Air-Line plumbing

[MackMan]

I know the theories of air line plumbing get discussed pretty often. The garage I recently purchased is already plumbed with copper air-line however the compressor is not hooked up to the hard lines. Apparently there used to be an outdoor compressor, and that died. The PO got an 80 gallon Kobalt compressor but never hooked it up to the buildings hard-lines. Basically I'm looking for the best way to get this set up. I have thought of a (very) temporary solution of just running some rubber hose into the nearest quick connect fitting, but want to get something more permanent soon. I've attached pictures of the "system". I know it's not perfect by GJ standards, but it's there and I don't have time or $ to completely re-engineer it right now. I do notice there are no drains anywhere in the system so I may need to figure out a way to add some.

That is a 6' bench for reference.

Thoughts?

 

[machine_punk]

I am planning to hard-plumb my shop with copper tubing. I plan to use 3/4" for the run and 1/2" for the drops.

So, I am going to terminate the copper with a NPT pipe fitting near the compressor. Then, I will have a hydraulic hose made up with the correct NPT fittings for the compressor and the copper pipe. They can make any length and diameter you need, with nearly any fitting you can imagine. Just look for your local hydraulic line shop...nearly every city has one. I suspect I'll need a quick disconnect for one end of that. I've got a couple of ideas for that, but if they don't work out, I'll use a regular quick disconnect.

It is vital that you have a 'soft' connection between your hard plumbing and your constantly vibrating compressor.

Kev

 

[CNGsaves]

Great potential and you've got some of "working parts" to make a good system.

. . . . But, man that prior owner thought that airlines should be laid out like electrical !!

I'd recommend 1/2" air hose as "jerry rig" to make it work right now to connect compressor to airline, if that is what you need. Or heck, you could use temporary 1/2" air hose through water drain first, then connects to your hose reel.

Long-term you should just start with "clean slate" and virtually tear down & start over with re-design of entire airline system with mainline runs up high on wall and sloping properly so your drops and water drains all collect moisture early & discharge it. Connect the Kobalt 80 gal compressor to airline system with flexible hose like 3/4" hydraulic from Tractor Supply. Decide how you are going to use the shop and layout the airline system accordingly. Thus, you'll want demands for driest air near END of airline system, like sandblast cabinet. Would be good time to implement your copper pipe-sweating skills!! Good luck.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

Blk threaded steel is nice and cheap .

But I'd recommend copper, and if you spend a extra few bucks on a roll of soft drawn 1/2" tubing its easy to run and you dont have to worry about any joints.

I honestly have just a HF hose real , and this thing is pretty awesome .

One of the HF gems IMO


http://www.flickr.com/photos/106058919@N08/11101738293/ by dburek85

 

[Spareparts]

You have the begining of a good system, Picture #7 should be the drop for your drain leg. You can have a quick coupling a little higher and then a drop leg with a ball valve high enough off the floor to put a bucket under to drain it. Straighten the line up and keep it high and with a gradual slope to the drain, install "T's" where ever you want a drop, "T's" pointing up with street els to make the drops coming down the walls. You can pick up Hyd Hose at TSC or Orschlin Farm Supply a lot cheaper than at a hose shop. A short hose with male pipe thread and a swivel adapter will hook the hose to your air line. You have already have most of the parts to do this right, just have to rearrange it correctly. Remember any low spot in the system will accumulate moisture, make the system put the moisture where you want it. Drain the compressor regularly, raise the compressor a little higher to make it easier to get to the drain. I put a street ell on my drain and a short piece of pipe with another ell and the drain petcock that was on the compressor, made it a lot more convient to drain. The only problem is "Can you SWEAT Copper?????. Good Luck

 

[coljar]

If you do know how to sweat copper, the quick fix would be to cut and add some drop legs as needed and put that compressor back out where that other one was at, if it was in a safe place out of the weather. I don't like listening to loud compressors kicking on and off. I started my air line project yesterday in my new garage. It starts with 3/4" black iron at the tank in the back room (includes SS flex line) and runs for about 35 ft. before reducing to 1/2". Drop legs are included along with 2 Reelcraft hose reels, but I didn't go overboard with too many stations. The pipe is in 10 ft. joints and I put a "tee" with a pipe plug in case I want a station there at a later date. I might add that all of the pipe and fittings are Made In USA, except the quarter turn valves that are made in Italy.

