Air Hammers?
- Thread starter burke1
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jfcasey
Well-known member
Snap ons hits hardest in the automotive world of .401 hammers. That said I have a ir long barrel, 212 I think? that's done everything I've needed. For the most part I've found if you are maxing out your air hammer on car parts you are doing something wrong.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
There is night and day difference in air hammers when it comes to cheap vs good. The best bang for the buck is a long barrel CP zip gun, I think it is a model 715. It was under a $100 when I bought mine, but that was 10 years ago. It is very close to my big Mac hammer in performance. Air hammers are one thing CP is very serious about and the zip gun is actually a lower model compared to some of the monsters they make. Big thing when shopping for one is blows per minute and stroke. A good one is around 2000 BPM, much more then 3 and it becomes a useless ********. Longer the stroke is always better unless you need to wedge it tight areas.
This is one tool where it truly is not worth being cheap. They are most certainly the 1 tool I don't think anyone can argue that snapon is the best. With that said the ir isn't too far behind for a good bit less. If you want the best get the snapon. If you want bang for your buck get the ir. But DO NOT get a cheap one.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
The Snappy does hit hard for most mechanic work....but doesn't hold a candle to my CP4447 or IR 132....but these are $$$.
And then go up to my CP717, which is .498 shank, and it will punch holes through steel plate....
I have bought all my hammers for less than 7 bux each at swap meet and estate sales.....that's my advice to you as well.
EDIT: the guns I listed are rivet guns, or zip guns, and have VS triggers...which is so much better than on/off...
sparky5982
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 89
Whatever you do, don't buy the IR 118Max. I went that route and all I got was a plastic hunk of sh*t! I was so disappointed in IR from the whole experience. I vowed to spread the message far and wide, hoping to tank their sales.
I have the snap-on one now. No comparison whatsoever.
I have the snap-on one now. No comparison whatsoever.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
I see a lot of guys buying the lower end IR stuff...JUNK. Get on ebay and buy a used rivet gun from IR or CP...they are NOT junk. can be had for 40-100 bux on most days...
Here's one on the bay....i just barely looked. That's like a $700 gun when new. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Pne...961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4181622471
Here's one on the bay....i just barely looked. That's like a $700 gun when new. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Pne...961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4181622471
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I have one and have had it for 2 years and use it alot and its still goin strong.
bcradio
Well-known member
I have the IR 122 max and it has been great... You don't need a super expensive gun but definitely don't go cheap
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Chicago pneumatic.
Why spend $300 to get a brand new middle of the road hammer when you can get top end used hammer for about $30 at the flea market. If you do not need it anytime soon, check out the flea market. I think I bought about 10 top of the line hammers (CP4444, IR132, Jiffy) for about $10 to $20 each. I would skip the truck brands. They are just high price rebranding of low to mid grade hammers (except for SO which is mid grade).
chris142
Well-known member
i bought a cornwell one .long barrel and its useless. replaced it with a mac that works great
For me, I guess it's a time issue. I prefer to buy new vs spending a bunch of time looking for a used tool of unknown condition. I would definitely buy used if I found a not-abused A.H. in good condition.
Nch209
Well-known member
Buy a used snappy. I bought a primo used ph3050b from the bay for under $250 and it works very well.
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
Got the same one; kicks like a mule. I like the quick change chuck on it.
ttpete
Well-known member
Get a 4X rivet gun. The big advantage is that they have a teasing trigger that makes it possible to regulate the speed down to single strokes if needed. I have a 2X and a 4X, and use them for everything.
Yeah, the negative of buying used at the flea market is time and risk of not working. So far I have been quite lucky. All of them work. Avoid those that have serious rust issue. Air hammer is a lot simpler than say an air drill. It does not has vanes and bearings and does not rotate. It has a solid rod that slide back and forth with air pressure applied. It is very simple and reliable.
Crusarius
Well-known member
I use a cheap craftsman one that I got in a kit that had 1/2" impact (not so good) 3/8 air ratchet (already replaced 1) and the air hammer. the air hammer is by far the best part of the kit and it works wonderfully.
my primary use is removing sealed hub bearings and axle shafts. I live in the rust belt of upstate NY. it has never let me down. I do agree with spending good money on good tools but for air hammers how much difference can there really be? its a pretty simple internal mechanism.
my primary use is removing sealed hub bearings and axle shafts. I live in the rust belt of upstate NY. it has never let me down. I do agree with spending good money on good tools but for air hammers how much difference can there really be? its a pretty simple internal mechanism.
