Air Hammers - IR118MAX vs SO PH3050

[Handyandy23]

So I'm in the market for a decent air hammer (one I have is a cheap-o Mastercraft that isn't much more than a ********), and I think I've narrowed my choices down to the Ingersoll Rand IR118MAX, and the Snap On PH3050.

Only caveat is I would be buying the IR118MAX new, versus buying a used PH3050 off eBay, since I'm not interested in shelling out full pop (this is for DIY automotive use).

Has anyone out there used both of these that can compare? How would people think reliability would be on a new IR versus a used SO? I'm assuming new versus new the SO wins out, but used could be a different story.

Or any other thoughts? Not looking to spend more than $200ish, and although I know the Astro 4980 and CP717 are the "kings of the jungle", not really looking for something that impressive at this point.

 

[Handyandy23]

IR118MAX:
2,500 BPM
3/4" bore
3.5" stroke

PH3050:
2,500 BPM
3/4" bore
3.0" stroke

Statistically the two hammers are very similar, only difference is the IR has a half inch more stroke. Which if anything should mean it hits a little harder? Are there any other specs that are important to consider in comparing?

 

[PhantomEB]

I just biased as all my air tools are Ingersoll Rand. Never justified SnapOn in my DYI gearhead garage.

Amazon is my go to place for those tools.

 

[Itsjustdirt]

Same. IR is a great air tool brand. I cant speak for their air hammers, but I personally wouldn't think of buying anything but the IR one.


Dumb question time- What do you guys do with air hammers?! I mean, actually DO with them. I've heard of all kinds of things they CAN do, but I've never seen them used in real life, for some reason. I have a few that I have never touched. What am I missing out on?

 

[bigredcornhead]

Any one ever use an Air hammer to drive out a bushing? Curious to see any homebrew attachments anyone has made.

 

[Handyandy23]

Same. IR is a great air tool brand. I cant speak for air hammers, but I personally wouldn't think of buying anything but the IR one.


Dumb question time- What do you guys do with air hammers?! I mean, actually DO with them. I've heard of all kinds of things they CAN do, but I've never seen them used in real life, for some reason. I have a few that I have never touched. What am I missing out on?

I mainly want to use it on rusted/stuck auto parts, stuff like rotors and wheel hubs. Last 3 hub/bearings I've had to replace on my own cars I've had to remove the whole knuckle and take it somewhere to press it out.

I'm hoping adding a better air hammer to my arsenal will help. Combine it with penetrating fluid, heat, whatever else I can get my hands on.

 

[Threadkiller]

I have this long barrel from Sunex. Hits super hard. Seems to be a really stout unit. I wanted a snap on but I couldn't justify spending $450 for my home use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AU956U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Professional Tool User]

I'll probably be a bit biased towards the Snap on b/c the IR is is at least partially composite. I've had the housing on my old Snap on air hammer crack before and I don't know how well the composite parts hold up against all that vibration. They say the Snap on might be slightly more powerful, but I would just go with a new IR if I was a DIYer. You pay up front and you've got a warranty. As someone who uses it to make a living, if I could get a hold of a used PH3050 for cheap, I would buy one, take the gamble, and if it breaks, pay Snap on to flat rate rebuild it.

 

[Handyandy23]

I have this long barrel from Sunex. Hits super hard. Seems to be a really stout unit. I wanted a snap on but I couldn't justify spending $450 for my home use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AU956U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Very interesting option. Just going by BPM and stroke, this Sunex should hit harder than the other two options.

How long have you owned it / how much do you use it?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Same. IR is a great air tool brand. I cant speak for their air hammers, but I personally wouldn't think of buying anything but the IR one.


Dumb question time- What do you guys do with air hammers?! I mean, actually DO with them. I've heard of all kinds of things they CAN do, but I've never seen them used in real life, for some reason. I have a few that I have never touched. What am I missing out on?

I use my for work: Pound out stuck caliper slide pins, exhaust studs, beat on frozen hubs, pickle fork attachment for suspension parts you're replacing anyways, cutting/splitting exhaust tubes on the car, knocking rust off stuff, fan clutch removal tools, U joints, knocking on frozen axles in spindles, bushing removal (sometimes install), cutting rivets/metal, spinning off rotted axle nuts (torch helps), freeing bolts frozen in bushings, beating on drums, I could probably go on.

Everyone at work hates my air hammer(s). I wish they were silent, but they're not, and I've got work to do.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Any one ever use an Air hammer to drive out a bushing? Curious to see any homebrew attachments anyone has made.

Cutting the center of the bushing out helps, then knock the edges in and try to drive it out. I like to weld a bead all the way around the center, it shrinks the metal slightly and heat always helps.

 

[MattT]

Very interesting option. Just going by BPM and stroke, this Sunex should hit harder than the other two options.

How long have you owned it / how much do you use it?

That appears to be the same as a Cornwell I bought used a few years back. Not sure how it'd compare to the current Snap-on or IR but it definitely hits harder than my PH2050. Not using it daily but it's seen more use than a typical DIYer.

BTW don't get rid of your smaller air hammer. The long barrel ones are overkill for sheet metal.

 

[ttpete]

I use a 4X rivet gun. It uses the same tooling and hits a lot harder. It also has an extremely sensitive trigger that allows me to control the gun easily.

https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=ATS-4X&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

 

[plinker]

My Brother had a then new to market IR 118 long barrel and it didnt last, I dont remember what exactly was wrong with it, but IIRC it would have cost as much to fix as it would have to buy a new one. He went with Snap-on 3050's after that.

I bought a CP 7150 a few years ago and it's pretty good, the barrel tends to un-thread itself during use though. I also acquired a 3050 a couple years ago and used it a lot. I did buy a CP 717 a couple months ago and dont use the 3050 nearly as much now.