 

[MackMan]

OK, I'll bite, what in the world is this about SWEATing copper?

And I don't really want to put it back outside, There's no shelter in this area, and I'd have to add an outlet.

 

[CTester]

Looks like you have grey (underground) 12 wire powering that motor, - is that right? Isn't that a two stage?

The 6950 is a good stand alone filter, commonly used as a part to 3 stage filter systems w/regulator adapter. But that's just a filter and not a dryer. Your set up should be dependent upon your needs.

It's really not about theories. It's only a theory if it hasn't been proven over and over again. Just sayin.

What do you plan to do with it?

 

[coljar]

OK, I'll bite, what in the world is this about SWEATing copper?

And I don't really want to put it back outside, There's no shelter in this area, and I'd have to add an outlet.

Check it out on You Tube, but this might not be the project to learn on. I tell people it easy, but I've probably done a couple of miles of potable water lines through the years.

 

[MackMan]

Looks like you have grey (underground) 12 wire powering that motor, - is that right? Isn't that a two stage?

The 6950 is a good stand alone filter, commonly used as a part to 3 stage filter systems w/regulator adapter. But that's just a filter and not a dryer. Your set up should be dependent upon your needs.

It's really not about theories. It's only a theory if it hasn't been proven over and over again. Just sayin.

What do you plan to do with it?

It's a "high flow" single stage from what I have found. Kobalt doesn't have this model anymore so I can't find any info on it, other than a few people on here have a similar one.

The only thing I have ever used a compressor for is putting air in tires and an impact wrench. But then I've only ever had a 30 gallon oil-less 120v Craftsman. I do have the tire changer now with the garage and that has a high pressure mode for seating the bead. As far as other tools or items, I have thought a blast cabinet would be nice, but I'm honestly not sure I'll have the space for one when all is said and done. I've got to fit 3 cars in here, plus leave the lift bay open for servicing other vehicles.

Check it out on You Tube, but this might not be the project to learn on. I tell people it easy, but I've probably done a couple of miles of potable water lines through the years.

OK, just another term for soldering the lines it seems? It's not something I've done, but something I'm going to be learning. My dad has done it plenty, and parents are planning to come up shortlyl after Christmas so that might be a learning opportunity... of course they are coming up to see the baby that we're expecting in a couple of weeks so there may not be an abundance of garage time!

 

[CNGsaves]

Good luck with the baby - - - that WILL change your life for sure.

Recommend that you brainstorm how you will use the shop and determine layout for where you'll want drops (ie for bench, tire machine, sand blaster, lift, hose reels, etc). Sketch-up is free software that lots of GJer's have used.

Develop your plan and hit the ground running with your Dad.
With his help, teardown & rebuild will go quick & you'll learn to sweat copper joints.

An educational thread is one by Strouty where guru MTW describes best methods to capture water.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214394&highlight=airline

 

[MackMan]

Good luck with the baby - - - that WILL change your life for sure.

Recommend that you brainstorm how you will use the shop and determine layout for where you'll want drops (ie for bench, tire machine, sand blaster, lift, hose reels, etc). Sketch-up is free software that lots of GJer's have used.

Develop your plan and hit the ground running with your Dad.
With his help, teardown & rebuild will go quick & you'll learn to sweat copper joints.

An educational thread is one by Strouty where guru MTW describes best methods to capture water.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214394&highlight=airline

Thanks for the note and info.

Won't be doing any major work when my parents visit, Right now just getting everything hooked up will be a start, once I've used it for a while I'll see if I want to revise where the drops are, though I think it would be good to add some drains at least. Right now I think the bottom of the compressor is still the low-point in the system. Strange that there is a filter on the compressor but it's just plugged.

