Air infiltration around outlets ?

[Blown71X]

This kinda involves heating so i`m posting it in here.
I am just about to pull my hair out trying to stop air from blowing in around my outlet boxes in my shop, To be honest I think I had a "stupid moment" when installing the insulation by worrying more about not letting the insulation touch the outside wall than packing some behind the boxes, it`s all moot at this point I just need some ideas, removing the inside siding is not an option unless it is a last resort as this would be a major undertaking.
This is bad enough that a couple of them actually had condensation on the metal covers tonite (it is 17° out right now) so i`m finally crying foul and asking for ideas as masking tape over them looks like ***

Rick

 

[IDASHO]

Just pull the cover and seal up the box with caulk or expanding foam. That will prevent air transfer from inside the wall to the inside of the home.

 

[mhoffm911]

You can buy foam outlet inserts at hardware stores. They mount under the top plate and do help cut down on drafts (I have them on every exterior outlet in my house). I would then caulk around the outlet cover. If there is a knockout plate in the back of the outlet, you could probably put a tube of expanding foam in there and try to seal it.

Link below for outlet inserts:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03013317000P?keyword=foam+outlet

 

[mhoffm911]

 

[Abodyracer]

Just pull the cover and seal up the box with caulk .

I was thinking the same thing. Just caulk around the wire where it enters the box. I would also caulk around the perimiter of the box between the box and the drywall. Use the insullating seals that mhoffm911 talks about as well.

 

[larry4406]

On new construction, our insulation company would take expanding foam and apply it to the outside perimeter off the outlet boxes. That said, if the Frost King gaskets don't work, I would think you could kill the power to the outlet, remove the trim plate and plug/switch, and then apply foam through the box openings to the back side of the box as well as through the drywall to box gap. I have never tried this, but seems reasonable.