I use my for work: Pound out stuck caliper slide pins, exhaust studs, beat on frozen hubs, pickle fork attachment for suspension parts you're replacing anyways, cutting/splitting exhaust tubes on the car, knocking rust off stuff, fan clutch removal tools, U joints, knocking on frozen axles in spindles, bushing removal (sometimes install), cutting rivets/metal, spinning off rotted axle nuts (torch helps), freeing bolts frozen in bushings, beating on drums, I could probably go on.

Everyone at work hates my air hammer(s). I wish they were silent, but they're not, and I've got work to do.

+1, never used one for U-joints though.

I have used them to removed rounded nuts/bolts and frozen hydraulic fittings as well. You can take a dull squared off chisel and place the bit on the corner/side (think flank drive style) of the nut/whatever and proceed to "spin" the item off. Works well.

 

[Handyandy23]

I use a 4X rivet gun. It uses the same tooling and hits a lot harder. It also has an extremely sensitive trigger that allows me to control the gun easily.

https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=ATS-4X&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

Are any modifications needed to the rivet gun? Or just stick a hammer bit in it and go?

 

[Handyandy23]

That appears to be the same as a Cornwell I bought used a few years back. Not sure how it'd compare to the current Snap-on or IR but it definitely hits harder than my PH2050. Not using it daily but it's seen more use than a typical DIYer.

BTW don't get rid of your smaller air hammer. The long barrel ones are overkill for sheet metal.

One Amazon reviewer said it's the same as Cornwell, Mac, and Matco. Not sure if that's entirely accurate, or if it's same as current models or older ones. But still makes it seem like a solid unit for a DIYer.

 

[Skin]

Are any modifications needed to the rivet gun? Or just stick a hammer bit in it and go?

Same thing. Rivet guns tend to have better trigger control and generally only come with beehive springs.

 

[trever]

I bought the sunex after reading a lot of great reviews it lost 30 % of its power in a week.

 

[kapster]

I bought a CP 7150 a few years ago and it's pretty good, the barrel tends to un-thread itself during use though. I also acquired a 3050 a couple years ago and used it a lot. I did buy a CP 717 a couple months ago and dont use the 3050 nearly as much now.

How does the CP7150 compare to the snap on? I also have a CP7150, seems to have a lot of punch but trigger is on or off. I just turn the regulator down if I need control or use my HF for really light duty stuff.

 

[ItsNemo]

I have the IR 118...not overly impressed with it. Never really found it to hit much harder than even their cheaper edge version when it came to loosening stuck car parts. Air supply isn't a problem (1/2" from a 60 gallon 2 stage 5hp IR compressor).

 

[RedneckWelder]

I have a118Max. Very affordable yet powerful for what it is. My use is a bit different than an auto tech...I use an air hammer to spin out seized and stripped out drain plugs on heavy equipment and get stuck hydraulic fittings to move.

It’s loosened stuck threaded hydraulic cylinder glands that I couldn’t get to move with a chain wrench and cheater pipe. I didn’t think it’d work but I was surprised.

Remember at the end of the day it’s still a .401 air hammer but for a .401 it’s pretty damn good and it’s easy to control, which is something the cheapo ones lack but essential for my uses. I’m a big fan of IR’s more premium air tools, you can’t go wrong with them.

 

[ttpete]

Are any modifications needed to the rivet gun? Or just stick a hammer bit in it and go?

Nope. It's ready to go when you get it.

 

[619DioFan]

You should get the astro big nasty air hammer. it is eric o certified.

 

[Dieselhammer]

Same. IR is a great air tool brand. I cant speak for their air hammers, but I personally wouldn't think of buying anything but the IR one.


Dumb question time- What do you guys do with air hammers?! I mean, actually DO with them. I've heard of all kinds of things they CAN do, but I've never seen them used in real life, for some reason. I have a few that I have never touched. What am I missing out on?

I've owned and used both, prefer the ph3050 due to longevity, but i may be a special case in that i use it a ton. Uses? i have a bit i made that is a cheap air hammer bit welded to a 1-5/16" bushing driver that i use to drive out anchor pin sleeves on heavy truck axles, i have a like 20" long chisel bit that i use to remove fan clutches, i have a hammer head bit that i use to beat the side of spindles or knuckles to get ball joints or tie rod ends to drop out. I have another long chisel that i use to break the end of izuzu exhaust temp sensors off so that just the hex is left and i can use a socket because its an awful location to have to use a wrench or crowsfoot in. I have a sheet metal cutting bit for when i need to make non precision holes in things quickly. Hell, i could keep going, but to me, the question is: what do you not use an air hammer for?

 

[leadfoot415]

I have one of the original all metal PH3050 air hammers at work as a tech and it has held up to 15 years of getting the **** used out of it... I think i replaced the flutter disc once, but have never had any other problems. The collar that locks the barrel to the body doesnt stay tight and the quick disconnect threaded end is worn and requires tightening of the quick disconnect regularly... not a big deal.

I also have a 118max for home use and it works great for that purpose. I don't think it would hold up as well as the snap on, but who knows.

 

[leadfoot415]

Jokes...

 

[plinker]

How does the CP7150 compare to the snap on? I also have a CP7150, seems to have a lot of punch but trigger is on or off. I just turn the regulator down if I need control or use my HF for really light duty stuff.

The 7150 seems close in power to the Snap-on, but not quite as much punch. Still pretty good though. The 7150 does have a slimmer profile then the 3050 which is a plus. The trigger is better on the 3050.

A .498 air hammer will easily beat both, only downside being limited bit selection (mainly specialty bits like the brass tip hammer bits).

 

[2oolhound]

I had to strip 75 sq ft of ceramic tile off a plywood subfloor. It was a long slow job until I tried my 3050. Then it was over in 10 minutes or so.