Someone said that's a filter not a drier, what does it filter? Is it ok to be mounted right off the compressor like that? I remember people have said that driers should be at least 25' from the compressor.

 

[CTester]

Thanks for the note and info.


Someone said that's a filter not a drier, what does it filter?

That someone was me. The 6950 is a 5 micron filter. Sure water will fill the bowl, but only after it's been condensed. It won't stop the vapor unfortunately. This unit at the current position is almost worthless IMO. It'll remove particles and oil in such, but once it's soaked, it's done and it will happen the first time the motor starts while your using it.

Unless you plan on purchasing a cooler and dryer all you'll have there is a big fancy squirt bottle lol. Really! There's a way around sinking all that cash into a system.

What's cost efficient and really the best way to get rid of 90% of the vapor that things going to put out (which going to be quite bit, being a single stage/80gal) is to run strait up and back down to station one. -Even if you have just one station. Done correctly, you'll have very little vapor making it past your first drop. In fact, most will remain in the tank. That's how fast Black pipe condenses gases (vapor) to solid (H2O).

Copper only helps until it heats up, then it will work against you thru main line since it heats up and stays that way during use. Copper has it's good points, but only if it's incorporated correctly within the system. You want/need cool dry air to get the most from your tools. You also need clean air for longevity. To use copper, you would have to remove the heat and vapor out of the system first before it enters main line. Otherwise you going to be maxing out your filtration systems and spending allot of time on servicing.

A way that's simple and one that has worked for decades,- without the need for coolers/dryers is to let it convert/condense within steel pipe and work most of its way out before carrying on to the first stations filtration set up, if any.

Strait up and down, like this or similar works great. Then your left with so little to deal with, it's easily filtered out before the tool with the least amount of pressure loss.

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[MackMan]

Thanks, that up and down loop seems easy enough. Will have to look into that. What is the minimum vertical rise needed to achieve this? I will need to work with pre-threaded sections as I don't have the ability to thread the pipe at the moment.

Again until I get some more equipment, I'm a "lightweight" user. With my previous set-up I never left the compressor on auto. If I was going to use air tools or air up tires I'd run the compressor and go back inside, wait till it tripped off, then turn off the compressor and work until I no longer had enough pressure (think that's only happened to me once with the 30gal), then turn it on and go inside... but a oil-less compressor in a 25x25 garage is too dang loud to work with it running. I was figuring on running the 80 gal the same way (with a lot longer times between running it) but it is not nearly so objectionable volume-wise.

 

[CTester]

Thanks, that up and down loop seems easy enough. Will have to look into that. What is the minimum vertical rise needed to achieve this? I will need to work with pre-threaded sections as I don't have the ability to thread the pipe at the moment.

Again until I get some more equipment, I'm a "lightweight" user. With my previous set-up I never left the compressor on auto. If I was going to use air tools or air up tires I'd run the compressor and go back inside, wait till it tripped off, then turn off the compressor and work until I no longer had enough pressure (think that's only happened to me once with the 30gal), then turn it on and go inside... but a oil-less compressor in a 25x25 garage is too dang loud to work with it running. I was figuring on running the 80 gal the same way (with a lot longer times between running it) but it is not nearly so objectionable volume-wise.

No Problem, - yea I got away from oil-less long ago. Well almost, I still have a few old Porter Cable pancakes I use once in awhile. They come in handy tho.

So, being a single stage, your max is 135psi correct ? Best stuff to use on the threads is Locktite; 567, 545, or 569. Those are anaerobic adhesives. If you like dope, -that Harveys at Home Depot works a little better than Rectorseal 5 IMO, it's a real good mix. If the threads get botched up, you'll either need a new piece or use stuff called "Expando". It's the best in high pressure pipe thread repair. It won't leak, but it can be a mother getting apart again. Not impossible tho.

Btw- Have you ever wondered what that pre-applied orange stuff is, - that you find on brass fittings within the industry? If you have, it's called Vibra-Orange and it's made by Locktite. It's about 100 bucks for 1 quart or so lol. Yea, more than you'll ever need, - it's not easy finding a deal on that stuff. If you do, capitalize...

