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Air Line Layout - Guidance Needed!

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
No expert.....I've never seen galvanized pipe used for air lines....always black pipe. If I recall there may be an issue with the galvanize coming loose an getting into your air lines and tools......or something like that.
 
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coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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6,243
Location
Belpre, Ohio
All of my air lines are black iron, in between, and in both buildings. With that said, there are miles of galvanized air lines at the plant I work at and that includes the instrument air lines. None of the IE's I've asked know of any incidents where the galvanized air lines have cause any problems with the instrumentation which is kind of critical that it works correctly in a petrochemical plant.
 

FunkyfullWidth

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Oct 3, 2011
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1,238
Location
Three Rivers, ma
I'd rather duct tape a bunch of straws together for an air line system then use pvc or pex. Have you considered a rapid air set up. When I get my new compressor up and running that's what i'll be doing. I'm gonna get two master kits for 3/4" and run a loop. It doesn't get much easier then that. Easy to change in the future as well. Near my benches and work areas i'll drop it to black pipe for piece of mind (I tend to get rambunctious.) For a building your size i'd step up to 3/4 as well.
 

1grnlwn

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Jan 19, 2012
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186
Location
Central Illinois
Milton design is same as what I was taught in school 30 years ago. Only thing that has changes is people who think they are smarter than 100 years of success. I am dreading setting up my system because of costs and pia. I am leaning to iron pipe which assures I will only have to do it once. Plus my shop is kind of purdy and a bunch of black pipe will detract from purdyness.
 

Oldmaple

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Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
9
Location
West Michigan
What about an air line between 2 buildings? I have one building with air and am building another about 12 feet away. I could bury a line but am worried about condensation without any ability to drain it. I could go along the fence that will connect the 2 buildings. Or am I just being cheap and should just go buy another compressor. Hmmm, tool shopping, sounds pretty good.
 

mpire

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Nov 21, 2008
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Florida
I know its expensive, but other than that, is there anything wrong with good old fashioned copper with sweat connections?
 
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coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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6,243
Location
Belpre, Ohio
What about an air line between 2 buildings? I have one building with air and am building another about 12 feet away. I could bury a line but am worried about condensation without any ability to drain it. I could go along the fence that will connect the 2 buildings. Or am I just being cheap and should just go buy another compressor. Hmmm, tool shopping, sounds pretty good.

Answer: Pipe bridge. Also makes a nice cable tray for internet and cable between the buildings. I have a compressor in both buildings and have it set up to valve them in together for big jobs, or if one will be down for maintenance, the other compressor can supply air to the adjacent building.
 

soj

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Dec 3, 2007
Messages
729
Location
North Georgia
I'd rather duct tape a bunch of straws together for an air line system then use pvc or pex. Have you considered a rapid air set up. When I get my new compressor up and running that's what i'll be doing. I'm gonna get two master kits for 3/4" and run a loop. It doesn't get much easier then that. Easy to change in the future as well. Near my benches and work areas i'll drop it to black pipe for piece of mind (I tend to get rambunctious.) For a building your size i'd step up to 3/4 as well.

WOW! A new idea for air lines! You could use flex straws for elbows. Now we can argue whether to use cheep duct tape or Gorilla Tape. :dunno:

On a serious note... I used 3/4" Rapid Air Max Line in a loop. Build thread here.
-jp
 

soj

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Dec 3, 2007
Messages
729
Location
North Georgia
After doing my shop in black pipe, I just read these tips from Milton

Apparently Milton recommends Galvanized.

Apparently I violated 4 out of 5 of there recommendations.

https://www.miltonindustries.com/tech-tips---msds-info.html

I have always heard the case against galvanized for air or gas lines was the zinc flaking off inside. For gas I can see where it will never rust inside because of the lack of oxygen, so that use is fine. But air lines will have at least moisture, if not water, so there WILL be rust. There should always be a water separator/filter at point of use so rust or zinc flakes will be caught. If I was going to use threaded pipe, it would be galvanized.
-jp
 

dave67fd

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Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
872
Location
Southern NH
My system is also done with black iron. Cheap, easy and tough. If you don't have the threading tools most HD's will cut and thread for you.
Unless your doing high end spraying you don't need a high tech system.

Don't waste money on regulators at every drop. You can put quick connect fittings on one regulator and move it around if you need specific PSI requirements for what your working on.

Install an automatic drain on your tank, have a quality regulator/filter, oil and desicant system and blow the system down regularly and depending on how often you use the system. If you have a dryer even the better and your done.
I sloped my system but didn't take my drops from the upper section of pipe as typically recommended. As mentioned I wanted to keep it relatively simple. I don't do any spraying and my tools aren't high end but I keep them well lubricated. I haven't had any moisture issues, leaks or failures.

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CNGsaves

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
^ ^ Simple way to make above simple black pipe steel airline better . . .
. . . . make those ball valves WITH RELIEF . . . little thumbscrew.

Just open up thumbscrew before using that drop so any water or debris will blow out. Then attach your quick connect and throw valve to on position.
 

dave67fd

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Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
872
Location
Southern NH
^ ^ I have 1/4" mini brass ball valves going in in place of the plugs so I can do just that.
The relief type valve sounds like a good Idea as well. I have one more drop I haven't finished yet. Maybe I'll try one out there.
 

bigred292

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2010
Messages
377
Location
Rhode Island
My system is also done with black iron. Cheap, easy and tough. If you don't have the threading tools most HD's will cut and thread for you.
Unless your doing high end spraying you don't need a high tech system.

Don't waste money on regulators at every drop. You can put quick connect fittings on one regulator and move it around if you need specific PSI requirements for what your working on.

Install an automatic drain on your tank, have a quality regulator/filter, oil and desicant system and blow the system down regularly and depending on how often you use the system. If you have a dryer even the better and your done.
I sloped my system but didn't take my drops from the upper section of pipe as typically recommended. As mentioned I wanted to keep it relatively simple. I don't do any spraying and my tools aren't high end but I keep them well lubricated. I haven't had any moisture issues, leaks or failures.

DSC01573.jpg


DSC01572.jpg


DSC02175_zps5ec7174f.jpg
Could you please tell me what kind of pipe that is that connects your reel to the iron pipe- also where to look for it
 
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