.

The Team at Sky Geek"

 

[Packard V8]

Just asking those who have used both, what is the advantage of a "screwknocker" as opposed to just a screw bit in an electric or air impact?

jack vines

 

[WVBrady]

Re: Air hammer screw removers-fixed

I was able to grind the tool that I bought down to the dimensions of the tools used in air hammers. The only problem now is that I don't have any stuck screws to try it out on. The ones that I needed it for have been taken care of by cutting a slot in them to use a conventional screw driver. Sooner or later, though...

 

[marcusicp]

Just asking those who have used both, what is the advantage of a "screwknocker" as opposed to just a screw bit in an electric or air impact?

jack vines

The rapid hammering seems to loosen rusted or otherwise "stuck" fasteners and won't strip them out as easily because the way the force is applied. Similar to the way a impact driver works but screw knockers have been able to free some brake rotor retaining screws that my impact driver couldn't.

 

[ourkid2000]

Just asking those who have used both, what is the advantage of a "screwknocker" as opposed to just a screw bit in an electric or air impact?

jack vines

Well, when you use the screw knockers you're really pounding straight down on the screw......breaking up corrosion all the while gently tugging on a wrench which is what will eventually break the screw free. The operator applies the counterclockwise force with the wrench while hammering, giving you nice control of the bit.

The screw bit in an impact has a much higher chance of camming out on the screw because of the rotation applied by the impact itself. The operator has no control over this.

 

[Packard V8]

Thanks for the clarification. If a specialized tool exists, there's usually something it does better.

The screw bit in an impact has a much higher chance of camming out on the screw because of the rotation applied by the impact itself. The operator has no control over this.

I've had some success with loosening hinge screws with an impact. It does require establishing a hard lean on the gun and careful trigger control. With the impact I've twisted off a few which wouldn't turn. Maybe the screwknocker might have loosened those.

jack vines

 

[reptilezs]

been finding the parker tapered ones at the aircraft sites. anyone know where to get the ones for a normal air chisel/hammer

 

[Ron89]

I've been meaning to pick one of these up actually...forgot until I saw this thread lol. An old school tech at our shop showed me how he uses it on the rotor screws on Hondas/Acuras. Works like a charm...even on the ugliest, rustiest, corroded rotor screws.

I usually use an impact driver (the hammer strike kind) with great success but it tends to shear the head off of the screw or snap the bit on the really stuck rotor screws, where the air hammer attachment seems to break the fastener free.

I do agree that it is obnoxious to listen to though. I only used it (or borrowed it) as a last resort.