If you need to incorporate unions, -for air, you'll need SS Unions as they come with a vinyl washer/inserts and won't leak on yuh.

If you have a 1/2 out bushing, I suggest bumping it up to 3/4 to maintain your compressor scfm spec. Those are special bushings at the compressor w/silicon o-ring (s). I can't tell what you have, looks like 1/2".

Run your pipe as high as you want your header. 7-8' or so. No additional riser at the header for this one. Since your 90 up top(how ever you configure it) will be a heavy transitioning point from vapor to water.. That liquid should dump toward station one clearing the header. Make your riser just before your filter set up, - right before if possible. You can just cap the header up top, until your ready to further your run for other stations in the future.

Just doing that will make it easy to collect most of moisture and make it easy to purge from the system.

 

[Krodad]

Great explanation on the black pipe and doing an up & down run! I'm going to incorporate that into my system.

So to hijack just a little bit here...

If doing what was suggested with the black pipe, would there be any advantage to adding another tank at some point after the drop pipe? I have an extra tank, and was thinking that in theory, the tank downline would allow the air to expand again and cool, therefore dropping out more moisture? I know that if it was kept at full pressure, it probably would not make a difference, but if it's at a lower line pressure than the main tank, it might allow for expansion to a lower pressure (say the main tank is at 150psi but the second tank is kept at 90psi) therefore cooling. Would also give a little more reserve capacity as a bonus.

What do you think?

 

[MackMan]

No Problem, - yea I got away from oil-less long ago. Well almost, I still have a few old Porter Cable pancakes I use once in awhile. They come in handy tho.

So, being a single stage, your max is 135psi correct ? Best stuff to use on the threads is Locktite; 567, 545, or 569. Those are anaerobic adhesives. If you like dope, -that Harveys at Home Depot works a little better than Rectorseal 5 IMO, it's a real good mix. If the threads get botched up, you'll either need a new piece or use stuff called "Expando". It's the best in high pressure pipe thread repair. It won't leak, but it can be a mother getting apart again. Not impossible tho.

Btw- Have you ever wondered what that pre-applied orange stuff is, - that you find on brass fittings within the industry? If you have, it's called Vibra-Orange and it's made by Locktite. It's about 100 bucks for 1 quart or so lol. Yea, more than you'll ever need, - it's not easy finding a deal on that stuff. If you do, capitalize...

If you need to incorporate unions, -for air, you'll need SS Unions as they come with a vinyl washer/inserts and won't leak on yuh.

If you have a 1/2 out bushing, I suggest bumping it up to 3/4 to maintain your compressor scfm spec. Those are special bushings at the compressor w/silicon o-ring (s). I can't tell what you have, looks like 1/2".

Run your pipe as high as you want your header. 7-8' or so. No additional riser at the header for this one. Since your 90 up top(how ever you configure it) will be a heavy transitioning point from vapor to water.. That liquid should dump toward station one clearing the header. Make your riser just before your filter set up, - right before if possible. You can just cap the header up top, until your ready to further your run for other stations in the future.

Just doing that will make it easy to collect most of moisture and make it easy to purge from the system.

Thanks for the write up. My compressor says 155psi on the side, I haven't aired it up to see yet.

I need a quick update on the terminoligy, as far as what's the header, and riser here? can you label the portions in the pictures you posted?

Thanks!

 

[J Persons]

Go to http://www.tptools.com/ they have everything you need to get your compressor up and running. They also have a diagram on how to plumb your air lines. Tractor Supply has 3/4" hydraulic hose that can be used to plumb you compressor into you air line system, a 3' length of 3/4" is only about $27.00, TP Tools recommends black iron for the piping, they also have a diagram in their free catalog on how to set up your piping.

I went up about 5' with my main line, this tends to allow moisture to drop back down into the tank and minimizes some of the moisture in the lines. I get very little moisture at the water separators and I live in a very humid climate

Always have a main shutoff at the compressor, and use it when not in the shop.

