Air line for air compressor

[ejm1961Tbird]

I currently have a small 2 car garage. I plan to buy this Quincy air compressor:
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-2V41C60VC-Air-Compressor/p855.html

My question is about running the air line. I do not need multiple drops, a single air source will do. What is the minimum (but appropriate) way to run the air line? Will this do? Run line from compressor up garage wall, then across garage over to welding table, going slightly downhill along the way. Try to make this at least 25 feet of line. Run line through a Motorguard air filter, then into the back of my plasma cutter. I will also have a second filter that screws into the back of the plasma cutter. Will this get the job done? Thanks.

 

[b1ghwx]

Your most important consideration is to have as large a supply line as possible - at least 1/2"

 

[Zrexxer]

Your plan is sound but you have to have some place for the water to go other than into your Motorgard to saturate the element. Having some kind of a drain leg with a valve on it at the end of the run will be necessary.

 

[ejm1961Tbird]

That makes sense, thanks. I have seen several good airline layouts on the web, but they seem needlessly complex for a small one-man shop.

 

[ejm1961Tbird]

Anybody using the RapidAir 1/2" Master kit?
https://m.northerntool.com/northerntool/product/detail.do?itemId=490500

My only concern is that it is rated to 150 psi and the compressor I plan to buy can make 175 psi.

 

[ejm1961Tbird]

Here is a helpful diagram:
https://www.tptools.com/tech-metal-piping.dlp

 

[Mandres]

Thanks, I've been looking for a copy of that diagram. That seems like a pretty solid approach for keeping moisture under control. Hell of a lot of soldering if you go with copper though.

 

[Grounded Ken]

Just because the compressor can make 175 psi doesn't mean you have to run 175 psi. The pressure switch can be adjusted down, the instructions are usually under the pressure switch cover. And as a byproduct of running the pressure you will get more usable cfm, and cause less wear and tear on the motor and the compressor. Even lower electric bills, cause you're not drawing as many amps. Not that you'll probably ever notice. I know I'll get the usual "the higher the pressure, the more air you get" response. So to that before it starts, look up "Boyles Law", it's physics, you can have pressure or you can have volume, you can't have both, well, with a lot of money and horsepower, but that's a different compressor.
The point is, if you have to have the pressure it is there, just turn it up and run directly off the tank bypassing the 150 psi line. I don't know too many machines that need 175 psi. A lot of people run it at the max end up putting a regulator in line to turn it down before the tool that is being used. A waste of energy and machinery.

 

[rodm1]

For a small system like yours with maybe 2 drops. You could just use 1/2 air hose then once you have the layout you won't then hard line it.

I have one drop, I just tie wrapped the air hose to the joist to get a feel of what i need. Then plan on hard piping it in someday adding drops on each side of door.

 

[EOC_Jason]

What I do is buy a roll of copper from HD (I think it's 10-15') and semi-uncoil it to run from the compressor to the wall (and just use flare fittings). It kind of looks like the coil you would see on a moonshine still.. lol... This gives you a lot of length for the air to cool down in a small amount of space. Along the wall I run black pipe. It's best to put a drain leg at the end of the run near your equipment because the piping will cool the air as it travels.

You may only think you *need* one drop, but put at least two or three, you will be glad you did. I usually have a fitting by the compressor, then one by each workspace. Also the best thing since sliced bread is getting a retractable hose reel... Soooo handy...