Coach James
Well-known member
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Huge difference. Do you really think a $35 hammer is the same as a $1,500 hammer? Once you get a chance to use one.....you'll see the difference. Cheers.
woody 73
Well-known member
I sure would like to find those $30.00 dollar air tools
I find them for $50.00 and up (truck brands).Murphy4570
Well-known member
I have a Snap-On PH3050A myself. Best air hammer money can buy IMO. Hits like a mule. I have used to to hammer out press-in balljoints from control arms before in a pinch. Fucker hits hard!!!
I have a 2X Atlas Copco rivet hammer with a Snap-On quick chuck I bought NOS of feebay for around $75. It is about a $1000 unit new. There is no comparison between a run of the mill air hammer and a rivet hammer. The trigger control is sweet, and it has TONS of power when you need it. Mine accepts standard .401 shank chisels. I would put it up against a Snappy 3050 any day of the week.
Greyson
Greyson
ttpete
Well-known member
Riveters up to and including 4X use .401 shank tools.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
And you don't have to spend that much money.
Longer barrel, fewer "blows per minute" are usually better.
Let me add a piece of advice. When you are removing large rivets (like the ones used to hold some ball joints to the upper/lower A-arm or a spring perch) use a sharp chisel and shave a bit off of the head at a time. Much faster that trying to take the whole head off. Then a punch to push the rivet out.
If you have a good punch, you ca punch hole in a car/truck frame (after you center punch the location). Use a drill to finish the hole round.
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ttpete
Well-known member
Cutting big rivets is easier if you take a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and slot the rivet head down to the surface, then use the chisel. Less shank to shear off, and it's quicker.
Also the CP4475-6 retails for ~$2,500.
How about a model?
66354dream
Well-known member
I had the 118 MAX and it was good,,,,, for the 2 times it worked I got a warranty replacement on the 3rd one I sent back and got some credit for the snap on one off the truck, best thing Ive ever done.
I've had a PH2050 snap on for 10+ years. Still going strong. I guess the newer one is even better. You can score used 2050s on ebay for under $100 with a quick chuck. Thats what I did when I wanted one at home. A guy at work had a Matco, just over a year and broke. They wanted $250 to repair it, so he had me get him a used 2050 off the bay. He loves it and it working great.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Watch for CFM ratings.
some of the really cheap units, and some of the high dollar units are air hogs.
I try to buy the best I can find that my compressor will run.
A great hammer isn't **** if you don't have the air to back it up.
some of the really cheap units, and some of the high dollar units are air hogs.
I try to buy the best I can find that my compressor will run.
A great hammer isn't **** if you don't have the air to back it up.
azhatchback
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2013
- Messages
- 184
I have a craftsman hammer and the trigger started leaking air after a few uses. I don't use it often but when I need it still can still knock ball joints out. I beat out a dent on a thick shock tower with a planish bit. Funny thing was when I bought it at sears it came with instructions for a husky unit 
. The husky was cheaper 
. It works but I will replace it with with a better unit when the time comes. I have been eyeing the IR units with the chuck vs. the PIA stupid spring holder.
. The husky was cheaper . It works but I will replace it with with a better unit when the time comes. I have been eyeing the IR units with the chuck vs. the PIA stupid spring holder.
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rlitman
Well-known member
I got my PH2050 at a flea market for $40. It was ok, I guess.
Not significantly better than the IR I bought at Lowes brand new for $36, which is why I sold it for $40 when I got my CP717.
The reality is that .401 hammers are limited by the .401" shank. There's only so much power you can get out of it. Perhaps the PH3050 is the animal everyone says it is (I have my doubts), but it still isn't going to compare with a .498 hammer like the CP717.
It's like comparing 1/2" drive and 3/4" drive impact guns.
wafrederick
Well-known member
I have a Matco air hammer and only one problem with it: it breaks bits.I broke one bit so far and it was replaced under warranty.It is the MT2816 and it is a beast,out does the old Snap On my father has.I don't use cheap bits in it either,they shatter apart.