 

[RickP]

I will need to work with pre-threaded sections as I don't have the ability to thread the pipe at the moment.

If you buy black pipe at Home Depot, you can get them to cut and thread it for you in the lengths you need. They also have some pre-made standard lengths.

 

[sberry]

J,,, that is good, very simple. A buy should pretty much be anle to figure out a reasonable system for a small garage from ready mades.

Right now just getting everything hooked up will be a start, once I've used it for a while I'll see if I want to revise where the drops are, though I think it would be good to add some drains at least.

This is good advice to you.

 

[CTester]

Thanks for the write up. My compressor says 155psi on the side, I haven't aired it up to see yet.

I need a quick update on the terminoligy, as far as what's the header, and riser here? can you label the portions in the pictures you posted?

Thanks!

No problem, -

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[CTester]

Great explanation on the black pipe and doing an up & down run! I'm going to incorporate that into my system.

So to hijack just a little bit here...

If doing what was suggested with the black pipe, would there be any advantage to adding another tank at some point after the drop pipe? I have an extra tank, and was thinking that in theory, the tank downline would allow the air to expand again and cool, therefore dropping out more moisture? I know that if it was kept at full pressure, it probably would not make a difference, but if it's at a lower line pressure than the main tank, it might allow for expansion to a lower pressure (say the main tank is at 150psi but the second tank is kept at 90psi) therefore cooling. Would also give a little more reserve capacity as a bonus.

What do you think?

Right. the further downstream the better. I would work it in between the second and third drop (depending upon how far apart everything is). If it's a good spread between 1 and 2, -anywhere after 2 would be ideal. The moisture won't be a worry at that point w/black Iron.

An extra tank (reservoir) can be very useful. Specially when running a hog DA or Blaster.

Yea, there should be some good diagrams out there. If anyone can post one up, I'll try to explain any questions you may have. If you want.

 

[Krodad]

Yeah, I was thinking maybe even at the end of the line which would also be where my hookup is for spray guns. This would be 35' as the crow flies, but at least two drops before, and those drops could be 14' high, up and down if I want, so lots and lots of black pipe to drop out moisture even before the tank. Then I would probably regulate into that tank of maybe even a max of 60 psi most of the time...further expanding and cooling due to the pressure drop.
Of course I'm going to use as large diameter pipe for the runs as I think is practical due to the distance.

Thanks so much for the advice!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[MackMan]

OK, lets see if I've got this.

From my compressor, I will go out (with a soft line) and go straight up between 5-8', then come straight back down to something a little below the building lines that I'm plumbing into, put a riser into the main line with the filter between the riser and the main line.

Does that sound right?

Thanks!

 

[J Persons]

This is how I did mine for the blast cabinet. It also has another water separator mounted at the blast cabinet. There is 25' of pipe between the compressor and the drop. The 25' length helps the air charge cool so the water vapor will drop out.

 

[sberry]

There is no reason to keep an extra tank at anything but system pressure. I got 2 comps and a tank, the backup/demand comp kicks in just below the kick of the main. With a lot of tank it rarely runs and even turned the breaker off.

I do have 3/4 lines on the main but I have a large shop with SOME larger pieces, about a class above an automotive shop. The only disagreement I have is about the actual need for 3/4 for volume reasons. No offense intended but these comps are small, they get winded fast enough thru a 3/8 hose, aint the line is too small but a sander uses more air than it makes and 40 ft is different than 200, its even vastly different than 100. The tool itself, the supply hose, the connectors contribute to drop, a casting bur in a 3/4 elbow doesn't help but especially up stream of the regulator doesn't mean a pinch a **** at 15 cfm.

Having said that,,, I clean them too just out of habit, there is no reason not to, doesn't cost a guy much doing his own. In his home garage will never realize the benefit in his lifetime.

 

[sberry]

J, again simple with basic parts and I can see you are just starting. When things change is easy to flip all that stuff around and fit it in to gain the wall space back. To me this is the poster case for what a starter air layout should look like. All super simple pieces with very little waste all common pieces easily re used. Nice job, about as good as any I have seen here.

There may ba a couple technical things about drying air here but the principle of KISS is spot on.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If you buy black pipe at Home Depot, you can get them to cut and thread it for you in the lengths you need. They also have some pre-made standard lengths.

Good luck with THAT. I have the experience and all the tools needed for pipe, but decided to try this route. The guy there could not hit his *** with both hands. It was painful to watch. I took the rest of the pipe home and have been hand threading it myself. Besides, it is easier to custom fit exact lengths this way.

 

[ears]

I'm not seeing much wrong with what you have. You need a drain on the far end. A tee with a valve coming off the bottom.

The first stretch with the disconnects cut the pipe rotate it and sweat it together with a coupler so they face upwards.

You need a filter drier. I'd mount it at the open end you have. An inverted U is a good idea before it to shed some heat. Stick with copper it's a much better thermal conductor. When you figure in fitting prices and hassle and it's not really more expensive.

A piece of hydraulic hose from the compressor to the pipe and you're done.

 

[CTester]

This is how I did mine for the blast cabinet. It also has another water separator mounted at the blast cabinet. There is 25' of pipe between the compressor and the drop. The 25' length helps the air charge cool so the water vapor will drop out.

I like that set up. The double riser @ the last leg. I bet the filters don't require much maintenance. Where does most your moisture collect; the majority still remain in the tank ?

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Lots of great things that J has done with his airline system in post # 25 requoted above.

They include:
. . . . mainline up high of black pipe steel
. . . . drop first goes UP, then down
. . . . union to allow easy disconnect of drop
. . . . ball shutoff valve to maintenence the seperator/filter
. . . . near end of line is blast cabinet (ie requiring dry air)

 

[CTester]

I agree. I prefer 3/4" over 1/2", full flow FRL's and a jumbo Desiccant bowl, but his piping layout is perfect. From what I can see anyway.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I see that people are using a hydraulic line for a vibration isolator from tank to piping. That is all well and good until you examine the inside diameter of the hose relative to the inside diameter of your piping. What I did today was cut a 3/4 x 6 ****** in half, chuck it into the lathe, and machine barbs into the smooth outer surface on each piece. I have obtained a piece of 1" air hose with a 300 lb rating, and will be using that as an isolator hose, attached with dual worm clamps. Not classy, but there will be no restriction there as the ID of the isolator hose is as large as the OD of the hard piping.

 

[J Persons]

I like that set up. The double riser @ the last leg. I bet the filters don't require much maintenance. Where does most your moisture collect; the majority still remain in the tank ?

Most of the moisture stays in the tank, but I still get some at the drain at the end of the main line. The photo is of just the blast cabinet drop. I have five other drops in the main part of the shop, including one with a 1/2" coalescing filter for when I build my power coating station.
I'm thinking about building a desiccant filter to be installed at the compressor, but I get so little moisture at the drops I don't know if it would be worth it.

 

[coljar]

Does anyone have an automatic blow-down on their tank. TP Tools has the electric timer solenoid ones on sale for $79, so I ordered one in, but haven't had time to put it on.

 

[CTester]

I see that people are using a hydraulic line for a vibration isolator from tank to piping. That is all well and good until you examine the inside diameter of the hose relative to the inside diameter of your piping. What I did today was cut a 3/4 x 6 ****** in half, chuck it into the lathe, and machine barbs into the smooth outer surface on each piece. I have obtained a piece of 1" air hose with a 300 lb rating, and will be using that as an isolator hose, attached with dual worm clamps. Not classy, but there will be no restriction there as the ID of the isolator hose is as large as the OD of the hard piping.

You haven't acquired a crimper yet lol. . Yea , I went awhile before picking one up. Wished I would have much sooner than I did. Works surprisingly well every time..- So far anyway.

I'm not sure that I have a die for 1" with this one, - I think it's 7/8?. Hell, I'll go look.... Nope 15/16 is Max ID of hose Ferrules.


____________________________________

Yea, I know where your coming from as far as a good damper line. You have to aware of exactly what your getting. I went with a valve and instrument company for that one. Using a two footer that spec'ed @ 3/4" ID. Actually turned out to be a little better @ 13/16 ID.

 

[CTester]

Most of the moisture stays in the tank, but I still get some at the drain at the end of the main line. The photo is of just the blast cabinet drop. I have five other drops in the main part of the shop, including one with a 1/2" coalescing filter for when I build my power coating station.
I'm thinking about building a desiccant filter to be installed at the compressor, but I get so little moisture at the drops I don't know if it would be worth it.

Yea, it really wouldn't be worth it. You would invest to much your time regenerating the desiccant media. I've seen guys do that, - right off the compressor with say an RTI two stage or Devilbiss CT30 series which uses bagged media for longevity and they can just make it through one paint job (small car). Then your down unless you have other packs on standby.

Yea, I'd leave alone unless you feel the need to be punished lol.

 

[nutcracker]

Does anyone have an automatic blow-down on their tank. TP Tools has the electric timer solenoid ones on sale for $79, so I ordered one in, but haven't had time to put it on.

I have one , Electic dries the tank every 5 minutes.

 

[CTester]

OK, lets see if I've got this.

From my compressor, I will go out (with a soft line) and go straight up between 5-8', then come straight back down to something a little below the building lines that I'm plumbing into, put a riser into the main line with the filter between the riser and the main line.

Does that sound right?

Thanks!

You can. Yes, a correctly sized flexible line for dampering. Mann, I seen a good diagram at this site, - with colors even lol. Sorry, I can't find it now.

Always filter as close to your air tools hose connection if possible. In most cases the filter system is as close as it can be to the outlet (whether a hose couple or stationary connect). The big Milton 1/2 couplers are made to be stationary and at the end of the run. Your station bleed off is before the filters or couplers which ever the case may be. You should never stagger or incorporate filters into main line(header) in MOST cases.

Main line risers can be at each station if you prefer. Although it's better to use just one main line riser at the last, most important station, if you will.

The final station should be for your most air consuming stuff ie, blast, da or whatnot. When meeting the demands for heavy air requirements, the compressor is often working harder then usual and you can get caught with vapor still condensing in main line.

So station one and two or how many you might have should be riser free so that the liquid can drop in to their clean-outs or drain legs rather. That way your not pushing water all the way thru header (mainline). Most of that vapor will condense in this situation before station two very quickly under these conditions.

You should only riser at the start of station 1,2 and so on off the drain-leg at a preferred elevation.

That's just my opinion of how it should be done.

 

[MackMan]

Well for now the station closest to the compressor is the one that's going to be used most frequently, and the station farthest from the compressor will be used the least, probably only for airing up tires.

High pressure air for bead seating tires will be at station 2 (currently have 4 stations, plus 2 outlets on the compressor itself.)

You can. Yes, a correctly sized flexible line for dampering. Mann, I seen a good diagram at this site, - with colors even lol. Sorry, I can't find it now.

Always filter as close to your air tools hose connection if possible. In most cases the filter system is as close as it can be to the outlet (whether a hose couple or stationary connect). The big Milton 1/2 couplers are made to be stationary and at the end of the run. Your station bleed off is before the filters or couplers which ever the case may be. You should never stagger or incorporate filters into main line(header) in MOST cases.

Main line risers can be at each station if you prefer. Although it's better to use just one main line riser at the last, most important station, if you will.

The final station should be for your most air consuming stuff ie, blast, da or whatnot. When meeting the demands for heavy air requirements, the compressor is often working harder then usual and you can get caught with vapor still condensing in main line.

So station one and two or how many you might have should be riser free so that the liquid can drop in to their clean-outs or drain legs rather. That way your not pushing water all the way thru header (mainline). Most of that vapor will condense in this situation before station two very quickly under these conditions.

You should only riser at the start of station 1,2 and so on off the drain-leg at a preferred elevation.

That's just my opinion of how it should be done.